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  #1  
Old 07-14-2019, 11:02 AM
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97 E300D - Adhesive for door card snaps/clips

Replacing the power seat switch, and after removing the door card, found five of the door clips still on the door (3 circled in pics). What adhesive should I use to get them to stick to the door?

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97 E300D - Adhesive for door card snaps/clips-passdoorclips1.jpg   97 E300D - Adhesive for door card snaps/clips-passdoorclips2.jpg  
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Last edited by rmasteller; 07-14-2019 at 11:25 AM. Reason: Add pics
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  #2  
Old 07-14-2019, 11:46 AM
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3M weatherstrip adhesive. Comes in black or yellow in a tube.
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Old 07-14-2019, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BWhitmore View Post
3M weatherstrip adhesive. Comes in black or yellow in a tube.
Thanks!! Any need to remove the old stuff?
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Old 07-14-2019, 12:43 PM
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I just use hot glue. Clean off the old so that it squeezes through the holes.
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Old 07-14-2019, 02:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmasteller View Post
Replacing the power seat switch, and after removing the door card, found five of the door clips still on the door (3 circled in pics). What adhesive should I use to get them to stick to the door?
I had the same problem on my 97. I used 2 part epoxy. The 3M stuff is not strong enough.
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  #6  
Old 07-14-2019, 07:44 PM
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The 3M adhesive is super strong.
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  #7  
Old 07-14-2019, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BWhitmore View Post
The 3M adhesive is super strong.
The problem is the surface you're trying to adhere the clips to and small contact area.
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  #8  
Old 07-15-2019, 02:19 PM
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I was worried about taking the old dry adhesive off the door cards becasue:
- It looked like it would be very difficult.
- Might damage the door card.
- I would no longer have a precise reference of where to glue the black plastic parts.

So, I cleaned the old glue off the black plastic parts (cleaned out the holes) and applied some 3M adhesive on them and the existing dry adhesive, let it dry a bit and get tacky, stuck them back on firmly, and let it set for an hour in my 90F garage with a fan blowing across it.

It must not have been long enough time. I reassembled everything with the new seat switch installed. Tested switch and nothing worked! When taking the door card back off again, I could see between the door and card that the adhesive not working - stretching all stingy like between the door card and black plastic parts. I put the original switch back on, tested before reassembly, the original switch worked fine (wtf? Did the connector just have a little corrosion?), and I put everything back together again and shut the door. It is what it is at this point. If the door card starts to rattle or anything, I'll come back to this thread for help with completely cleaning old adhesive off the door card. And, maybe using a different adhesive or a better drying/curing time.

By the way, I'm returning the switch to Pelican Parts. The original is working again this morning. The part number 210-820-90-10-M56 note said "through chassis # A 394035, for cars with (Code 808)., from chassis # A 394036, except for cars with (Code 807)." When I told them the factory original part has number 210-820-30-10, they said their database wasn't right and that they would send me a part return mailing label and a quote for that part (M-B and OEM parts are available). They were about $80 more than what I originally bought. I don't see that part number on the web site. I'm going to see if this old factory switch continues to work.
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97 E300D - Adhesive for door card snaps/clips-switchpartnumbers.jpg  
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Last edited by rmasteller; 07-15-2019 at 02:47 PM.
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  #9  
Old 07-15-2019, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmasteller View Post

So, I applied some 3M adhesive on the black plastic parts and the existing dry adhesive, let it get tacky, stuck them back on firmly, and let it set for an hour.
When taking the door card back off again, I could see the adhesive not working.
2 part epoxy...
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  #10  
Old 07-15-2019, 02:32 PM
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Better cleaning and more drying time. The yellow 3M adhesive is the strongest.
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  #11  
Old 07-15-2019, 02:47 PM
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Less filling!

Tastes great!

Less filling!!!

Tastes great!!!



I already have the yellow 3M tube, so if I do another door card then I'll try that again with significant more drying time.
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  #12  
Old 07-15-2019, 03:59 PM
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You can use gorilla glue on this application, The only problem with that adhesive is that you have to wait close to a whole day before assembling the piece.

Hot glue works good too.

If you want to upgrade to S class type silence then you can choose to replace the material on the cards with a dense foam rubber sold under different names like luxury liner etc.
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  #13  
Old 07-15-2019, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmasteller View Post
Less filling!

Tastes great!

Less filling!!!

Tastes great!!!


It's a floor wax

It's a desert topping. . .
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  #14  
Old 07-15-2019, 07:38 PM
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Does the bottom of the door panel have carpet? I'd be tempted to use 2 or 3 flat head sheet metal screws. This is used on some cars from the factory and the head disappears in the carpet strands.
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  #15  
Old 07-16-2019, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BWhitmore View Post
Better cleaning and more drying time. The yellow 3M adhesive is the strongest.
Not compared to 2 part epoxy. Not by a long shot.

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