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  #1  
Old 06-14-2002, 04:51 PM
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300E - Cost effective repairs at higher miles.

This seems to be a good place to get opinions. I have an '86 300E with 152K miles, owned since '89. Only really major repair has been an alternater some time ago. Love it. Runs like a champ, getting approx 19 mpg in city, but now uses oil at the rate of approx. qt per 1000 miles. I know this is not excessive but I also know that it won't get any better . My last compression check showed nothing to be concerned about. My questions: 1) How rapidly will the oil consumption accelerate until it reaches an unacceptable level, say 500 mi per qt. 2) Should I wait until that point to consider doing the valves, etc. 3) How cost effective would spending a couple thou on the valve job be on a $4500 car that is approaching 200K? The car has never seen a body shop. The paint is vg and leather interior is as new. To spend or not to spend. That is.......
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  #2  
Old 06-14-2002, 05:13 PM
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The experts will correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think you should even be thinking about a valve job at your low mileage. I believe that new valve stem oil seals (an easy job on your 300e) will be very effective in your case.
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  #3  
Old 06-14-2002, 05:24 PM
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For what its worth

Valve stem seals are more suseptable to time than milage.
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  #4  
Old 06-14-2002, 06:46 PM
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Check out this thread which is similar to your problem with oil consumption:

cost of valve stem seals vs. do-it-yourself on '89 300E?

I've noticed that stevebfl, one of the moderators, mentions this everytime the question comes up about oil consumption and valve seal / stem replacement. He is utterly convinced that most of us are changing valve stems unnecessarily. The head has to come off to do this and thus very expensive (about $2,000 job with seals, stems, and head gasket). In his experience, he only sees the need to replace valve seals, which a DIY'er can do very very cheaply, or a shop can do it for 4 hours labor, approx. $240-$300 in labor depending on shop rates.

Do the valve seals and enjoy the car for another 150,000 miles. Stevebfl says the car will be good well into the 300,000 mile range.
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  #5  
Old 06-15-2002, 01:52 AM
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Valve stem seals.......

.....sounds like the way to go. I sure do like the sound of that "300K before needing a valve job", especially since a new set of tires and some motor mounts loom ahead. Thanx for all your timely advice/opinions. Much appreciated.
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  #6  
Old 06-15-2002, 02:49 AM
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You might want to try one of the new oils from higher mileage cars, such as Valvoline's MaxLife.

I was running about a quart every 1k and it has risen to one quart every 1,700 to 2,200 miles. A lot cheaper than even valve stem seals.

My car that I use it in has 182k miles.
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  #7  
Old 06-15-2002, 02:50 AM
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BTW, these oils have additives that soften the brittle valve stem seals.
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  #8  
Old 06-15-2002, 08:33 AM
LarryBible
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As far as I'm concerned, if you are properly maintaining your 124 car with frequent oil and filter changes and other necessary PM items, your car is still a low mileage example.

Trying to predict when to sell ANY car before you have problems is like to trying to predict a womans response to something.

Even if something expensive does come up, these cars stay fixed after repairs. I personally believe that determining whether or not to do a repair to one of these cars based on its market value is the incorrect way to look at it. Even at high mileage, these cars remain reliable, solid and pleasant to drive. So, what would be wrong with putting some money into it and keep driving it.

The valve seals should solve your problem.

BTW, I'm personally very skeptical of these oils for high mileage cars. To begin with, yours is NOT a high mileage engine. When it starts, smoking, using a quart every few hundred miles and nothing can be done about it short of overhaul, then I will let you call it a high mileage engine. 'til that time comes use good quality oil of the correct weight for your climate.

My $0.02,
Change oil hot and change oil often,
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  #9  
Old 06-15-2002, 12:34 PM
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I'd also like to add that one quart in 1K miles is still within the acceptable specs per MB. I think the low end is 1 qt in 700 miles. I also believe that spending a few dollars on valve stem seals is a wise choice for your car.
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  #10  
Old 06-15-2002, 12:54 PM
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I am not suggesting that an oil replace the need to repair a mechanical problem, but I have used this oil and for a short-term solution. It obviously does work. My oil consumption went down. It works well:

Valvoline's MaxLife motor, Specially formulated for higher mileage engines oil is designed specifically for higher mileage engines with over 75,000 miles. Higher mileage engines may perform differently than newer ones - engines lose compression, gaskets become brittle, rings wear and valves do not seal tightly. This contributes to increased oil consumption, reduced gas mileage, decreased engine performance and a more rapid oil breakdown. MaxLife is safe for new and rebuilt engines.



Valvoline's MaxLife motor
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  #11  
Old 06-16-2002, 12:36 PM
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I was mentioning this to my buddy at Mitsubishi Motors who is the head of quality control.

He replied that every car manufacturer considers a quart every 1,000 miles within original factory specs.

Amazing.
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  #12  
Old 06-16-2002, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by haasman
...designed specifically for higher mileage engines with over 75,000 miles...
The "rest of the world" thinks 75,000 miles is high mileage! My 98 C230 has about 74,000 miles on it, and the engine is like brand new. A recent compression test shows all cylinders exactly the same, and to new spec. (Signature Warranty means periodic compression tests to establish a baseline for engine...)

I'm never had a Mercedes engine showing any kind of sign of wear before 125K-miles, and usually WAY past that.

Maybe MaxLife should market their oil to MB owners like this:

"Designed for higher mileage engines with 300,000 miles or more..."
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  #13  
Old 06-16-2002, 06:04 PM
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I too was taken back by the claim that 75,000 is "high mileage". They have got to be kidding. Hell a diesel engine isn't even broken in at that point. I worked with someone who had their Chrysler minivan's transmission replaced, when I asked why they said "...well it was slipping. After al it had 75,000 miles on it." I said "...AND". Maybe I have spoiled by imports in general and Mercedes more specificlly.
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  #14  
Old 06-17-2002, 09:39 AM
LarryBible
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IMHO. If at 75,000 miles your engine is tired, it has either been abused/not properly maintained, or it was a POS engine to begin with, like maybe a Fiat or something.

I let my oil change get away from me on my 220,000 mile 300E and it went to 5,000 miles before I drained it. Before I drained it I checked the oil and it had not gone down on the dip stick AT ALL!

Due to improving engine construction and design technology, fuel injection AND better engine oils, 75,000 miles is the breakin point as far as I'm concerned.

Have a great day,
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  #15  
Old 06-17-2002, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by LarryBible
[snip]

I let my oil change get away from me on my 220,000 mile 300E and it went to 5,000 miles before I drained it
[snip]

Noooooooooooooooooooooo! Tell me it isn't true!!!!!!!

You must have had nightmares!
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