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#1
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95 E 320 compressor kicks on and cycles and is ice cold when set to "normal" and "bilevel" settings. However, using the fan control buttons pressed in any of the three positions, no fan is heard, no air flo is felt. When the function button is set to "EC" the servo motors operate and air flows through the ducts only relative to the speed of the vehicle but still no fan. The fan had been making some grumbling noises on "Minimum" setting this winter with the heat on. Is it most likely the fan motor or the fan control buttons? If it's the motor, is there anything unique/unusual about its replacement that I should know? In advance, Thank You.
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#2
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My guess would be the motor, more common a problem than the other components. You can/should check the fuse. It's a strip-fuse, located on the left front strut tower, it's in a black plastic box with a flip open lid. Check the fuse, and if it's OK, start the car and turn on the climate control, and turn on the windshield defroster, you should have about battery voltage on either of the screws retaining the strip fuse. If you do, need to get to the blower to test voltage at the motor, again looking for battery voltage.
It's a tough job for a novice. It's under the center of the windshield, need to remove the intake for the climate control, then the wiper motor and linkage assembly to get to it. Gilly
__________________
Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#3
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Thanks for the quick response...
Gilly, The fuse for the blower is fine. What voltage reading should I get at the fuse retainer with the defroster on ? 12-14?
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#4
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Yeah, about battery voltage, so 12-14 is about right. Just use a voltmeter to check from a good ground to either one of the screws holding down the strip fuse. If you have good voltage, then on to the blower case.
Gilly
__________________
Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#5
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As I set out to check voltage, I started the engine and the blower
motor was blasting air thru the ducts at high speed (the button was set on high from yesterday). This lasted about 30 seconds- no buttons were pressed-and then it cut off completely. Evidently there is voltage. Then tested the fuse connectors- 13 volts. Could it be: A. the bearings in the motor housing are worn and its not sitting in the center to spin freely and needs replacement. B. a wire to the motor is loose causing intermittent on and off. C. a bad fan button unit. D. your thoughts here Gilly,- I puzzled. Allen |
#6
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If it failed and the voltage was still there on the strip fuse screws, i'd say a bad motor. Not much use in wondering why, it's too much work to get to it to mess around with it IMHO, just plan on replacing it. For the record though, probably worn out brushes in the fan motor.
Gilly
__________________
Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#7
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Added Twist
Gilly-thanks for the continued advise...
I started the engine with the "0" pressed in and the fan on high.Then pressed "EC" and the fan came roaring to life at high speed. Thirty seconds later it reduced itself to the speed as if it were set at "AUTO" and stayed there. Bottom line- when set at low it stayed on low but when set at "AUTO" or high it remaind at the medium speed. I turned the engine on and off 8-10 times allowing 30 seconds between start-ups and it became in- consistant as far as what speed it would resume but the fan always came on. Now here's the kicker... This evening I started the engine and put the headlights on. For the first time ever, there were no backlights illuminating either pushbutton panel and no fan motor either!!?? So I tapped the wood above the 5 button bar and the fan came to life and all lights came on except the one behind the thermostat wheel. Tapped it again and those same lights went out as did the fan. Tapped it a third time and everything came back on. Based on this latest scenario, I suspect there may be a short in the 3 button fan switch and/or a loose connector behind the wood to the lights. What do you think? Question: What is the relationship between the backlighting and the push- buttons? Allen |
#8
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Go figure...
Gilly,
I drove the car all day and the whole system ran perfectly. The fan speeds were correct for the given settings, there were no fluctuations, the fan didn't die out, nothing went wrong today. It was perfect. Have you ever experienced this chain of events only to have the system return to "normal"? What do you make of this? ![]() |
#9
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Sounds like the push-button panel based on your first previous post. I don't understand the link between the lighting and fan cutting out though. I believe that even the 95 had the little daisy-chain of bulbs that insert into the back of the panel, shouldn't be affected by the circuitry inside the panel at all.
Gilly
__________________
Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#10
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If it acts up again with the same symtoms, I'll replace the push
buttons and the lights (while I'm in there). Thank you for your advise. I hope it will be awhile before I have to update. Allen |
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