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#1
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need parts FAST !!!!! belt tensioner
I threw the main belt and need the tension arm, and the shock I was told..
the price i thought was a little bit high anyone know where to get it for a good price?
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1987 300E owner |
#2
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Right at the top of this page - from FastLane or PartsShop, best dang prices PLUS Airborne Overnight delivery for a nominal fee.
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Mike Tangas '73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72 '02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis 2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel Non illegitemae carborundum. |
#3
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what is it located under....the name of the parts???? I'm not sure if I'm calling it right because what I looked at was about $200 cheaper than the mechanic told me it would be...
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1987 300E owner |
#4
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Using FastLane's online catalogue, searching your year and model I found the tensioner at the foloowing link.
http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&year=1987&make=MB&model=300-E-002&category=G&part=Accessory+Belt+Tensioner This and all the tensioner items can be found under the cooling system link, many have pictures to help ID the part in question.
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Mike Tangas '73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72 '02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis 2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel Non illegitemae carborundum. |
#5
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I always hear about these tensioners going bad but never understood which part of it did. What can go wrong with this tensioner besides the threading rod that adjusts it up and down? (stripped)
I suppose the pulley could go bad but other than that there are no other moving parts on the tensioner itself that can wear out?! ~Paul ___________________ '91 300E, 215K miles |
#6
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well I shredded the belt and the arm was stripped so it wouldn't tighten.....thanks for the help...
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1987 300E owner |
#7
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Quote:
The shock bushing can wear out. The associated play afterwards makes a terrific amount of noise at idle...sounds like a rod going south!
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2009 ML350 (106K) - Family vehicle 2001 CLK430 Cabriolet (80K) - Wife's car 2005 BMW 645CI (138K) - My daily driver 2016 Mustang (32K) - Daughter's car |
#8
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Ill tell ya what goes wrong. Its the fact that MB uses rubber as the elastic element in the tensioner. There is rubber in between two circular pieces of metal which is normally under tension (twisting). After a lot of time and heat the rubber looses its strength and takes on a new "set". And then its junk.
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I got too many cars!! Insurance eats me alive. Dave 78 Corvette Stingray - 3k 82 242 Turbo Volvo - Manual - 270k 86 300e 5 speed manual - 210k 87 420sel - 240k 89 560sl - 78k 91 420sel - 205k 91 560sel - 85k 94 GMC Suburban - 90k 97 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail - 25k 00 GMC Silverado 1 ton 30k |
#9
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You won't have this problem anymore as soon as you modify it by adding ga.14 x 3" long tension spring hook towards a piece of plate 3/16 x 1 x 4 with 2 holes bolted on the power steering resevoir, just change the two bolts to make them a bit longer. The whole thing serves as a counter tensioner which help the molded rubber thing. I got tired of replacing the whole tensioner unit (3 times at $200.00 each) so i made changes and after 8 years it doesn't bother me anymore. Apparently, its a lousy MB design.... imagine a molded rubber on an aluminum casing that serves an enormous torque? that small shock absorber doesn"t help much either.... Good luck...
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#10
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Quote:
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Reno '93 300E 4Matic '98 Nissan Altima '00 Yamaha Road Star Silverado |
#11
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The whole rubber molded on the casing serves as torque belt tensioner and one's the rubber begins to deteriorate, which is squeeze between the shaft and casing (bolt), then you can hear this clinging/banging noise specially when it's on idle. Then there's the problem... solution....... replace the whole tensioner unit again & again & again.... they don't last.. until you modify it. Inserting an O-ring in between the unit and the holder bolted together might help eliminate noise temporarily but one's the o-ring is pressed and squeeze between metal to metal then there's the problem again... From a city driving experience (stop and go)they only last 25000 to 30000 miles!!!!!! that's bad/lousy engineering design.
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#12
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Pineda
I don't have the problem yet, but each time I do anything with the belt I keep my fingers crossed that there wont be a problem with the tensioner. I'm interested in your modification, could you post some pictures or a sketch of how you did it? Thanks Ernie |
#13
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Yes please post a picture and directions of this modification.. This d*mn tensioner, adjuster and belt problem is going to cost me an extra $100 for a hood hinge. Please don't ask why (look under the post "I don't believe this *****) just post the modification .
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Richie 1986 300E |
#14
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thanks guys for all the info......it just cost me $450....
please post about the bracket you made........
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1987 300E owner |
#15
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speedylizard,
I know that this is alittle late in the response but, What came out to $450.. The tensioner and the shock(damper)? If so where did you purchase these items from? Did that include labor, lunch and drinks???
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Richie 1986 300E |
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