Good morning Guys and Gals,
I've been trying to breathe some life into my dad's old 560SL. It has been sitting about 5-10 years in southern Cal outside. The engine has good spark and runs if I use starting fluid.

What I've done so far is:

Replace fuel relay
Drain old fuel from tank.
Exit hose rotten, so replaced
new fuel pumps (2)
new fuel filter
replaced hose clamps and some lines on fuel pump assembly
checked for leaks

Now I have good fuel pressure to the fuel distributor, but that's as far as the fuel goes. The injector lines remain dry of fuel.
What is my next step before removing and trying to clean rebuild the fuel distributor?

Thanks for your help
Jeff

Do you have good fuel flow from the pumps? Pressure is one thing, but volume is important too.

Does the cold-star injector spray?

Try having someone cranking and go push down the air metering flap in the intake. See if you get fuel. Having sat that long without any attention, you could have a bunch of varnish buildup or corrosion inside the FD. If the FD is the issue, you're probably better off having it sent off for repair and calibration or pulling a known-good unit from a junkyard car.

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

AA:

1) Loosen the injector lines on the top of the fuel distributor (FD).
2) Remove pump relay, bridge pin sockets 7 & 8 so that the pumps run continuously.
3) Press down on air flow sensor plate; does fuel emerge from the loosened lines?

If yes, retighten lines on FD. Loosen lines at injection nozzles; check for flow at nozzles.
If there is flow at the nozzle inlets, the nozzles themselves may be clogged; they contain a fine screen and a check valve.

I suspect you are talking about a cold start injector of some sort, I am not educated on the KJet system yet, but the answer is there is no fuel getting into the intake manifold period, unless I spray starting fluid.

I have seen some people on you tube disassemble this FD, but never have seen the results and have read many say no as far as doing anything with this KJet system. I'm still interested in trying to just clean it up till I can start and move the car. I'd like to hear from anyone if they've had any luck cleaning. If not I would be grateful to have advice on where to send unit.
Thank you

Great spark, but absolutely no fuel to intake manifold, all the injectors and lines are dry. High pressure fuel and flow to the FD, have previously jumper-ed 7&8 that's why I added new fuel pump relay. Fuel pressure and flow are no problem now. Just nothing to the top of the FD (injector lines), the fuel injector lines are dry, no fuel to injectors.

Thanks for your time responding, looking for any suggestions on tuning up the FD (cleaning)

The fuel distributor valve that lets fuel into the distributor is likely stuck , if you take airfilter off and push on airflow meter it should chirp slightly indicating fuel is flowing to injectors if you dont hear chirp , you may get lucky and try to unstick fuel distributor, you need to test fuel system with gauges

I guess I need to find out where and what the airflow meter is. Will research that and get back to you. Thanks!

Yes, there is a cold-start valve. It's up on the front driver's side near the valve cover.

The airflow meter is obvious as day once the air cleaner is removed. Remove the air cleaner cover and look in the hole. The big metal flap is the airflow meter. The airflow of the engine running pulls it down, and its deflection adjusts the fuel rate.

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Okay that just validated what I thought. I jumpered the pins and had the fuel pumps running full time. when I pushed on the plate there was no chirping and however I had some sound of fuel trickling into the manifold. I suspect there is not fuel out of the injector lines, but I will check that next week when I get back from work.
Thank you much for your suggestions. I will update.

This is a good rundown on the basic operation of the system. You just add injectors and the electronically controlled EHA, if applicable.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4fJAfXYxWk&t=9s

The gasoline has likely varnished the inside of the FD making unsuable, or it may have even rusted the inside if the FD if the cast iron version. You can take your chances with finding a good used one around $300 (make sure to match the part numbers) that has a decent warranty. Used onse are just as old as your car though and may not last very long. If you are planning on using your dad's car and not just getting it ready to sell, seriously consider having it rebuilt for around $500 or a newly rebuilt one for around $600. eBay has some really good options. If you do a lot of homework, have the time to invest, are methodical in your approach, and are very, very careful, you could try to rebuild it yourself. The kits cost around $100.

__________________
03 CLK430 Cabrio 211K Pweter Silver/ Oyster Leather
90 300SEL 214k Pearl Black/ Alto Grey/Black Leather

Prior: 85 190E, 88 300TE, 89 300TE, 90 300E 2.6, 90 300TE, 92 300E 2.6, 91 and 93 300SL, 87 Ferrari Mondial Cabrio

Smart move on the pumps, just because the run does not mean they move any fuel.

5-10 years? I would spend the money on a reman FD. CIS Flowtech is the authority. Last I spoke to them the unit was about $550, cannot beat it.

__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

AA:

Behind the fuel inlet fitting of the FD is a fine mesh screen; it may be clogged.
If that screen is clear, the FD could be removed, and an attempt made to ensure that the metering plunger is free to move. To do that, mark the location of the seal holding nut on the bottom of the FD (it is an adjuster for the stop position of the plunger), and then remove the nut. The plunger will now be exposed in its bore, and can be soaked with a thin penetrant.

Thanks everybody for your input. I am in the middle of painting the house now. I like to brush it on so it takes a while. 3 stories on back and one side, not as young as I used to be so taking extra care using the ladder. Have some carpentry to do first.

However I did order a rebuild kit for the FD, and will get back on that hopefully within a week or two. Standby, I'll let you know how it goes!

Good morning gentlemen,
I could use your help figuring out why I’m not able to get any fuel into my 1987 SL560. It had been parked for years and when I got it home the first thing I needed to do was replace brake master cylinder. With that done tried to get the car running. I noticed that I could not hear the fuel pumps run and after testing them, I ended up replacing both fuel pumps and the fuel filter. I replaced the fuel relay also. I drained the fuel tank and ended up replacing the fuel tank outlet hose that was rotting a braking up as I tried to cut a piece away.
Now I had excellent fuel pressure, still no start.
I checked for and have good spark, when I used starting fluid the engine started immediately for a second or two.
Next step, I noticed that when I broke the connection between the fuel injectors and the fuel distributor that I was getting no fuel. When I cracked the EHA or fuel in line to the fuel distributor I had good pressure and copious fuel. I had read that the fuel distributor could gum up from the ethanol fuels and I ended up rebuilding the fuel distributor. The inside was pretty clean, but the diaphragm was starting to degrade. Anyway with that done I still am not getting any start.
I don’t know if the EHA is the correct term for the part on the fuel distributor, but it appears to be a electro hydro mechanical fuel shut off from what I have read. I applied 12 volts to the EHA and could hear a faint click like it was opening. With a small rubber hose I blew through the unit and it opened and let air through when I applied voltage, so I don’t think it is that. I have the KE-Jetronic fuel system.
I am trying to educate myself on the Bosch CIS system, and I believe with the cold start part of the system that the engine should start, at least try to start, as long as there is fuel to the system. If anyone can help me determine where the road block to the fuel is in my system, I would be greatly appreciative.
Things I have done so far:
• New Battery
• New fuel relay
• New fuel pumps
• New fuel filter
• New fuel tank exit hose
• Fuel distributor rebuild
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Jeff