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Old 06-26-2002, 06:43 AM
Posts: n/a

Help pleez!

I just emptied my pockets, and a few other pockets(thanx babe) and purchased a black 1992 300se with 128k miles. I live in S.F.california and just drove it up from LA. It's 3AM, so please forgive me mispelling.
1. On inclines/declines as well as bumps(large), the trans would shift out of overdrive. A right bump of the shift column and it would resume normal then mishift again, then a final right nudge and it's fine.??????
2. The speedometer won't pass 40mph and half the speedometer(rightside) lights appear to be out. (faulty speedometer cable?)
3. rear passenger window is ajared an inch. I hear the moter going, but i can't even move it by hand.

Additional info:
bullet proof glass
stage 1 body armor
lowered "LOW!" -but still smoother than my 96 camry
wearing 94 16inch rims/225/60/16'z

the car is gorgeous and i hope to be buried in it. I going to wash with holy water and wait till my insurance broker wakes up.
Any help help would be appreciated. Thanx.
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Old 06-26-2002, 12:59 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 352
First of all, did you make sure that the previous owner had replaced the evaporator. If not, I hope you bought the car dirt cheap.
1. Your first problem sounds like the transmission computer. Any MB indie should be able to fix this.
2. I bet Speedo assembly needs replacing. Why would the owner w/ all the expensive mods not want to fix a cable. He was probably told to change the very expensive unit.
3. Another common problem w/ W140. Do a search. But still an MB indie can do it.

I bet that engine is on its last breath with all that extra weight. You dont feel underpowered. I bet w/o the evap, you are looking at a $2500 job right now. But you hoped to be buried in it. W140 is not a diyer chasis like 300E W124. In fact, many mechanics dont understand its complex vaccum and electrical systems let alone a novice.
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Old 06-26-2002, 06:03 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Great White North!!!!
Posts: 400
help is here,uh,there...

do a search for ashman.he's got this mech in cali who sounds terrifficc(sp).i think he's got a spanish name.i hope you got a good deal as well!
'95 s500 (bought for wife but can't bear to share!!!) 125kms
'92 legend 180kms
'88 tbirdturbo(fantastic car-only regular maint.)120kms
'87 mustang gt(gone)
'86 tbirdturbo(gone)
'85 mustang gt(gone-but not forgotten)
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Old 06-26-2002, 10:48 PM
Posts: n/a
Evaporator? I doubt this dude know what it means, I don't..What's an evaporator and why expensive??
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Old 06-26-2002, 10:52 PM
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Southern California, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,503
The evaporator is part of the a/c system, and MB buries it under the dash in W124 and W140's, in particular.

The part can be between $600 and $1,000, but the real killer is the labor.

It's 15.5 hours to replace one on a W124, and over 20 hours on a W140.

The whole interior of the car in front of the seats has to come out to replace the evaporator. Apparently MB never expected these to go out because they put it in a very hard to replace area. A huge engineering error.

And for some reason, early model W140's are notorious for leaking evaporators.
Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".
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Old 06-26-2002, 10:58 PM
Posts: n/a

AAAAAAHHHHH! I hope they are not that hard to get to on 126's! If I were him and it went bad, I would re-route it after the first fix!! All kidding a-side hope the best for you. I took a chance on my sdl buying it over the internet but got VERY lucky and I have a good friend who is very smart/ practically a mb tech after working on his own car.
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Old 06-27-2002, 12:17 AM
Gilly's Avatar
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Evansville WI
Posts: 9,616
Well sure it's hard to get to on a 126,it's hard to get at on all cars in general and MB is certainly no exception. It's located just inside the firewall in the heater/AC box, the dash needs to be removed to remove the heater/AC box.
On the transmission, start with checking the fluid level (always!) and then move on to the throttle valve adjustment. This is a 722.5 5 speed transmission, which is unique to 300SL's and 300SE and SEL's starting in 1990(140 and 129 chassis only). The "nudging" was possibly just downshifting the transmission, this may be normal operation. I believe you'll see a "4-D" symbol on the shifter which indicates 4th gear or Drive selection. Any idea when the trans was last serviced? A fluid and filter change is due every 30,000 miles.
On the rear window, the regulator likely is broken.
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Old 07-01-2002, 05:03 AM
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Thanks everyone, especially Royaiii..

Thanks all,

I believe the evap is done cuz my vacuum door shutting days are over.
O YEAH! I feel the extra weight. It feels like I'm towing a scarab. I'm last off the line and first on the brakes.
Ouch,$2500 w/o the evap..i'm gonna have to see if the local drug-lord has any opening.J/K
correction: both back windows don't work, can that be a fuse?

anywayz, thanks again everyone, it's just cold in the dark.
And no worries all, only mechs with MBZ tatoos near the hood.

thanks again all, avitaze'.
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Old 07-02-2002, 02:39 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Virginia
Posts: 193

I have a good buddy who works at a local "auto recycling center" (aka: junkyard) and he tells me he consistently see's W140 S classes come in that run and drive beutifully, but have so many little problems that there owners get fed up and sell them. He sais that early 90's armored cars are especially plentiful because not every armoring company can make a dependable product. Think about it. They take the cars apart, and add heavy "hidden" armor. Then they screw it all back together again. I would not trust the company that armored your Mercedes considering they added all that extra weight to an already weezing M104 engine. The first chance I got, I would dump that car onto ANOTHER unsuspecting owner. This car will cause you nothing but headaches and debt!

And, if its an armored model, the rear windows might not move. Many armored cars rear windows dont move so the passengers cant be placed at risk of a well planned attack. Even with the new W220 S500 Guard, power rear windows are a costly option. Find out who armored your car buy checking your doorseals, hood, trunk, etc. for the companies decals; and do some research on your car!
"If I teach you half of what I forgot, you'll still have enough to compete with most people"
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Old 07-02-2002, 02:51 AM
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 352
Your vacum door fix is fairly easy to do. The pump is under the rear seat. I dont know the price of the pump but it shouldnt take more than an hour to swap out the pump. I recommend you call around to some MB mechanics and state your problems. Don't take everything to get done at once. Build up trust w/ the mechanic. Start w/ the door assist. But before you do that try this fix I got from bekkers catalog. With key removed, remove fuse 9 from the trunk fuse box and re-insert. This resets the system. If this doesnt work most likely it is your pump which has grown tired from pulling your armored doors in all these years. By any chance what do you need an armored car for anyway?

I dont know if it is related to my post but here is a reason to always try to watch your car being repaired. I was at my mechanic and I was looking at another technicians pulling the dash out of a 420sel. He took it out in less than 5 minutes. He then commented to his partner that they charge 5 hours for a dash removal. A while back at the same joint, I saw this Hemmingway looking guy overseeing the repair on his F355 to change some vaccum pump and the technician worked so dilligently and fast that I was dumbfounded.
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