W124 Rear Control Arm Links - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

85 DSEL · #16 11-23-2018, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sm. pelle

For easier work and not dropping subframe, u can just unbolt subframe front bushings. Then subframe drops 2-4 inches.

Would the driveshaft need to be disconnected at the diff?

Quote:

Originally Posted by lsmalley

Start by jacking up the car and mark the nuts/bolts as I described. Then remove the 30mm axle nut (this is necessary in order to remove the rear control arm). Remove rear caliper from wheel carrier and support it out of the way, remove the rotor, and rear parking brakes. Undo, the 13 mm bolt that holds the brake cable to the wheel carrier. Next, break loose all the bolts connected to the rear wheel carrier (that way they are already loose and you won't need leverage later to get them off). Then compress rear spring and undo bolt on inside control arm, shock bolt, outside control arm, and the bolt for the sway bar support link that is connected to the control arm. Now you should be able to remove the entire lower control arm. Now you can replace the first bushing in the control arm. Next, remove the wheel carrier by undoing the loosened bolts and use a jack stand to support the rear axle end. At this point you can now remove and replace each link one by one and be sure to pay attention to the markings you made. When you are done with the links, use that 30 mm socket to hammer out the bushing on the wheel carrier.

I will be referring back to this thread for sure when I get into this project. Your input will prove to be very valuable! Thanks...

sm. pelle · #17 11-25-2018, 02:01 PM

U don't have to disconnect driveshaft. I did without loosening subframe. Those two upper links body side bolts are pain in the ass, others are easy. I had to cut those.

85 DSEL · #18 12-19-2018, 10:11 AM

Just discovered this last evening when I had the wheels up off the ground. YIKES! If I had any idea it was THIS bad, I'd probably not taken it on a 1000 mile trip to ATL last week....

YouTube video

85 DSEL · #19 01-06-2019, 12:19 PM

Well, I now have in my hands the control arms repair kit and am trying to strategize how best to tackle the job. I'm looking for guidance from those who have actually done this job and can comment from experience whether it is reasonably doable to R&R one or two of these arms (to each side) due to the time I have available to work on it. I have a garage/shop to work in where it will be done without a lift other than the standard floor lift and jack stands/concrete blocks. I can't simply take it apart and leave it there for days on end. As slow as I work, there's no way I see this being a 'start-to-finish-without-coming-up-for-air' project so I'm trying to figure the best approach.

This afternoon, I may take the time to get under there and apply more penetrating solution to all the connections - which I have done twice in the past 10 days. Might go ahead and try loosening some of them to see how easy/difficult they are going to be. All in all I'm looking for more good advice (and encouragement!) such as that from lsmalley and others!

Dale

85 DSEL · #20 01-06-2019, 03:53 PM

Scratching my head here

How to get the 'keeper' (cover) off the 30mm hub nut? Is it supposed to simply 'pull' off?

Dale

lsmalley · #21 01-06-2019, 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 85 DSEL

Scratching my head here

How to get the 'keeper' (cover) off the 30mm hub nut? Is it supposed to simply 'pull' off?

Dale

Remove the 30 mm nut by bending out the small tab and then rotate nut CCW. Be sure to set the e-brake and if you have a jack stand try setting the ceter of the hub lip right on the jack stand so when you loosen the nut, the stand prevents the wheel carrier from moving up and down. Remove the 6 bolts mounting axle to diff, drop the axle-to-diff end of the shaft, then push axle out.

85 DSEL · #22 01-06-2019, 05:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lsmalley

Remove the 30 mm nut by bending out the small tab and then rotate nut CCW. Be sure to set the e-brake and if you have a jack stand try setting the ceter of the hub lip right on the jack stand so when you loosen the nut, the stand prevents the wheel carrier from moving up and down. Remove the 6 bolts mounting axle to diff, drop the axle-to-diff end of the shaft, then push axle out.

Thanks for your help lsmalley! I will indeed take your advice and twist that bad boy off there

. I had already put things back together before I got your reply but that's ok!

So is that tab part of the actual nut or is it a cover for the nut? Thanks for clarifying.

Dale

lsmalley · #23 01-06-2019, 05:51 PM

It's part of the nut. It's just a break away tab

85 DSEL · #24 01-11-2019, 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lsmalley

....A good tip to use is to get a small quart of white paint/primer and use it on all the bolts/nuts. I have made it a habit to use the white paint and starting from the center on a bolt, I will draw either a horizontal or vertical line extending to the surface of the vehicle (sorta like making a notch) to ensure that everything goes back exactly how it was. This will help with the misalignment issue....

Somebody care to draw or take a picture explaining this procedure? Jeeesh, I'm a thick head at times

Thanks
Dale

EDIT: Is this at all the idea?

lsmalley · #25 01-11-2019, 06:37 PM

Mark like this before you take out any bolts. Then when you are putting bolts back, the mark will line up exactly how it was. This will be most beneficial when dealing with eccentric bolts. Yes, your picture above is correct.

85 DSEL · #26 01-11-2019, 06:47 PM

Hahahaha, Got it! So all the penetrating goop I've been shooting on them for the past few weeks will need to be sorta dried up so the paint will stick

I've started digging into this job this afternoon so I'll keep pecking away at it over the coming days (not weeks, hopefully) until done. I'll likely be back from time to time asking for guidance

Dale

Phillytwotank · #27 01-11-2019, 07:58 PM

I found it very helpful to use a 1/2 inch impact gun with about 125psi of air to spin that axle nut off.

85 DSEL · #28 01-11-2019, 08:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phillytwotank

I found it very helpful to use a 1/2 inch impact gun with about 125psi of air to spin that axle nut off.

Well, if I were to do that I'd have to go buy or rent a compressor and gun! If I can find one to rent, I might just do that. Otherwise I'm going to have to use breaker bar and a long pipe for leverage.

Thanks for the suggestion

Dale

Phillytwotank · #29 01-12-2019, 09:23 AM

Well, part of my issue was that I went a head and drop the sub frame with the axles and differential all attached. When I went to break free the axle nuts I didn’t have a good handle anywhere to back it up. If you are working on it still mostly put together usually use the brakes or put it in gear and give it hell with the long bar.

As for your debating on whether or not to drop the sub frame or work on the control arms in place... depends on how much you are replacing. Obviously, if you are going to be replacing the sub frame mounts been the sub frame will have to drop. If you are just working on the control arms then you might be better off working on it with the sub frame in place. Yeah, you may have a little more difficulty gaining access to both sides of the fasteners on each end of the arms but it will probably be less work all together.

85 DSEL · #30 01-12-2019, 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phillytwotank

Well, part of my issue was that I went a head and drop the sub frame with the axles and differential all attached. When I went to break free the axle nuts I didn’t have a good handle anywhere to back it up. If you are working on it still mostly put together usually use the brakes or put it in gear and give it hell with the long bar.

As for your debating on whether or not to drop the sub frame or work on the control arms in place... depends on how much you are replacing. Obviously, if you are going to be replacing the sub frame mounts been the sub frame will have to drop. If you are just working on the control arms then you might be better off working on it with the sub frame in place. Yeah, you may have a little more difficulty gaining access to both sides of the fasteners on each end of the arms but it will probably be less work all together.

Ah yes, I can see that being a problem.

Another issue for me is 'do I want to do my half-shafts now or not'. I purchased the diff bushings because mine are shot. So, the shafts need to be removed from the diff (I think) in order to install these.

Dale