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  #16  
Old 02-21-2019, 09:19 PM
85 DSEL's Avatar
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How best to get this ball joint together

I hate not having a plan for the wax as I'm anxious to get it back together! I did get the ball joint to button up but that is after I wedged a medium size flat head screwdriver into the slit and pried it open a smidge. Also turning the steering forward as someone suggested seemed to help. Before these adjustments, I was also having trouble getting the pinch bolt past the "whistle-notch". Once the knuckle dropped right down onto the ball joint, it slid right through.

I had ordered the knock-off version of the Mercedes spring compressor from eBay about a month ago and I'm actually pleased how well it worked for this job! It was a bit unnerving but I took my time and didn't hurry through the process and all worked very well. It was a tool well worth the $45 I paid for it (that's another story ).

My tie rod end was suppose to be here today but failed to show so hope it arrives tomorrow so I can do that and get it off the jack stands and take it for a test drive! Any tips on the passenger side tie rod assembly would be welcome as it's a first time job for me as well

Dale

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Dale
1995 E320 Wagon 185K [SOLD]
1988 260e Sedan 165K
2007 F-150 XLT 188K [SOLD]
2003 Harley Davidson FLTRI Anniversary 26K
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  #17  
Old 02-22-2019, 07:29 AM
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This stuff is a good protectant, and will quiet your garage door rollers at the same time:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Clopay-Synthetic-Pro-Lube-for-Garage-Doors-4128043/202794367
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  #18  
Old 02-22-2019, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 85 DSEL View Post
I hate not having a plan for the wax as I'm anxious to get it back together! I did get the ball joint to button up but that is after I wedged a medium size flat head screwdriver into the slit and pried it open a smidge. Also turning the steering forward as someone suggested seemed to help. Before these adjustments, I was also having trouble getting the pinch bolt past the "whistle-notch". Once the knuckle dropped right down onto the ball joint, it slid right through.

I had ordered the knock-off version of the Mercedes spring compressor from eBay about a month ago and I'm actually pleased how well it worked for this job! It was a bit unnerving but I took my time and didn't hurry through the process and all worked very well. It was a tool well worth the $45 I paid for it (that's another story ).

My tie rod end was suppose to be here today but failed to show so hope it arrives tomorrow so I can do that and get it off the jack stands and take it for a test drive! Any tips on the passenger side tie rod assembly would be welcome as it's a first time job for me as well

Dale
turn the wheel all the way left so the idler arm is extended towards the passenger side and easy to get some meaty tools on, like boss grade hammers, you will need to counter the idler arm boss when striking with a hammer, otherwise the arm will just swing away.

Or just use a pickle fork and maul it out.
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  #19  
Old 02-22-2019, 01:38 PM
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This works for 210 tie rod ends and ball joints - https://m.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html

HF website has a 20% of coupon today through Sunday.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon
02 C320 wagon
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  #20  
Old 02-22-2019, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
This works for 210 tie rod ends and ball joints - https://m.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html

HF website has a 20% of coupon today through Sunday.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon
02 C320 wagon


I actually have one I got from AutoZone on their rental program that I haven't returned yet. Not sure what the time deadline if any...

Thanks
Dale
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1995 E320 Wagon 185K [SOLD]
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  #21  
Old 02-22-2019, 08:17 PM
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DONE!

What a difference, no more squeaking, creaking noises!

I figured out how to seal the pinch bolt slit. I have a stick of beeswax and I took my map gas and carefully hearted the casing around the slit then took three wax and rubbed across the crack leaving deposits of the wax then reheated gently and it flowed into the crack. Filled it up nicely. Hope it does the trick

Dale
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Dale
1995 E320 Wagon 185K [SOLD]
1988 260e Sedan 165K
2007 F-150 XLT 188K [SOLD]
2003 Harley Davidson FLTRI Anniversary 26K
-----------------------------
2006 BMW 330Ci 110K - [SOLD]
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  #22  
Old 02-25-2019, 10:49 AM
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Why is there a washer under the nut? - Im sure the factory hardware is a flanged nut with locking serrations on it.

