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LIFTER ticking
I have read many posts regarding lifter noise. My 95 S420 has intermittent ticking with no particular pattern. I gather clogged oiler tubes are the likely culprits. My questions are :
1. Does one replace them or clean them? 2. At what mileage is is smart to replace timing-chains and tensioners? 3. Can the chains be replaced by attaching to the old chains and winding through? |
#2
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The consensus is to change the oil tubes. I think they were redesigned. They are also cheap.
You can do a search on timing chain, and the standard advice is to change the timing chain, tensioner, and upper guide rails every 100,000-120,000 miles. There are those that say you can go longer, especially if you've done frequent oil changes, but if it were my car, I wouldn't let it go longer than 100,000 miles. You know, for piece of mine. That's why it's called preventative maintenance, don't they? I haven't done a timing chain replacement, but have read several postings from those who have done it, and can't say anyone has ever done it this way. Again, I recommend trying the search function for 'timing chain'. There are tons of posts in the archives.
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Paul S. 2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior. 79,200 miles. 1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron". |
#3
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#4
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Thanks Arthur. That is the thread I was thinking about. It's the single definitive thread on M119 ticking and oil tubes.
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Paul S. 2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior. 79,200 miles. 1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron". |
#5
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Yeah... wish they were all like that..
Maybe some day there will be enough of them that we can start an indexed problem/cure section.. |
#6
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No kidding.
If we were to have an index for a problem / cured section, I think we should probably index the following as they may be the most frequent recurring issues: 1. Engine wiring harnesses and 93-95 M104 engines. 2. M104 engines and fault codes #5 and #26. 3. All Mercedes Benz models and acceptable temperature readings (everyone seems to freak out when the gauge hits 100). 4. Engine stalling and the OVP. 5. Fluctating idle issues and mass airflow sensor or throttle actuator replacement. 6. Leaking evaporator cores. 7. Euro light installation procedures.
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Paul S. 2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior. 79,200 miles. 1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron". |
#7
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I often thought a Parts Picture section would be cool...
So much easier to point out a specific part w/pic. |
#8
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Ticking
Thanks to you both, that was some good info. What should the oil pressure be at idle when the engine is hot (100)? Mine drops to about 0.5 bar, but goes to 3 as soon as RPM increases.
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#9
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Sounds like that's another good 'search' topic.
There are lots of good threads on oil pressure, too.
__________________
Paul S. 2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior. 79,200 miles. 1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron". |
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