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  #1  
Old 06-25-2002, 09:29 AM
1992300e
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Idler Arm bushings

Hi all,

I have searched related topics and could not find an answer to a specific question. I went to pull out my old idler arm bushings and could not determine (I have CD) how to remove the bushings without damaging what appear to be dust covers on top and bottom.

Are there dust covers on the top and bottom? Are they attached to the metal tube welded to the frame? Or can I just pry them off?

I stopped for fear of damaging them.

Thanks,
Joel
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  #2  
Old 06-25-2002, 11:19 AM
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Did this a couple of weeks ago.
Your Idler Arm assembly is exactly the same as mine.

There is a dust cover on the top (big washer with drip-edge facing down), but it is not attached to the welded tube in any way. The bottom just has a washer under the nut.
You may be looking at the actual bushings, which are metal on the top.

I found the best way to remove them was to use a punch or chisel that was small enough to go through the hole in the upper bushing, and drive out the lower bushing from behind. Next, I drove out the upper bushing from behind. Prying would probably work, but might not be as easy.

I removed the rear exhaust manifold, though I have heard you can unbolt the engine mounts (and exhaust mount at transmission) and lift the engine enough to get the needed clearance instead. Your model may not have the pre-cats that really get in the way, though. Without the pre-cats, I bet the bolt would come right out!

Some folks have suggested cutting the bolt and installing the new one upside-down. I decided I like the extra insurance of having gravity on my side if the nut were to come off for any reason, however.

Note that the "spacer washer" on the top goes between the arm and the dust cover, which was certainly not my first guess upon reassembly.

happy wrenching
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  #3  
Old 06-26-2002, 10:47 AM
1992300e
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Thanks

Hi,

As you mentioned, there is not enough clearance between the exhaust and bolt. I have heard another solution. Take nut off, push bolt up, pry out bottom bushing. Using punch or simular tool pry out top bushing (bolt still in), this should give enough play to wedge bolt out and new parts in. Not sure if this will work, I will try.

As for the cut the bolt off method. I may need to do this and if so, I will drill small hole through bolt and use retaining pin to ensure if nut does loosen the bolt will not fall out.

Thanks for the valuable info,
I will attack this week. As I mentioned I stopped because I was affraid I would damage the tube welded to the frame.

Joel
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Old 06-26-2002, 11:28 AM
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Joel,

I have tried that first method to no avail.
I even jacked up the engine (mounts have a lot of give), unbolted the headpipes, and unbolted the exhaust mounting at the transmission. I was able to [barely] force the old one out, but I did not want to risk damaging the new bushings upon install forcing things in this manner, so after hours of messing with it, I decided it was easier to just give up and remove the rear manifold.

The second time I did this (friend's car-1988), I accepted defeat right away, and started by removing the manifold.

I have read that you can get more [enough?] clearance by unbolting the engine/transmission mounts, then jacking the engine up.

I think if I do another one, I will cut the bolt, flip the new one, and use a cotter pin as you describe. The hardest part would be getting proper torque on the nut, since it would be hard to get a socket in under there. This seems to be a case where the proper torque really matters...

Best of luck.
Let me know how it goes...
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Old 06-27-2002, 09:26 AM
1992300e
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I'll definately follow-up and let you know how it goes.

Thanks,
Joel
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  #6  
Old 06-27-2002, 09:45 AM
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Joel,
Try the removal of the bushings with the bolt still in mentioned meathod. This gives the bolt the required angle to miss exhaust.
Replacement is same and a clamp/large grips are used to squeeze new bush in...
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Old 06-27-2002, 12:07 PM
1992300e
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Thanks Arthur

Hi,

I will give it a shot, because if I can get it to go I'll be able to put back together the way it should go. Because like csnow stated, I might have some problems torqueing the bolt.

Not sure why they put relatively high-ware items like the bushings in a spot that's so hard to get them out of?

I am really looking forward to getting the thing back together and out of the gararge and on the road. (Wife feels the same)

My next item is AC, cold last year, not working when first used this year. Fan blows ambient temperature air.

Thanks again guys for taking the time to post.

Joel
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  #8  
Old 06-27-2002, 12:48 PM
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Had no luck with Arthur's method myself, but you never know...

I think this thing was designed to be removable before the pre-cats were tacked on there. Bet they do not have this issue in some other nations...

I should mention that removing the manifold went smoothly both times. Perhaps I was just lucky, but nothing froze or broke at the head or the headpipes.
If you do go this route, it would be ideal to have a new manifold gasket on hand.
The first time, I was able to clean the old gasket up, and get a good seal. I applied a bit of Permatex Copper gasket maker as insurance.
The second time, I ordered up a new gasket in advance.
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