Cruise Control Amp
 

Can anybody show me a picture of where this is located under the hood in a w126? Im pplanning on trading in my bad one and getting a working one from one of my friends, is this a do it your self job or should i have it done professionally? thanks

It should be under the dash, above and to the left of the brake pedal. The key/headlight buzzer is on the same bracket, so if nothing else, remove lower dash panel, put keyin ignition with door open, you'll find it fast. Easy replacement. I've got a spare I think is good if you can't get another, will entertain offers. Good luck.

go to GDL-online. They repair them and have clear instructions on how to remove the unit.

Nic

I unscrewed the lower dash of my car, the part that has the change pocket.... and all I saw was a black plastic spiral roll. Where exactly is the amp? Anyone with a picture of this? Thanks

Snib,
That "coil" is actually stamped steel...it acts as duct work to move air to the side vent and as a collapsible support should your knee smash into it in an accident. Now that you have the underdash removed you'll have to lay down on the floorboard and look up into the dash near the firewall. The amp is bolted to the brake pedal pedistal, held on by a single bolt with a 10mm sized nut. You only need a 10mm box wrench to remove. Word of caution here, when reinstalling the amp you have to hold the bolt into the pedistal with one hand while placing the amp on the bolt with the other. Much easier said than done. The head of the bolt rests in a hexagonal recess which holds the bolt. I hope that is clear enough.

Also, as for GDL...I highly recommend then too. Got my amp rebuilt by them, turn around was something like 3 days - one day up, one day in and the third was shipping back home. Cruise amp has worked perfectly since installation just before leaving for Michigan. Peter does good work.

I cheated. I bent the tangs that hold the circuit board in and slid it out without having to remove the hard to reach bolt. It was EASY to do. The board was a bit of a challenge to solder, but I figured out that if you just reheat the joints without applying new solder first, it helps. That method gets that anti-corrosion stuff out of the way, which was preventing the solder from sticking at all.

sorry guys.. either I am blind, or my car got its amp removed at some point without me knowing. I looked right to the back of where the brake pedal is... and saw a metal clip, which I think is to grap on to the carpet. Besides that I don't see it. :(

Did you remove the lower dash panel?

umm.. isn't that the strip that has the coin change pocket right underneath the steering wheel? If so.. I did and I saw the stamped metal coil that MikeTangas described..

Then it sounds as if you only pulled the coin tray by removing the 3 screws under the removable covers. Now you need to get down and remove the two plastic twist locks, takes a phillips head driver. Remove them and pull out the under dash, you'll then see all the stuff up inside the dash.

aahh.. Mike, I appologize for my ignorance. Will reattempt my efforts over the weekend when I find time. Thanks... you're a great help!:D

Just removed mine and re-soldered the complete board, hope to test it this weekend. 1990 300SE

You need to remove the top foot well panel, the coin holders (color of the interior) are attached to the black plastic in top of the foot well. It is one piece.

My amp was held in by two black clips. One was difficult to get to. Look for a silver box about 1.5" x 4" x 6" mounted perpendicular to the floor. The connector will face down towards the floor.

To see it you need to get on your back and put your head under the steering column and look up.

Hope that helps
Dan