Well this is the first time I ever saw that happening:

The distributor flange was badly rusted to camshaft, The Torx bolt thats holding the flange into the camshaft came out surpassingly easy (wasn't loose and wasn't too tight). After removing the bolt I realized that the flange is absolutely frozen.. I soaked it in Kroil and made a slide hammer using some bolts and a pulley which worked surpassingly well and broke the ears off the flange. Now what? I was thinking of tapping the inside and using a bolt in the center along with a slide hammer...

MY FEAR is that the clown that was in there before never torqued the torx screw and now the flange is stuck against the locating pin of the camshaft..

Any input will be highly appreciated

Some visuals :

https://imgur.com/a/tlgfat1

Looks like you may be able to remove the upper timing cover now that the ears have broken off. May have to see if its possible to remove the broken piece after that, or replace the exhaust cam altogether.

And somewhere on another site a person has posted " Some clown broke the ears off the distributor flange. "

The distributor rotor takes about zero torque to rotate so even if the screw was hand tightened with a screw driver it would be fine. Distributor rotors on other brands and older MB were push on.

Corona makes Ozone and Ozone is corrosive to metal. If the shield was missing / cracked, it would cause rust.

Being the only reason to remove the distributor flange is to remove the front cover, file what is left of the flange smooth, remove the cover then heat or split what is left of the flange.

I am aware of that, M117 is the first example that comes into mind.

The protective cover and the O ring were just fine - In fact the cover seems relatively new.

I noticed the crack while using the slide hammer. I decided to butcher the flange thinking I'll be able to remove the front cover - I made a mistake. I don't feel very comfortable heating the camshaft or splicing the remainder of the flange WITHOUT harming the camshaft. Any possible risk with tapping the center of the flange and using once again the slide hammer to extract the reminder of the flange? I'll be using an M16x2.0 tap as I measured the inner diameter of the flange to be 14.2mm (+- 0.03) which is the diameter of the drill size used of this tap.

Mild heating of the flange won't harm the cam.

There probably isn't enough material in the flanges center to make more then one thread. This flange is likely made from powdered metal so it will be brittle making a single thread not very strong.

Why was the flange being removed in the first place?

Using an M16x2.0 plug tap, then a bottoming tap I was able to create thread along the inner part of the flange. Then using an old pulley and the appropriate bolt as a slide hammer I was able to extract the reminder of the flange.

I run a 9X1 tap into the bolt hole, clamp it with vice grips and tap them loose with a small hammer. Works every time.

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90 300TE 4-M
Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim
T04B cover .60 AR
Stage 3 turbine .63 AR
A2W I/C, 40 LB/HR
MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control
3" Exh, AEM W/B O2
Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys,
Vented Rear Discs, .034 Booster.
3.07 diffs 1st Gear Start

90 300CE 104.980
Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression
197° intake cam w/20° advancer
Tuned CIS ECU
4° ignition advance
PCS TCM2000, built 722.6
600W networked suction fan
Sportline sway bars
V8 rear subframe, Quaife ATB 3.06 diff