Vacuum line for Euro Headlights?
 

I want to hook up my euro headlight vacuum adjustment in my car.

What I need to know is this.

What kind of vacuum hose can I get, anyone have a part number for it?

2. Where should I tap intot he vacuum system, and do I need to get some kind of vacuum line splitter to split a single line into two lines.

3. If I can go buy some at a local autoparts store, what is the correct size?

4. I am sure its in one of the articles on hwo to hook it up, but if anyone has pointers or tips or things not mentioned, please let me know.

Alon

hey alon...
could you grab me a set of the same stuff, and i'll reimburse you when we get my car in shape....

woo hoo!!!!

thanks bro!!!

Alon:

The installation is in the Star article I sent you, it is an easy job. You will need a female 'T' connector to tie into the economy guage vacuum line, and a female 'Y' connector to tie the 2 headlights together into 1 vacuum line that goes through the firewall by the instrument cluster. Also need about 4 male in line connectors, and a 1 way valve. There are 2 types of vacuum line - you do NOT want the large diameter black rubber tubing that takes the small male inline, Y and T connectors. You DO want the much smaller diameter (looks less than 1/4") white plastic tubing that plugs into the large rubberized inline, Y, and T connectors. Your dealer should have the parts if Fastlane doesn't.

An inline rubberized connector plugs onto the back of each Euro light. the White small guage tubing plugs into the inline connector/Euro light. The white tubing goes through the second firewall/heat-noise barrier through the built in rubber dams - you will see them next to the fenders at the top of this firewall. You punch through one of the holes made for passing through wires and tubing. The white tubing on the passenger side routes in front of the battery, and between the windshield and 2nd firewall, below the wiper, and comes out by the brake master cylinder. The drivers side comes through the firewall dam and meets at the master cylinder.

Add a large 'Y', and you are ready to pull your instrument cluster and light panel and finish up. Once they are pulled, from under the hood you will see a rubber dam in the primary firewall inboard of the Master cylinder - you can punch through one of the small holes and thread some white vacuum tubing through. Attach one end to the 'Y' under the hood. The vacuum switch that goes in the headlight switch panel is marked as to the source and the lights - the Star article describes it better. The one way valve goes between the levelling switch and the T you will install in the Economy guage vacuum line.

Sorry to be so long - the Star article will get you through the whole thing, and Stern's aiming instructions will get your lights alligned. Give me a call if you run into problems and we can set up a 'Euro vacuum switch and aiming' BBG! ;) :D

hey jce,
can you send me the article too?

thanks

Here is the link:

http://www.mbca.org/w124.htm

Thats the one. :cool:

John.. Little problem I see is My car doesn't have an economy gauge . I thinkt hey stopped using those for the 1990 model year.

So my question is can I tap into any old vacuum under the hood? Routing them isn't my issues its the type of tubing to get and the connectors.

The switch has what appears to be 3 vacuum connections to it. is one for each headlight and one for vacuum input? I'll read up on that article like you mentioned.

Alon

After reading that article I have questions.

The vacuum tubing needs a check valve, where and how do I get this.

The lights I asuume are joing by a T fitting then they go to the switch. The vacuum line itself is also t split and one end goes to the orginial vacuum source and the other goes to the switch.

I think I rememebr seeing mine have 3 vacuum points on the switch. is one unused or is it some kind of pass through connection?

I hope to do this soon. As far as rewiring with relays, I see no reason to, with standard 55w bulbs the output is amazing. I can't imagine needing an 80w or 100w bulb at all.

As soon as get this figured out I'll add it to my euro light install DIY article I am writing, which should hopefully explain a bit more clearer what to do for the relays. Lights are simple as can be to remove and install, its pretty mucha no brianer, and the switch wiring is no biggie either. I also found a great way to hook up the city lights using some connector insides which have an opening the exact size needed for the headlight pin itself, and fits right in the socket easily and perfectly.

Jumping the wire over I used these same connectors soldered onto the wires. This makes it much nicer. Its hard to attach to the parking lights witht he limited space, so if you could unwrap the parking light harness to get more leverage on it, it would be much easier. I'll be cleaning mine up soon, as I wired the city lights in about 10 minutes.

Alon

hey alon,
so you're not going to use the relays?

hmm
should i just stick with h4 bulbs then?
are the h4's 55W and h5-80W?
and so on ?

hey alon,

i think they just didn't give us an economy gauge since our cars were the sportier engine equipped w124's...when i was about to buy my car, i looked at a couple of 93's, 94's, and 92's w124 sedans (300E) and they all had the economy gauges....

i think the only one that didn't was the 2.8L 300E i saw...the rest were all 2.6L

i guess that explains why we're 220 miles per tank huh?

i actually made it with 246 miles with 3 gallons left to burn...
16.38 mpg...i think....

woo hoo...
funny last tank i was at 17 mpg

I like to drive fairly hard, so I'm not surprised at my mileage. Its still got great highway mileage. I have been able to do 350 to a tank highway miles.

I decided not to do the relays. since I read that you must disable the exterior lamp out warning indicator.

Plus with the light output of these babies with 55w h4 and 55w h3 for the fogs is more than plenty.

With my old lights I had some 80w bulbs and they were fine, but I took them out to be safe.

Alon

hey alon,
so i can only use the 55W h4 bulbs?


thanks

you could use higher output, but trust me when you see the output of the 55w bulbs I have, you would be shocked.

Alon

so if i went with the 80W bulb, would that mean my lights are still good and won't melt?
when would i need the relay switches?

Well I know some have run 80w with no problems, others have had wiring melt or the switch melt.

The relays protect it, but you have to take the bulb out of the lamp out indicator in the gauge cluster. As the lamp out indicator will light up when you do the relays. From what I have read.

We can still wire the relays for you, thats not a problem.

Alon