Good to hear your problem was solved.

On my car, I had the same thing where Michelin MXV4 made the car smooth as silk. They now have 22k miles on them and still look brand new.

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Ali Al-Chalabi

2001 CLK55
1999 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel
2002 Harley-Davidson Fatboy
Merlin Extralight w/ Campy Record

Guess what - IT'S BACK! I can't figure this out. One day after new tires, car drives awesome. Then, within 24 hours the shaking is back. But, this time the pulling is gone. Now just shaking. I'm wondering if the dealership missed something when putting my new suspension components in. What's different this time with the shaking is it occurs after the car has been run for about 20 minutes. I drove it late last night, and after about 20 minutes of driving the shaking started. This morning it drove great until (I'm guessing here) about 20 mintues into the drive. Why would I feel shaking in the gas pedal now? Now I'm thinking maybe brakes again. Anybody dare take a jab at this again? Is there anything driveshaft related like a support or something. When you guys get sick of me just boot me off the forum! Ultimately, (when I get this fixed - and I will get it solved) maybe my experience will educate others on here on what to do and not to do.

Thanks,
mark e.
ft. lauderdale

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Mark E.
Miami, FL
2 X 1997 C280

Engine mounts?

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John Shellenberg
1998 C230 "Black Betty" 240K

http://img31.exs.cx/img31/4050/tophat6.gif

Flex Disk?

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Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".

Exorcism?

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Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".

Engine mounts were replaced about 9 months ago - that helped solve an overall car vibration, but this is in the steering wheel, brake and gas pedal. The dealership tells me that the felx disks are fine. So I dunno

Mark E.
Ft. Lauderdale

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Mark E.
Miami, FL
2 X 1997 C280

Have you checked your tie rod ends?

Worn out bushings can cause a tire wobble, and probably you would feel it in your steering wheel. Makes sense as the tie rods are what actually turn the wheels.

Maybe you have more than one problem. Have you checked your transmission and rear end mounts?

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Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".

Thanks Paul - when I took it to the dealer they told me the tie rod ends were fine. Perhaps it is something in the rear of the car. In any event it's going back to the shop tomorrow. Unfortunately my independent has given up. I love the car so much that's why I'm being so persistent. So we'll see what's next. My gut tells me it's still in the front end somewhere. I've been searching through posts and have found a few indentical conditions that others have, but no luck on the fix.

Thanks

Mark E.

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Mark E.
Miami, FL
2 X 1997 C280

Is your independent shop a Mercedes specialist?

Does this mean that you will now take it to the dealer?

I hope they find something. It has to be something very wrong with your suspension, like something has disconnected.

Good luck.

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Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".

Yeah, my independent is a MB and BMW guy. Most of his mechanics came from the two MB dealerships around here in south FL. He's been great, but has referred me to the dealership. I tend to agree - something is loose in the front end.

Mark E.

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Mark E.
Miami, FL
2 X 1997 C280

Well to help add to the empowering of others in learning about their fine MB automobiles, I will post the conclusion of this 9 month vibration problem!

Turns out the mechanics loosened and then re-tightened all components that support the driveshaft, and this solved my vibration problem. The flex disk(s) and other support stuff was fine - they narrowed it down to something in the driveshaft, not the front end. Since everything was in good shape, the last ditch effort was to retighten everything, and that was it. The car drives like a dream now. I wish I had known this about $2000 bucks ago, but the problem puzzled several top-notch mechanics. Thanks again to everyone on here for your help. I certainly hope others can learn a bit from these posts. I sure did!

Mark E.
Ft. Lauderdale, FL

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Mark E.
Miami, FL
2 X 1997 C280

Congratulations Mark,

It is good to know that you have found the solution to that horrible problem. Evidently you didn't waste your money on the tires, however, because it doesn't seem likely that the driveshaft could have caused the pulling to the right problem. So all of that $2000 was not wasted.

Thanks for letting us know of the outcome. Now, enjoy!!!

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Ted
1979 240D
165,000 miles

I suspect the fix is simpler than you think. The car is fine for a while after being in the shop. It pulls after being driven for a while. Vibration and pulling are most probably from a caliper that is not releasing fully on the front right. The fact that the car is fine for a while indicates that the caliper itself is likely not to blame. I would try the simplest fix first. Try bleeding the brakes with fresh fluid. The age of the car and the fact that most people never change their fluid until they have a brake component replaced suggests either a small amount of air in the line that is expanding as the system warms (least likely) or alternatively a small amount of water that is boiling causing a small vapour lock in the line (my money is on this one). In any case, try this first, as it is dirt cheap. Let me know how you make out.
Those who suggested a warped rotor could be right as a result of the dragging on that corner. That is easy to check when you have that wheel off for bleeding.

Eeep. I didn't read the whole thread. Any thought as to the reason for the pulling to the right?

Thanks for your reply - guess what folks? The problem is back. I've talked with Steve B. about it (thanks Steve), and I'm going to follow a few more angles to this. One constant - when the car goes in the shop and they rotate/align the car, and I get it back, it drives great - for about a day or two. Then the same problem occurs. Steering goes sloppy, and wheel shakes. It hasn't mattered what wheel is where, or how many tires I've tried (3 sets). Steve has suggested trying out new front shocks...

When I got the car out of the dealership, it drove smooth and cushy. Then, as usual, the car went bad. I know I've worn you guys out with this post. I've worn my mechanics out too. But my attitude is that I've spent close to $3500.00 trying to get it nailed down - and various mechanics have ultimately blown me off (politely, of course). The problem isn't constant, and of course the shop foreman at MB could not duplicate - 2 times. I know how my car is supposed to drive; I'm sure all of you guys know when your car is driving "right" or not? Of course you do. Not to sound arrogant, but the Boeings I "drive" at work are obviously far more complicated than my car, yet they have a 99% + dispatch reliability. Why is it so hard to get someone to take the time and figure out whats wrong with my car? I don't have time - that's why I take it in and let professionals do it. I guess. All of you on the forum have been fantastic, and again a special thanks goes to Steve B. who has taken his personal time to answer my emails - he doesn't have to, but he does. Great guy!

Anyway, thanks for letting me vent. Again, in the interest of edu-ma-cation, I will let you all know what's next. I dunno at this point.

Mark E.
Ft. Lauderdale

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Mark E.
Miami, FL
2 X 1997 C280