Update
 

I removed the Kick Panel and Removing the Lower Dash as described in the technical articles: https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Mercedes-W124/64-BODY-Kick_Panel_Removal/64-BODY-Kick_Panel_Removal.htm and https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Mercedes-W124/113-BODY-Removing_the_Lower_Dash/113-BODY-Removing_the_Lower_Dash.htm

Both above are necessary to get a complete view and more access to removing the Brake Booster, in my opinion.



However, this one nut that is stuck on the pre-charge ASR box that needs to be remove so I can put in the complete brake booster system replacement. This one tough nut refuse to bulge at all, even though I put some PB blaster on the nut several times. I even use a hammer to force the wrench to move the nut.

I think the nut is stripped. So I did some research on this issue and among others, which is why I am a little late to respond back in regards to the progress I made so far.

Realizing that the nut is on a brake fluid line, I should have use a flare nut wrench (11mm) and not using the regular open end wrench which probably caused the nut to strip. I found out that I do not have a flare nut wrench for that 11mm size.

I am going to order a set of metric flare nut wrenches, since it is cheaper to buy a set instead of just one 11mm flare nut wrench.

In addition, I am also going to order the motive pressure brake 0100 after researching other type pressure brake bleeders system. This particular Motive 0100 has adapters for other make and models, which I found it very useful.

The motive 0100 pressure brake bleeders does not carry a separately bottle for retreiving the blake fluid from the calipers, which is why I also going to order a one man brake bleeder bottle.

Because of the upcoming holidays, I probably get these items above after the new year. In the meantime, I just go ahead and remove the brake booster while waiting for the 3 items to arrive. Stay tune.

The nut on the asr hydraulic pump is stripped
 

The flare nut wrench set arrived and tried to use the 11mm flare nut wrench on the nut. I had to manuever the fluid line to get through the nut because there is another square nut type 11mm in front. Because of limited space and no solid holding down the asr pre charged unit, I used a portable vise to hold that asr unit while trying to removed the nut. See the pictures below.

The nut is now stripped and wondered what are my options:

Cut the thin metal line as showned in the replacement brake booster picture? If so, can the metal line reattach to the replacement brake booster?

Any ideas anyone? Comments/advice/feedback is greatly appreciated.

Hydraulic asr pump diagram
 

eplace the whole brake fluid line (brake hose?) (Part number 009 997 38 82?) as showned in the diagram number 68? Between the diagram number 50 and number 68, there is a long metal line. What is that name and part number? Does that attach to the brake hose as a whole part? The end of the long metal line that connects to the asr hydraulic pump (the nut goes in there) is part of the brake hose?

I found a W124 ASR Pump Hydraulic Pipe Line Hose A1244280835 on ebay:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264710031559

Notice the hose is right handed drive vehicle and also the thickness of the hose. This comes from ebay in England/UK. I do not think that is the correct part. However, the end nut is correct that goes in the asr hydraulic pump. Just to give a general idea. Any help here is greatly appreciated.

Will a vise grip pliers or a pipe wrench will work to remove a stripped nut??
 

I wonder if a needle nose vise grip plier will help to remove that darn stripped nut?

ViseGrip yes, the needle nose version no. I'd use a flat jaw version if the nut still has sides and a round jaw version if not. Use newer genuine brand vise grips with sharp/vs. worn teeth so it doesn't slip. Clamp them on tightly and strike them to break it loose. Be careful as they can fly/launch off the fitting sometime.

As far as which line, I'd make it out of ni-cop tubing exactly as the factory shaped the current one. I'm assuming correct me if I'm wrong you're speaking about hard brake tubing not a hose, yes?

Good luck!!!

Finally got the stripped nut out/removed
 

I finally got that hydraulic line nut out from the asr pump unit. See the pictures. First I used a small vise grip lock wrench that I had. I put pressure on the nut, making a number of turns to tighten the nut. At first, the vise grip wrench, while pounding with a 3 lb hammer, started to slip, then tightening some more. Nothing seems to work. However, I started to use vise grip needle nose pliers and finally the nut on the asr pump came loose. See the pictures.

Doing further research, locating the hydraulic line from the asr pump to the ABS Module. Again see the picture with a red circle around the nut. That is the hydraulic line to goes from ABS control module to the ASR pump unit. I tried to get more information on the ABS/ASR unit and this is what I found:

ABS Control unit:

bosch 0 265 202 005 002 431 2012

ABS/ASR Hydraulic unit

ASR Hydraulic Pump - Mercedes-Benz (000-430-04-32)

1988-1995 Mercedes-Benz (0004300432)
Other Names: Pump, Modulator Valve, Pump, Asr Control Description:

All models. Auto slip (asr), asr, 300se, sel. S420, s430, s500, s600. With automatic slip control (asr), asr. 500sl. S350 turbo.

