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  #1  
Old 07-26-2019, 03:45 PM
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m276 Valve Cover Removal

I need to remove the right (Passenger) valve cover on my 2014 M350 M276 engine. My latest road block is getting the components off the rear of the cover.
There is a bracket there that has 1 screw easily accessed.
Is there a "how to" or step by step description available for this?
Can I remove the valve cover without disassembling the rear?


Alex

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m276 Valve Cover Removal-dscn9269.jpg  
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  #2  
Old 07-26-2019, 07:46 PM
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M276

Here's a picture of the bracket that I need to remove. This picture is from an eBay auction. My engine is still in the car.
3 mounting screws are out (1 on left side, 2 on back).
The unit wobbles as if it was held in by a plastic clip somewhere. Most likely towards the bottom?
Is there another mounting screw somewhere? Does the bracket pull out?

Thanks for any help,

Alex
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m276 Valve Cover Removal-rear-bracket-3.jpg  
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  #3  
Old 07-26-2019, 08:53 PM
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There is 4 bolts holding it , in your first picture its below the left arrow, 2 in the back and the one you can see, get yourself a mirror on a stick so you can see,there should be a wire bundle clipped into that big bracket , use a forked panel popper tool to pry it off the bracket,your going to have to remove the rear exhaust shield on the right side, then after all that' take off the breather at the back of the head

Last edited by nulu; 07-27-2019 at 11:31 AM.
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  #4  
Old 07-27-2019, 07:47 PM
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Another clip?

nulu,
Thanks for the info... it took all day but I got the valve cover off.
I don't see any markings on the camshafts. I borrowed a friend's cam alignment tools and it seemed like the intake was off by 2 teeth. The exh cam guide fit but the intake didn't … it was very close.
Very possible considering the ugly noises I heard while attempting to install the new tensioner the first time.

I removed the tensioner and played gently with the crank loosing the chain and was able to get the cams where they should be... I think.

Both alignment guides fit on the cams. I don't see any laser lines, hash marks, scratches or anything... but now the alignment guides fit.

Looking at the pictures, does this make sense?

I sure do appreciate you sharing your time and obvious knowledge.

BTW I believe that I have the crank set to TDC. Both cams have lobes pointing NOT at the #1 cyl valves valves and the crank markings are pointing up. It's kinda fuzzy and worn but it looks like TDC.
'
Are these cams set right?

Alex
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m276 Valve Cover Removal-tdc.jpg   m276 Valve Cover Removal-exh-gauge.jpg   m276 Valve Cover Removal-intake-gauge.jpg   m276 Valve Cover Removal-intake-sans-gauge.jpg   m276 Valve Cover Removal-tensioner-side.jpg  

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  #5  
Old 07-27-2019, 11:21 PM
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Marks

Well now that the sun has died down a bit (doing this job in my driveway), I am seeing some marks.
Do these marks indicate the exhaust cam is off? With the crank set at TDC #1 I believe.

Alex
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m276 Valve Cover Removal-exh-marks-close-up.jpg   m276 Valve Cover Removal-intake-close-up-marks.jpg  
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  #6  
Old 07-28-2019, 08:53 AM
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It looks like this chain comes pre marked to assist install and only the 2nd pic has the marks lined up. This would only assist in initial assembly because the chain isn't going to land in the same place after a revolution.

If the cam tools are being properly used, that is what you need to go by. Also, be sure that TDC is actually where the crank should be when using the cam tools. In order to prevent valves hitting pistons, some engines are timed XX degrees off TDC . Some engines also have a way to index the crank with a pin / bolt.

If you haven't loosened the cam / crank sprockets, the cam tools should slide on but again, this does nothing to confirm crank position is correct.

Please expand on " ugly noises I heard while attempting to install the new tensioner the first time. " were you cranking the engine with the starter / by hand or was something else going on?
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  #7  
Old 07-28-2019, 09:45 AM
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The marks for cam position are on the camshaft back side, not looking from the front looking at the rear on the camshaft plate with the cutouts , and the cam timing gets set at 40 degrees , note the hash marks are hard to see, but when crank is correctly set , those cam hash marks are level with the surface of the head, those other marks at front are for a new chain installed with copper links to line up to, ie a copper link lines up on crank and the copper links line up with adjuster marks, such as a new chain installed.

Last edited by nulu; 07-28-2019 at 05:19 PM.
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  #8  
Old 07-28-2019, 11:24 AM
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The noises I heard when moving the crank by hand, I believe, was the chain jumping a sprocket. I will check with my buddy that lent me the tool to ensure proper piston position... TDC or 40 ATC.

re marks: So the crank is set to the 40 mark and then the cams are aligned using the hash marks? The marks are not the ones in reply #5, the marks are on "the adjuster."

I'll set the crank at the 40 degree setting and look for hashes.

re the chain copper marks: understood.

Get'n close
Thanks
Alex

Last edited by Halexb; 07-28-2019 at 11:25 AM. Reason: Clarification
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  #9  
Old 07-28-2019, 11:37 AM
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Hi Nulu,

Are these the marks for setting the cam timing?

Alex
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m276 Valve Cover Removal-exh-marks-close-up.jpg  
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  #10  
Old 07-28-2019, 02:27 PM
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absolutely not, those are for when a new chain is installed on an engine undergoing assembly those dark marks are for lining up a new chain , which you would set a copper link to the mark, then a copper link with the intake adjuster and one copper link with the exhaust adjuster ,you would only see the mark on the crank with front cover removed , timing is verified with the marks at camshaft plate , or by removing cam sensors and verify a certain position of camshaft plate viewed thru timing sensor holes.
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  #11  
Old 07-28-2019, 02:42 PM
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OK Back to looking for the for the marks.

I appreciate your time and patience. I do not want to attempt to start this engine (or even begin reassembly) before I am dead certain I have the cams timed and aligned correctly.

Alex
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  #12  
Old 07-28-2019, 06:26 PM
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Interesting MB put marks on for initial assembly but did nothing to make it easier to set without the tool going forward. Oh well.

I can't offer up anything to help the thread but may possible be here one day I'm following it to learn. Whenever I've done timing belts/chains I've always spun em a bunch to verify no interference before buttoning it up and trying with the starter.
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  #13  
Old 07-29-2019, 10:21 AM
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I verified 100% mark at back side of camshaft (just behind adjuster) , a flat lazer marking should be level with the flat surface of the head, you can barely see the mark,hash mark

Last edited by nulu; 07-25-2020 at 02:07 PM.
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  #14  
Old 07-29-2019, 02:37 PM
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Cam mark

Hash mark within circle, exhaust cam

Last edited by nulu; 07-25-2020 at 02:07 PM.
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  #15  
Old 07-29-2019, 05:00 PM
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Cam mark

Should look like this at 53 degrees disregard 40 degrees


Last edited by nulu; 07-25-2020 at 02:07 PM.
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