Brake Pads? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

csnow · #16 06-04-2002, 12:40 PM

That is an excellent result, from what I have seen published.
My crude timing shows about the same 0-60 for the manual. My motor has never had any internal work on it in 190k, so it may be getting tired. I have only had it for about 1 year, so it's always been old to me.

#17 06-06-2002, 11:29 AM

Hey, one more question...sorry to drag this on

...But what is the width of which im safe to stay with my current rotors? I have a Caliper so i can measure it.

Thanks in advance

sjsfiji · #18 02-20-2004, 04:36 PM

CSNOW,

Great post on how to change pads and rotors on a 300E. I'm assuming it would be the same for my '87 260E. Where can I find the C-clamp for pressing on the caliper piston? You didn't mention anything 'bout rebuilding calipers... when is that done and how?

thanks again...

csnow · #19 02-20-2004, 05:00 PM

Wow, that's an old post!

My steps applied to the early model single-piston calipers, like yours. Reading it again, I should mention that MB specifies a special grease for the pad backs. I continue to use the general purpose anti-squeal adhesive paste with good results.

The c-clamp in this case is a garden variety medium sized clamp from any hw store. Not much force involved.

I have not rebuilt a caliper in many years. Just not cost effective given the availability of rebuilt units for reasonable prices. The seals can be replaced without too much trouble for cheap, but if I have to get out the hone, forget it.

git0 · #20 02-20-2004, 06:21 PM

With the help of those on this site I did my very first brake job - incuding replacing the rotors. Incredibly easy - Snow has given good advise.

I bought PBR deluxe brake pads and am very happy with the much reduced amount of brake dust.

I sprayed the bolts on the caliper as well as the set screw on the rotor the night before and they came off real easy. When you remove the discs (rotors) - if you replace the discs - they will hang down by the brake line. Avoid this !!!!! I used a coat hanger (doubled over for added strength) to hold the calipers up while I replaced the rotors (discs) so there was no tension on the brake lines. Snow used a crate which works as well.

Before I compressed the pistons - I removed the lid on the master cylinder as when you compress it it forces the brake fluid up toward the master cylinder. If your master cylinder is real full when you compress the cylinder it can overflow so remove some of the fluid. I also put a rag around the master cylinder to catch any overflow.

I bought a 6" C clamp and using one of the old pads compressed the cylinder. The pad was used to give a fkaf surface against the cylinder. Having done it once, the cylinder compressed very easy and I probably could have just used my large channle lock pliers - oh well. Before you install the pads -use the anti squeel paste @ $1.00 a packet, slid the pads into the calipers. I also used new brake sensors as they are very inexpensive, and closed it up. Much - much easier than I expected.

Go for it.

psfred · #21 02-20-2004, 07:28 PM

The only thing to watch for on these type calipers is making sure the two little "ear" springs are under the caliper and not sticking through. Squeal like deamons if you get that spring in wrong!

Otherwise VERY easy, including rotor changes compared to the earlier cars where you have to repack the front wheel bearings to change the rotors.

I've been told to rough the rotor surface with coarse sandpaper when installing new rotors -- the surface on there can cause the brakes to groan badly at low speeds otherwise.

I got at least 25,000 miles on my pads (OEM) -- don't know when they were installed, I got the car at 166,000 and changed the pads and rotors up front at 191,000. Rears have plenty of pad left.

Reminds be to check the fronts on the 280, too -- had to do the rears last week.

Peter

cbdo · #22 02-21-2004, 08:26 AM

For the benefit of another complete novice: Much difference between the beautifully detailed 124 procedure above and my 560SL?
Many thanks to all-

tower · #23 02-21-2004, 09:16 AM

I have read this thread with a kind of casual interest. Not being a mechanic by trade, but having been exposed to automobiles over my whole 40+ years, a brake job would be considered a low experience required past time (not to snub the beginner thought). Well it just shows what you can learn and digest.

Throughout the reading of this thread, no one has mentioned removing the initial manufacturing/shipping oil from the rotor prior to installation. Is my age showing? Is this no longer a requirement? If so, I've been washing the new rotors with denatured alcohol for no reason!

psfred · #24 02-21-2004, 06:10 PM

No, I guess I just assumed everyone knows to remove the shipping grease (Cosmoline or whatever) on rotors and drums.

Probably a mistake, as I will now here someone complain they couldn't stop and I didn't tell them to remove the stuff.

Peter

csnow · #25 02-23-2004, 09:56 AM

On the protective coating, it depends...

Some of the disks shipping now say right on a big warning label to leave the coating in place. Absent instruction, I would clean it off.

Ferdman · #26 02-23-2004, 10:19 AM

The last set of rotors that I purchased at a MB dealer had a coat of gray primer on the wear surfaces. The Parts personnel advised to simply install the rotors as-is ... no need to remove it with solvent. The brake pads will wear off the primer without any detrimental effect to the brake pads or rotors.