I am still trying to find the part name and number of the Hydraulic line that goes from the ABS control unit to the ASR pump. The Hydraulic line feels like rubber/plastic covering is thin and small in diameter unlike the hose type.

Next is to remove the old brake booster and install the replacement brake booster that I bought earlier. Hopefully, I will have enough room/play to install the whole setup in one piece. Otherwise, I may have to remove the brake master cylinder along with all those parts with asr pump enclosure.

My main concern is the reattachment of the hydraulic line that goes back inside the asr pump. Hopefully, the already stripped nut will be able to go inside the asr pump without much difficulty and tightening with the vise grip wrench without leaking brake fluid from the asr pump. Which is why I am trying to locate the part name and number of the hydraulic hose with a good nut to tighten properly as a replacement from the old hydraulic line with a stripped nut. Hydraulic pressure line is possibly the correct wording of the part name? Comments, advice/feedback is appreciated.

Sugar Bear, Your last comment "As far as which line, I'd make it out of ni-cop tubing exactly as the factory shaped the current one. I'm assuming correct me if I'm wrong you're speaking about hard brake tubing not a hose, yes?"

I am not sure but I assume you are correct about the ni-cop tubing and it is hard brake tubing and not a hose.

I found the correct name and part number: Brake hose from ASR Charging pump to Hydraulic unit Part number: A1244280735

Hopefully that is correct unless someone says otherwise.

Since it is a hard line you could make it if you can't find it.

Good luck!!!

Options available to resolve the brake line issues
 

Sugar Bear, after much researching on Brake hose from ASR Charging pump to Hydraulic unit Part number: A1244280735, very few websites carrying mercedes Parts have it in stock. Based on my experiences shopping mercedes parts online, very few of them carry the part in stock.

I am very intrigue by your idea of hard line using ni-cop tubing. Upon further research, I found quite a few options available:

Assuming the tubing is 3/16 inch along with brake line tube nuts 3/16 inch (black oxide coated steel brake line nuts), Here is what I found:

Nickel/Copper Brake Line Tubing Nickel-Copper Brake Line
Brake Line Flare Tool Kit

3/16 line - buy the whole roll of cunifer line - but will need a bubble flaring tool (dont do the half double) and metric bubble nuts to go with it. 3/16 line - buy the whole roll of cunifer line - but will need a bubble flaring tool (dont do the half double) and metric bubble nuts to go with it.



Flaring brake lines ensures a leak-proof connection without extra materials or sealants. If the brake lines aren't properly flared, you can lose fluid that will cause your brakes to fail. This article will explain how to flare brake lines using single and double flares.https://www.wikihow.com/Flare-Brake-Lines

What about this Brake line Flaring Tool, Double Flaring Tool kit Copper Aluminum Soft Steel Brake:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/294662315881?hash=item449b3e1f69:g:DkQAAOSw3ANfCN5r

Another is an In-Line Flaring Tool Kit, Low Profile | Brake Repair/Brake Flaring Tool due to the brake line is already inside the car and easier to do the job.
Details about Tools 3/16" 4.75 mm Single & Double In-Line Manual Flaring Tool Kit
Low-Profile Design Allows for Use On or Off the Vehicle
Designed to Be Used with a Ratchet to Make Flares Easier
In-Line Design Makes a More Accurate Flare
Double Clamp and Hex Screw Keeps Tubing Locked Tightly in Position
For Use on Thin-Walled Steel and Copper Tubing
Works for Double Flares on 3/16" and 4. 75 mm Tubing

In-Line Flaring Tool enables the user to flare copper or soft steel tubing in tight spaces with its low-profile design. This new patented flaring tool design makes perfect single or double flares easily. The double clamp and hex body keeps tube from slipping, keeps flares centered, and makes the job of flaring easier. Superior to bar-type flaring tools.

