2.3-16V Injector Nozzle/Seal Replacement
 

Members:

Is replacement of the injector nozzles and seals as straightforward as it seems, or are there some hidden trick(s) I need to be aware.

Thanks for any hints/advice.

Brian16V

Brian16V,

I have taken them out to check the spray pattern and put them back in, but have yet to replace them. It is pretty much the way it looks, although Donnie or another expert may chime in and offer some real insight. I believe you need to replace the injector, the seals, and the holder all at the same time. I know when my son and I were going through the head refurbishment it was recommended by the technician doing the work on the head that the stuff on our car be replaced together. It is all pretty inexpensive and it is all going on 17 years old now. Good luck. Jim

Thanks for the info. I've got nozzles and seals coming -- should arrive tomorrow. One other observation: The fuel tubes are "semi" rigid -- will they flex enough at the nozzles for me to R&R, or do I need to also remove them at the manifold and take the whole assembly out of the way?

DONNIE?

Thanks!

By the way, that darn CD makes no reference to R&R of the injectors :(; Haynes manual is also lame on 16V stuff.

Brian16V

Brian, what did you pay for the four nozzles w/ seals?

Brian,

Nothing major needs to be removed to replace the injectors. Remove the allen bolt, manipulate the retaining bracket to get it off and undo to fuel lines at the injectors. The fuel lines can be moved/slightly bent to allow the injectors to be pulled out. Slide the old seals off and replace. When you remove them (injectors) look for any signs of leaking. Don`t expect great improvements, the old injectors are probably fine.

Tinker

Thanks Guys!

Purchased the injectors and seals from Performance Products (~$24.50 per injector, $0.99 per seal -- less 15% Father's Day discount :)). Just tonight I scoped out the effort. Noticed the cylinder 1 and 3 tubes run smack-dab over each socket head screw that holds the "injector retaining plates". My 5mm allen key is just long enough to NOT fit under the tubes. I'm either gonna order a 5mm ball socket, or grind my allen key down. Also, looks like I might have to hold the injector nozzle while undoing the fuel tube. Thanks again for the insight.

One other thing -- do I need to worry about residual fuel spewing out of the tubes when removed? Maybe a dumb question (since the fuel pump won't be on), but the only dumb question is the one not asked.

Brian16V

Brian16V,

A little fuel will come out, nothing you should not be able to soak up with a rag or paper towel. It is not like there is an accumulated, pressurized volume trying to spray out - just that there is fuel at the injector and when you break the connections the fuel in the lines will run out if given an opportunity. Good luck and let us know how it turns out. Jim

Hi Guys!

All went pretty smooth with the injector nozzle replacement this evening ('cept when I dropped the aluminum spacer down the engine compartment -- took 10-minutes to fish it out).

I had my 5mm hex key ground down to fit under the tubes -- worked perfect.

Thanks Jim -- you called it ; a little fuel, no big deal. Just took my time and cleaned everything as I went. Tubes have enough play to only require removing from the injector end.

Thanks again all!

(now see my "stalling" post)

Brian16V