1979 280ce

hello everyone, first time posting on PP. I compression tested my cylinder head and got 90psi on 4 cylinders and 80psi on the other 2
car overheated and i saw a tiny bit of smoke coming out of spark plug well. thus blown head gasket

anyone taken a head off an m110?
are these the right tools? possible to rig up some tools if these aren't available?

chain tensioner 110 589 03 31 00
chain tensioner holder 110 589 02 31 00
bearing pin extractor 116 589 20 33 00
valve spring depressor 110 589 04 61 00
holder 116 589 01 40 60 (IS THIS NECESSARY FOR HEAD REMOVAL?)

if someone here has the tools and would like to sell them or even lend them (I will cover all shipping fees unless you're in socal) that would be absolutely amazing TIA!

Attached Thumbnails

 

Be sure it is necessary to take the head off as it is a triple biotch to do. A lotta work.

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

wouldn't that suggest a not sealing spark plug?

For the pin extractor you can go to a hardware store and get a metric bolt and a nut + socket to create your own pin puller.

I will say that you will need a special valve spring compressor because of difficult access. There is a cheaper alternative to a MB tool. I don't remember the make/price of it.

Also keep in mind that the camshaft housing is separate from the cylinder head on the M110.

Other that that you don't really need any other special tools.

Just remember that you have to disassemble (reset) the adjustable chain tensioner before putting it back on. Otherwise you risk breaking the camshaft.

page 2 of this pdf talks about it:

https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12265/program/Engine/110/05-310.pdf



Yes. I would recommend doing a leak-down test before attempting this job. Compression tests are highly unreliable.

I'm doing it more for maintenance. with the car being 41 years, and the fact that I want to make this my daily driver, I would be feel better just replacing the head gasket. worth mentioning it was starting up perfect before the overheat and now it won't start at all.

I have easy access to an engine hoist and we do plan to use it. my good friend is a master mechanic and the car is at his house waiting for me to get tools. I already have an entire gasket set for the car

from what I can see, everything needs to be disconnected from the intake manifold and exhaust manifold, we plan to lift the cam housing head, and both manifolds together.

timing chain- how does this come off? I understand you have to remove the springs and rocker arms and the camshaft slides back?
does the removal of the chain tensioner give enough slack to remove it from camshaft?

regarding tools, the only two things I'll really need is a metric bolt nut and socket for the pin extractor? and a specific valve spring depressor? can anyone chime in on an exact type depressor?

regarding the adjustable chain tensioner, is this reusable or should I just replace? also i read that the head bolts are reusable, is this true? I already have replacements for those.

thanks!

valve spring compressor:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Valve-Spring-Compressor-Lever-Type-OHV-OHC-Engine-Seal-Keeper-Tool-Kit-USA-Ship/402348593906?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item5dadd852f2:g:3S0AAOSwDi5fJ61u&enc=AQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkTboA95HSvGa1O5UmCCGJLpNqEwIKMsDujlM1JMpE slJ%2FsEl0neiUj3pf35pc44XihO%2FlIE3%2BYdz8MmajZtplO588TWp9y%2BveCZGboy%2BYjWJy80g5WpkFGlWY4beDRkdP1k WaICshbL8oAbdrzlOwVPQ1Bis6AG6wyGjUpesjfQuB6L%2FENRloT3DPgeAyXnXU1uc2gzq7rSd2m1m%2BCvMkWqpaFrik3dW9xF GxEBXy6ltfYG8PdX8sTtZ20jeYLrSieZw877lw5ECZYkp8WCmht28fsOcYems0a2y67VSIsVjqKUyvSFf0d34%2BjDVf%2BcW0JN r5sq9DujjcOnmu%2Bs0xSxdoK%2B2RgvpB%2B4zfXG5OUL2%2FJLE0iAFt3DnjTZOEOscBz4mIIJHs7GIeLQVSNqGdqpT%2BZNmC ycduNLc9uyMMw5jlmn5HG5ghaWWIn260C080%2FzXbr7gZuBPTHscjkOa3snZUJn2S8t6LyrgSy80yaa0UPgi58CoowgGgPtcEpd 9%2BetjaHzLpImf84VlIsgfIPTrEYLDyilMloTCrX27n6n3yIe2gTLWaWoN4s1OmbQI6UNT9GKjemYcRJOG9LLV7kYYBR7Gbxp5k UiIWu%2F0t1ZR%2FymIBx9bvHhejR01uSRJ4eT94YlKjsQtkWc0D%2BfrqE50gF0jttDzoNKNs84FNJv43ZZ2Q2C0P9vZkNu2Q%2 FWXt37e5Jk25SBne1h6mj93mRLXiO1woWIFp5bvl3OsxWWg3dUsFuCX73Qd4xKayhjVemv%2F12nAjCCYAnrQRoYR5GA%3D%3D&checksum=4023485939061ae2b27168b344cf908935bdbb26cb8f