The only drawback is only applies to 3/16 inch and 4. 75 mm Tubing
https://www.ebay.com/itm/393572105210?epid=1555412821&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item5ba2b9bbfa:g:ajEAAOSwwzthQMj2&amdata=enc%3A AQAGAAACoPYe5NmHp%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSU8qUIAeVPdz29zRlje3Lg68Ua0ZFaBQHejjLYaaSuG2s uesMIuhudEuqmdd0syO3s0nuSCst2DKtJf7FNst0W%252F%252Fd%252FP9YoRXqZwn28XQKHSMcm81fZex3mMw7EXTHJUdekuP7 O7pNRZlUJOvm1GWJkKL%252Bn%252BIHkUhSlQ%252BGtorbVvE6uxTtAD3LZvZybbPp9ZHuLC3VPGAtVtejz9tO%252FmVxhW2v hI4qTwcyjC3uTYka13K%252FC6JUUeD781BM24w85k7Lw6up%252BNSV7vXIbes91LNsmAoMbVB28KlBJQzTecBG7iLYEHbJyemL mGq%252B45NBCpA2SjY65Ef%252BErmtXDckLJId1jJnwa45frc8iJzll4lrj8ol8X6uURNNdb920FIGAA7emXFa9uqvUWwqAJY% 252F9CCa3qePk4r2rYBjk%252FRArpwNTcLliH%252BWx5DFNN%252BGjDaCgwFopheNS%252FCYdxHqplRd6fmZTsGLIWIlXGDu pWjVPxFnsmgv85qfwBJsadI2Kjwa7ZGIvp%252BNsc12vzESVadUoS1FziRsauGSNUdKiyp4Aow0QiDblSgD%252Foyts%252By9 iwCDleBDjMxIi0NWDKL5lJlLqkD2KAx3Lr6SnIrY2cbnPL7jDI9nb05dLykc7Zi9jmoMibG5YC3lyBrDyFQ01l7alqx6xjZFbr9R v77PPBWQwbMO4RTEoDuL%252BTxY1ObunOPOfTAnBX1RRVPeRZqeTFbg%252FpS73diu1AgHP%252Ft8QhRWZAZ0ebh1ffJRxUgD 1Vw3VzcKCnurzmJBesoCdwZ0ponqboBuKDLVpk3FE8WaeeBQGhij1d5rRvh%252BZsasNaHPkQgrG2O5QFA5ssdBplIE3oAFP0J8 CQ%253D%253D%7Cclp%3A2334524%7Ctkp%3ABFBMwobohMNf
https://www.ebay.com/itm/174586557118?hash=item28a62b72be:g:7awAAOSw6hhf9yz3

Steel Tube Nut, M10 by 1.0 Bubble, 3/16 Inch?

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-24364-Line-Flaring-Tool/dp/B01DO9142G/ref=sr_1_12?crid=FOSSSQ03NT19&keywords=on-car+brake+line+flaring+tool&pd_rd_r=7071b083-69e6-4861-b7d9-a01bc60a460e&pd_rd_w=WCZnr&pd_rd_wg=tmR8m&pf_rd_p=ce8592e7-3f5d-4c47-8fd0-5053ffa3307b&pf_rd_r=MTWJY43GQ3T0TF6RV2RD&pid=eHNwVSD&qid=1641058976&sprefix=on-car+brake+line+flaring+tool%2Caps%2C121&sr=1-12&vehicle=1994-63-830-20---6-7-21530--1-2-2108--&vehicleName=1994+Mercedes-Benz+E320

Bubble flaring tool kit 3/16 in. tube size to M10 - 1.0 thread bubble flare European steel tube nut

The above options are just a few. Sugar Bear, what do you think would be the best option for me considering the stripped nut but the brake line is ok? Perhaps just use the same brake line as it is already there and put more pressure on the stripped nut to turn inside the ASR pump hole?


Any comments/feedback/advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks to all for reading this post.

Bubble flaring tool kit 3/16 in. tube size to M10 - 1.0 thread bubble flare European steel tube nut: https://www.amazon.com/Flexzion-Adapters-European-Automotive-Hydraulic/dp/B083963NP5

4LIFETIMELINES Steel Tube Nut, M10 by 1.0 Bubble, 3/16 Inch, 10 per Bag

https://www.amazon.com/Steel-Tube-Nuts-Metric-thread/dp/B07BN39CYG

Stainless is difficult to work with. Different tubing materials can require different flare angles, be certain the double flare tool you choose is correct for the material used. If you could by a MBZ line of a longer length one end would already be flared and you'd have the nuts to go with it. Shorten the line and make it match the old line, flare it properly and install.

Good luck!!!

Sugar Bear, thanks a lot for your tips! Back to research again!!