Engine removal 1991 300SE
 

Trying to pull the engine and transmission from the 300SE. I have lost my FSM because of Flash being discontinued.
Can anyone give some guidance specific to removing the engine mount bolts? How many are there, (what size wrench or hex bit would be helpful). Anything else i need to know. I think everything is already disconnected from the radiator hoses and trans cooler line and electrical to the transmission mount and crossmember. Even got the exhaust disconnected. I think only the motor mounts and vibration dampeners are holding it in.
Thanks

Did you disconnect the front transmission coupler?

I am not sure what you mean. The engine and transmission are still together. I did disconnect the cooler lines, but I have no idea what a "fronttransmission coupler" is.

All I need is a couple of pages from the W126 FSM that details removing the bolts from the engine mounts.

@MS Fowler
It's the flex disk that connects the transmission to the driveshaft

Yes--Flex disc is out. So are the transmission electrical connections.

I just need help with the 2 front engine mounts and dampeners.

Dampener? Are you referring to the steering horizontal cross member?
Engine mounts have bolts from underneath. Use a jack with a wooden buffer under the oil pan while removing those bolts.
Make sure your engine is already hooked to a puller, just to be safe. Mounting points for the puller's chain have to be carefully chosen.

By dampeners, I mean the extra hydraulic mounts as used on the diesels. Do the gas engine W126 also have them, or were they not necessary?
All the motor mount bolts are accessed from the bottom?--Good--that is what I needed to know.
Thanks

MS Fowler, each engine mount has 1 bolt that secures the mount to the frame, and 4 bolts that secure each mount to the engine block. Since you are removing the engine there should be no need for a wood buffer and jack under the oil pan. When you remove the 1 bolt from each engine mount the engine will not move until you lift it with an engine hoist. Of course, the transmission should be supported when removing the bolt from each engine mount.

I don't think gassers have the little shocks.

Not sure about the 6 cylinder cars, but the V8's do. Should be pretty obvious if they're there by taking a peek under the car.

I saw the little shocks; one each side just forward of the engine mount. Knowing the inherent smoothness of the in-line six, I was surprised, but there, they were.
The single bolt must be up past that little oval-shaped opening in the crossmember. It must be a hex socket bolt as there doesn't appear to be any room around the outside of the bolt for any kind of socket.
For some reason, I seem to have picked up a new medical issue--as soon as I begi to lie on the concrete and look up, I get a wave of nausea---it passes, but makes this job real uncomfortable. That is why I am trying to get all the information before i slide back under there. Normally, I use a 4 post lift for my under car work but thought the front rail of the lift might make rolling the engine crane under there a bit more difficult. ( I guess this is "payback" for bragging to friends about how easy it was to walk under the car and then walk back to get a different tool and then walk back to the car--much better than the grunting that accompanies this old mad rolling under and getting back up.)
Thanks for all the help.

Tom--I am jealous of the Cobra replica--you can make me feel better by telling me that access if difficult...please?

Ahh, I now understand. No, I don't have a diesel, that's why I am confused.
My 5.6L M117 engine didn't have those kind of dampers. (Edit, I think I had them, I just can't remember)
Here is why I used a wooden block under the oil pan. When I tried to remove the bolts for the engine mounts, they wouldn't budge. I guess I don't eat enough Wheaties in the morning. Anyway, by applying upward force then down while turning the blots loose, I was able to get them off without rounding off the heads and then resorting to drilling or welding crap to get a hold of them. The engine is heavy and when the mounts are worn, I believe that side forces act on the blots making them hard to come off. That was my experience.

Mine has two

DONE and DONE.
2 bolts t mm hex IIRC, and 2 10mm hex nuts on the dampeners.\
Of course, then we use the engine crane to discover what we forgot to unhook or cut. There were only a few small lines lurking in the shadows and then it came right out.
I think this was a replacement engine--probably junkyard-sourced. The top of the radiator support had been cut out and welded back in. As soon as i started to pull the engine i saw that the job would be much easier with the piece cut back out....and i do not need to weld it back in.
The only other tip i would offer anyone who is contemplating this is a ratchet strap from the rear of the transmission to the lifting hook on the engine crane. I used that to keep the engine more level so the rear of the transmission did not drag over th4e crossmember and i didn't need to lift it very high. Working by myself, i have to always think about safety.
I just need to clean it uo, drain the fluids and strap it to pallet and get it to the shipping company.
Thanks for the help.

I wish I'd seen this earlier. Here's the W126 FSM w/o flash for future reference: https://tinyurl.com/yev2dj9f