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  #31  
Old 09-29-2018, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Reiner View Post
Regarding the youtube video referenced above (post #28), the fuel distributor used for the "demonstration" is from a K-basic system, and the diaphragm valve springs operate in a manner that is the opposite of those found in the KE fuel distributor, which is the subject of this thread.
Thanks Frank, all these replies have given me more hope. I will be splitting the FD again just to make sure that all the ports are perfectly aligned on the fuel spindle with the FD body as well. I'll find out tomorrow and report.
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  #32  
Old 09-30-2018, 07:31 AM
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KE Jetronic is K with an EHA added. The EHA allows additional control of the fuel mixture, but the principle of getting fuel through the distributor via the center metering valve is the same.
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  #33  
Old 10-06-2018, 10:04 PM
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If you swap the fuel lines over the drivers valve cover the car wont start, just fyi, ive accidently done that that's how I know,
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  #34  
Old 10-10-2018, 03:04 PM
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Cool

Update: I have rerebuilt FD. I kept questioning my rebuild and think that it's 100%. I finally was able to get my helper (better half) to help me for a few minutes. I found that when I initally tried to start the car after the FD rerebuild, that it tried to start. After additional cranks it wouldn't fire at all. I found that by releasing some fuel pressure from the bottom of the FD (through the port pictured, ie. attached) that it would start for a couple of seconds till the fuel pressure built up again. It's definietely an over pressure, I will try to get a pressure reading and update soon. Any advice at this point. I need to know how the fuel pressure is regulated, and if there is a way to adjust or if I have to replace the bosch fuel pressure regulator.
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87 560SL has been sitting ----- fuel problem-20181007_174608.jpg  

Last edited by ArcaicAeronaut; 10-10-2018 at 03:26 PM.
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  #35  
Old 10-10-2018, 05:12 PM
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AA:

1) What is the ambient temperature when trying to start?
2) In the event that you have not done this, use a piece of dowel or other reaching tool to depress the air flow sensor plate while cranking. This will require the cooperation of the aforementioned helper to operate the key switch, while you depress the sensor plate.

From your description above, it seems that there is pressure in the lower chambers of the FD, but not enough in the upper chambers.
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  #36  
Old 10-10-2018, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Reiner View Post
AA:

1) What is the ambient temperature when trying to start?
2) In the event that you have not done this, use a piece of dowel or other reaching tool to depress the air flow sensor plate while cranking. This will require the cooperation of the aforementioned helper to operate the key switch, while you depress the sensor plate.

From your description above, it seems that there is pressure in the lower chambers of the FD, but not enough in the upper chambers.
Temperature was about 65 or 70 degrees in the shop where it's been sitting.
When the afore mentioned helper was cranking the engine I did just that, I worked the sensor plate up and down, with no change, but whenever I bled off some pressure from the port in previous picture, the engine started rigt up and then quickly died. We did this about a dozen times, this is when I realized I had heard something about having too much pressure to enter the top of the FD. Any ideas on that? I'm getting ready to do down and try blowing compressed air down the fuel tank return line to make sure it isn't clogged.
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  #37  
Old 10-10-2018, 08:32 PM
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AA:

The temperature cited is above the cold start injector cut-off temp, so no help there.

If, from sitting a long time, the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) is stuck closed, the pressure in the lower chambers will indeed be too high, causing fuel cut-off.
Loosen the return line fitting on the FPR, and cycle the pumps. If nothing leaks out, the regulator is likely stuck.
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  #38  
Old 10-10-2018, 11:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Reiner View Post
AA:

The temperature cited is above the cold start injector cut-off temp, so no help there.

If, from sitting a long time, the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) is stuck closed, the pressure in the lower chambers will indeed be too high, causing fuel cut-off.
Loosen the return line fitting on the FPR, and cycle the pumps. If nothing leaks out, the regulator is likely stuck.
Okay, this is what I just learned. I broke the fuel return line at the airconditioning hose (why do you cool fuel going back to the tank?)

I took the connections loose at the AC line and tried to blow air back into the tank. I would think that you would be able to do that and hear the air going into the tank etc., but I could not get any air through at 100 psi plus. I took the short fuel return line loose at the AC line that went to the fuel pressure regulator, and ran it into a jar. Voila the car started right up and ran till I shut it off the fuel was filling up the jar! Hurray, now what. Has anyone heard of a return line clogging up like that?

Next, I plan loosening the steel return line st the tank, to try blowing air through it again. I'll report back if I have any luck.

Thanks for the feed back
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  #39  
Old 10-11-2018, 06:19 AM
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Interesting development.
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  #40  
Old 10-11-2018, 01:19 PM
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Can the EHA be adjusted on the KE-Jetronic, and if so how? Thanks for any info.
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  #41  
Old 10-11-2018, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by ArcaicAeronaut View Post
Can the EHA be adjusted on the KE-Jetronic, and if so how? Thanks for any info.

The short answer to the above is: yes. There is a caveat; the internal adjustment of the EHA was intended for use during manufacture, rather than in the field, as it is a calibration adjustment of the EHA itself, as opposed to a mixture adjustment of the overall fuel metering system.
The field mixture adjustment is performed with the screw in the tower located in front of the FD.
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  #42  
Old 10-11-2018, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank Reiner View Post
The short answer to the above is: yes. There is a caveat; the internal adjustment of the EHA was intended for use during manufacture, rather than in the field, as it is a calibration adjustment of the EHA itself, as opposed to a mixture adjustment of the overall fuel metering system.
The field mixture adjustment is performed with the screw in the tower located in front of the FD.
Thanks Frank, so the adjuster is actually on the FD and not on the EHA itself? I'll have to look for it. Any ideas what to use to flush out plugged fuel return line?
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  #43  
Old 10-12-2018, 06:42 AM
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His solution was wire and carb cleaner:

Fuel Distributor leak caused by clogged return line 1983 380sl
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  #44  
Old 10-12-2018, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Hirnbeiss View Post
Yes, thanks for the link, I have actually seen that. That is what got me on the trail. I put some carb cleaner in where I broke the line at the AC hose and at the tank. Could not get air pressure from front to back so tried back to front and some started to come through then replugged. Went back to the front and filled the line up with carb cleaner then added pressure, and nothing, then about 15 seconds later heard it start to spit at the tank connection. Added more carb cleaner and wow, gross, any way that line is clear, it looks like I'm going to have to remove the tank to clean. When I opened the tank exit hose to drain the fuel that I had put in after installing new exit hose, I found the fuel exiting just a trickle. It poured out the first time when I replaced the hose. Means that the exit screen plugged up now, so tank cleaning looks imminent and new screen as well. Wow, and our admin wants to increase ethanol to 15% in gas. Man I hope I'm almost over the hill on this. I have too much to do Thanks for all your input EVERYONE
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