you will have to modify it like this:

https://www.benzworld.org/threads/diy-m110-valve-spring-compressor.3036907/

both the tensioner and the head bolts are reusable refer to the factory service manual here for more info:

https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12265/?requestedDocId=12265

Also M110 uses a drain tube to drain the oil from the back of the cylinder head down into the front of the oil pan. I recommend replacing it.

The only special tool you need is a Rail Pin Puller for the Timing Chain Pulleys. Many sources, including Peach Parts & https://www.samstagsales.com/.
Let the Machine Shop disassemble the Valves/Springs & reinstall.
A Flat Bar works fine for aiding in removing the Rocker Arms, & a fancier tool can also be purchased.

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83 280TE- 5 spd, 16.5mm rear sway
85 280SL- 15" Bundts, 5 spd

I have purchased the valve spring compressor. wouldn't a bolt nut and socket do the trick for pin extraction? how does the timing come off of the camshaft? still unclear on that.

A Bolt/Washer/Nut Combo can work for extracting the Rail Pins. The Pulleys on end of Cams are bolted on. Best to loosen slightly, before Chain removed.
Hopefully you have a factory M110 Manual. Remember the M110 is an interference Motor, so take proper steps to avoid bending a Valve Stem with the Cam R&R stages

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83 280TE- 5 spd, 16.5mm rear sway
85 280SL- 15" Bundts, 5 spd

1. Remove the cam followers (rocker arms)
2. Remove the chain tensioner
3. Remove the bolts holding the chain wheel from the exhaust cam
4. Slide the cam backwards and remove the chain wheel, without the chain wheel the head can be removed without splitting the chain.
5. Remove the chain guide pins.
6. Remove the cam housing, be very careful with the small bolts, clean the inside with a small screwdriver and tap a few times on the socket so that it is properly seated.
7. Remove the bolts from the exhaust manifold, the inlet manifold does not have to be removed, but it can make it easier if you do.

The chain tensioner is a bit tricky, to reuse it it has to be taken apart and repositioned.
he only way to do this is be putting it in a strong plastic bag when disassemble and reassemble, otherwise you will spend a lot of time looking for the parts.
The bolt that holds the insides has to be screwed in so that the tread just holds. When it is fixed in place (in the engine) tighten the bolt to push the tensioning part out.

Rob

thanks Rob that very helpful. do you happen to know the pitch of the bolts that I have to get for the pin extraction? I read online that i need m6 x 50, m6 x 150, m10 x 100. I am unaware of pitch thread thanks

Standart metric bolts
I can't remember the size.
m6 pitch 1.0 or
m5 pitch 0.8

Use only bolts with a minimum strength of 8.8

Rob

update: it took me a while as I have never actually made anything from metal before. I used a very old aluminum ruler, cut and cut some more with a cut off wheel and made this.

with all the rocker arms off I can now remove the tensioner and slide pins. but wait, are slide pins supposed to come out easy? because these puppies are definitely giving a good fight. included pictures of what I'm using. thanks

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Don't forget the two "hidden" bolts at the front of the head. They are located inside the head, at the front webbing. Stuff a rag into the cavity formed when you remove the cam gears.

__________________
“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

yessir I am aware of that as I have been scanning the head gasket for a bit. I have a set of mechanical fingers if things start getting out of hand, already had to use it once lol any advice on the bearing pin extraction?

Use lots of Penetrating Oil on the Pins & hope your Puller doesn't break. They can give lots of resistance on a higher mileage engines.

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83 280TE- 5 spd, 16.5mm rear sway
85 280SL- 15" Bundts, 5 spd