1988 560 SL: Start After A Long Nap - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Randy · #16 02-13-2021, 12:37 PM

Thanks; did not know this.

Randy · #17 02-17-2021, 01:51 PM

Update: There is fuel pressure at both the fuel distributor inlet and the cold start richening injector, but I haven’t rigged a pressure gauge as I don’t want to spill gas in my garage while I have to operate the heat. i don’t have the correct female fitting to connect to the fuel pressure line.
Meanwhile, I identified the #1 plug wire as bad, which is why it wouldn’t trigger the timing light, so a wire set is ordered.
Still pondering how to proceed locating the issue behind my no-start situation after changing the coolant pump.

Randy · #18 02-19-2021, 09:00 AM

UPDATE: I removed the fuel filter at the fuel distributor inlet; found nothing in the filter after some spray flushing so I put it back.
I didn’t know it was there until I stumbled across a mention of it on the internet.
Fuel pressure gage is on order.

Randy · #19 03-06-2021, 12:02 PM

Hi, I have the fuel pump relay out; is there a way to test it from the pins, as with a V-O meter?

Frank Reiner · #20 03-06-2021, 02:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randy

Update: There is fuel pressure at both the fuel distributor inlet and the cold start richening injector

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randy

Hi, I have the fuel pump relay out; is there a way to test it from the pins, as with a V-O meter?

What's the issue? What do you want to achieve?

Randy · #21 03-07-2021, 02:22 PM

Crank but no start. New fuel pumps. New plugs/wires. Proved pump relay as the pumps come on each time the key goes on. Suspect it may be the fuel accumualtor.

Randy · #22 03-07-2021, 02:33 PM

Point of clarification: i had the engine rilunning although it had at least one bad plugvwore. Had to change thecwater pump die to seal leaking; no start since.

Frank Reiner · #23 03-07-2021, 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randy

Ignition is firing; at least it triggers my inductive timing light.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randy

Update: Got the engine started! It's amazing how much better it goes when it has GAS IN THE TANK...

Now I have to get rid of the classic 1500 rpm idle...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randy

Now that I have replaced the coolant pump due to a leaking seal, the engine refuses to start at all. My thought is to check fuel pressure at the fuel cooler inlet; what should the pressure be?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randy

Point of clarification: i had the engine rilunning although it had at least one bad plugvwore. Had to change thecwater pump die to seal leaking; no start since.

A bit of linear thinking is required here; not a lot of thinking, just a little bit.
>) Prior to changing the water pump the engine had reached a state of running.
>) After changing the water pump the engine will not start.
>) To change the water pump, the distributor was R & R'd.
>) Look to the re-installation of the distributor as the likely culprit.

Randy · #24 03-07-2021, 09:04 PM

It has ignition; there is a fuel problem.

Frank Reiner · #25 03-07-2021, 10:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randy

Update: There is fuel pressure at both the fuel distributor inlet and the cold start richening injector, but I haven’t rigged a pressure gauge as I don’t want to spill gas in my garage while I have to operate the heat. i don’t have the correct female fitting to connect to the fuel pressure line.
Meanwhile, I identified the #1 plug wire as bad, which is why it wouldn’t trigger the timing light, so a wire set is ordered.
Still pondering how to proceed locating the issue behind my no-start situation after changing the coolant pump.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randy

It has ignition; there is a fuel problem.

???

Tomguy · #26 03-13-2021, 06:07 PM

Did you remove the distributor to do the water pump?
Did you re-time after if so?
Lastly, are you sure it's not timed 360 degrees off, which would show cyl #1 sparking at the right point but actually happen during the exhaust stroke versus the compression stroke

Randy · #27 03-14-2021, 05:13 PM

Got the 560SL running; as you said, the distributor must be in the right place. I didn’t have it close enough so I removed it and jumped the gear a couple times. Running at a fast idle 1000 rpm it is firing about 3 1/4 degrees advanced of zero on the damper. What should this be to be correct?
Thanks for the help and for tolerating an amateur.

nulu · #28 03-14-2021, 08:07 PM

Going from memory the distributor at 0 degrees crank reading should have the rotor lined up with the slash on the the top edge of the distributor body, and pointing to the cylinder 1 of the firing order , which goes standing in front of the car cylinder 1 is the first to the front 2 is second 3 third 4th last , then right side from front to back 5,6,7,8, look at the wires on the cap they are numbered, you can jump the fuel pump relay by jumping pin 7 to pin 9 that puts battery power directly to fuel pumps , with the relay out looking at the pins they are identified
example 30 to 87 etc , dont attempt to jumper unless you have a fuse between 30 = or battery power and fuel pumps 87 circuit

nulu · #29 03-14-2021, 08:09 PM

The ezl sets timing in degrees via the crankshaft signal to ezl you can move the distributor body and that does not alter timing, only the ezl changes advance, make sure the vacuum hose from intake to ezl is good

Randy · #30 03-15-2021, 01:52 PM

After about 5 miles of very nice performance and a park of 30 minutes, thecar restarted fine and after about 1 mile suddenly died: as if the key was turned off. Restarted immediately, ran about 5 seconds and pulled normally, then died again. I did this repeatedly to get it home.
This afternoon I will try to start it cold and see how long it runs; I suspect an issue which comes to the top after heating up. When my ‘86 420 SEL did this it was the crank sensor on the engine rear.

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