it's cable accel for my car part#140-300-03-30 ,ussualy special order MB does not have it instock. Cable that goes from pedal(insid the car) to the engine .

another question
 

I have another question on the ASR components. I looked under the kick panel of the drivers side and there appears to be 2 brake light switches. Which one is for the ASR? Also, just recently, Whenever I get in the car, start it, and drive 10 feet, the ABS and ASR lights go on. Now what gives? I cant catch a break with this car. And then to add insult to injury, the ASR still went into limp home mode after about 10 minutes. I really wish my car didnt have ASR. Its going to be the death of me.

Andy- there is only one brake-light switch.

I replaced the brake-light switch, and the idle control switch (aka, CTP) which lives *in* the throttle lever, and I haven't received any ASR problems since (knock on Rosewood). You will need a Torx 8 bit to change out the CTP switch.

If I did, I was going to replace the neutral safety switch (lives on the side of the tranny), but I'll do that while I change motor mounts, since the engine/tranny (on a 500E) needs to be lowered to get access to the neutral safety switch.

My last thing to change will be expensive throttle actuator (fuel-injection wiring harness changed out last year by PO).

:-) neil
1988 360TE AMG
1993 500E

A quick guestion about the brake light switch. If your brake lights work, isnt the switch working? Just a logical though, especially since there is only one switch. Just trying to mentally narrow down the possible culprits.

You would think it would be that easy. However, the brake-switch has two circuits complete circuits inside, and over time doesn't fully release.

Our wagon would function fine, including brake lights, but only have intermittant cruise-control. The cause, the $15 brake-switch!

:-) neil
1988 360TE AMG
1993 500E

Well, I'm experiencing the dreaded ASR lighjt/limp home mode happening. Of course, my warranty expired three months ago. It happened for the first time two weeks ago, and twice in 3 minutes today. Happens always within a few minutess of start-up after car is cold, and going moderate speeds.
Although I like my tech, he does not havee the latest diagnostic equipment, and I would NEVER take my car back to the local dealer RAB. Does anyone know of a tech in the Bay Area, hopefully the North Bay, with thisw diagnostic Equipment? In the meantime, I will start with the inexpenxive parts firat, ala Neil.


Tom
92 500E
126,000 miles

Join the club. Mine is acting up again. Same thing, ASR comes on, limp home mode. Happens mostly on the highway. Took it to the dealer, said I need new tires cause there is a vibration in it disturbing the sensor. That is a crock of $hit cause they are 4 brand new continetals that run as smooth as a babys behind. They just dont know and needed a diagnosis to charge me $85.00. I think I might have a actuator going bad perhaps or bad wiring somewhere.

Im about to bypassing this electronic throttle bull $hit all together. This has been a never ending problem with this car, and has run me into some serious money.

Either way, Tom, be prepared to spend a lot of money and have your patience tried.

Neil,
My car is still intermittently (every ten days or so) going into ASR/limp home mode. It is throwing ONLY #6 code. Is it worth it to replace the other cheaper things first, if it's not throwing any other codes?

Tom
92 500E

If you can get the dealer to print out the codes for you, then you can target the low cost parts replacement.

IMHO, it's worth 30-mins. of the dealer's time.

:-) neil

My indedpendent checked the code for me for free. It is only throwing #6, which is only the throttle body. It's not throwing any other codes. Should I replace the cheaper stuff first, or just accept that it's the throttle body?

Tom

Tom- I don't know if the non-MB testers can get all the codes or not.

I'd replace them, and if that doesn't fix it, go to the dealer and get the codes like I did.

:-) neil

If it quacks like a duck!!
 

and it walks like a duck

Then it probably is a Eucking duck!

sorry - Damn "F" key is broken :D

Order the part from Mshop.com (don't forget the gasket) swap it out with your existing firstilzenwanger sans gasket. clear the codes and crank her up (126,000 !!!- wadda yah expect a free ride forever?)

If your problem is history - shut her down, pull the OK valve, clean the area and install the new gasket and reinstall the new/rebuilt firsttilzenwanger(German for tuck it to the Yanks fer this piece of itshay German Engineering -no wonder they lost the var-prolly put the same part in their Panzers and Messerjonzes-TG)

Don't forget to clear the codes again and do a check of the short harness for brittleness in outer casing - if nunsuch

WINDERUP BABY!!!

Tom