Reason to say is that the washer is bowed (more in a bellville washer shape) - this is not exactly a safe situation. If you do want to use it this way then get a proper 10.9 grade washer there.

btw - nice on the wax, the homebrew cavity wax I use also builds up like this. Works super good as a proper sealing wax and its very long life too.
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  #23  
Old 02-25-2019, 10:13 PM
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How best to get this ball joint together

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zulfiqar View Post
Why is there a washer under the nut? - Im sure the factory hardware is a flanged nut with locking serrations on it.

Reason to say is that the washer is bowed (more in a bellville washer shape) - this is not exactly a safe situation. If you do want to use it this way then get a proper 10.9 grade washer there.

btw - nice on the wax, the homebrew cavity wax I use also builds up like this. Works super good as a proper sealing wax and its very long life too.


Hahaha! The washer. I very possibly have it 'wrong' since I was told that this washer was the "new" configuration. The fellow that took the order originally from me was not available when I went to pick it up and the lady that waited on me was not sure about it but simply passed along the info about the new configuration.

I only put it on the only way I "thought" was proper. Please, enlighten me.

Dale

BTW: Did you share your recipe for the wax formula? Or did I miss it?
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Dale
1995 E320 Wagon 185K [SOLD]
1988 260e Sedan 165K
2007 F-150 XLT 188K [SOLD]
2003 Harley Davidson FLTRI Anniversary 26K
-----------------------------
2006 BMW 330Ci 110K - [SOLD]
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  #24  
Old 02-26-2019, 11:14 AM
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The recipe I use for making homebrew cavity wax is.

half a lb of beeswax (cheap one)
half a gallon of odorless mineral spirits.


grate the wax into a bucket of spirits and let it sit, stir to dissolve completely, make sure its thin enough to apply easily.

thats it.

You can use a garden sprayer to spray it, or just paint it on if you have full access to a panel.
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1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)
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  #25  
Old 02-27-2019, 09:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zulfiqar View Post
The recipe I use for making homebrew cavity wax is.



half a lb of beeswax (cheap one)

half a gallon of odorless mineral spirits.





grate the wax into a bucket of spirits and let it sit, stir to dissolve completely, make sure its thin enough to apply easily.



thats it.



You can use a garden sprayer to spray it, or just paint it on if you have full access to a panel.


Thanks for sharing. At present, I like my way better for a couple reasons: 1. It's already done! 2. It was a very quick procedure. 3. The wax is just that, wax, there's nothing else combined with it that could over time cause it to leach out (not sure).

I will be keeping an eye on it to be sure there's no developing issue.

BTW - I have been anxious to hear back from you regarding your statement regarding the 'safety' of the washer I received from Mercedes. I made a call to the parts Dept and asked the parts manager (who actually took the order and placed it for me) about this concern. He asked me to send him the picture that I posted here on the forum and that he would take it to the senior mechanic in the service dept. to get his take on it. He called me back to tell me that he didn't see anything out of the ordinary that would cause him to fear any safety issue. So, I feel better about that, but would still be interested hearing your theory

Dale
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Dale
1995 E320 Wagon 185K [SOLD]
1988 260e Sedan 165K
2007 F-150 XLT 188K [SOLD]
2003 Harley Davidson FLTRI Anniversary 26K
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  #26  
Old 02-27-2019, 10:51 AM
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My concern is that anytime a washer is being bowed in - the spread of force is not even, This happens when a weaker washer is used. a 10.9 grade wont do this. It will retain its shape and be in proper tension under that nut. Specially on a W124 - as the design of the suspension is a bit faulty, that balljoint is under a constant pulling (separation) force from the spring on the control arm.

Just keep an eye on this - replace it with a 10.9 washer from an autoparts store if you find it misshaped further.
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  #27  
Old 02-27-2019, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zulfiqar View Post
........Just keep an eye on this - replace it with a 10.9 washer from an autoparts store if you find it misshaped further.

Sir, THIS washer IS a MERCEDES part. It is NOT "mishapened"! The way it appears in the photo is exactly the way it was pulled from the plastic bag it arrived in. It is the correct part that supercedes the original designed pinch bolt setup. With that said, I am going to have to trust the MB engineers, that they have reason to make this change

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1995 E320 Wagon 185K [SOLD]
1988 260e Sedan 165K
2007 F-150 XLT 188K [SOLD]
2003 Harley Davidson FLTRI Anniversary 26K
-----------------------------
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