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  #1  
Old 07-20-2002, 03:50 PM
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Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: USA
Posts: 338
380 SL Water Pump Replacement Cost?

My 1985 380 SL water pump appears to be leaking, time for a new one I guess. What should I expect to pay to get a new one installed?

Is green coolant OK in this car?

Thank you.

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  #2  
Old 07-20-2002, 10:59 PM
WRM WRM is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: BURBANK CA
Posts: 151
I find MB rebuilts are around $110.00 & give a 1 year warranty. if you install or a shop, MB will cover it parts & labor as long as the original reciept is available for them to see. labor cost varies on shop labor rate. it takes approx. 4 hrs book time. I would use MB coolant for $10.00 a gallon.
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  #3  
Old 07-21-2002, 01:01 AM
MBVETTE
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Talking 380 SL Waterpump

I recently replaced my pump on my '84 380 SL. I purchased the pump from Performance Products- $91. Also, Taylor Automotive out of NC has good prices. My pump came with all the gaskets.
The pump replacement can be frustrating, but one can do it with the appropriate tools. I did not want to shell out the $400 labor, so I did it myself. Just get your tools and parts together, plan your attack, set aside 8 hrs, and get started. Here are some tips that might help you if you take the challenge:

First, remove all belts, fan, shroud, radiator, belts, crank pulley, and dampner, clean the front and surrounding motor area with Simple Green. Works great! Don't forget to cover alternator. Use a small brush and putty knife to get the crud off. Oh, those GLAD plastic bowl covers work very nice protecting the air intake, sense you have the air cleaner cannister off.

Jack front end up a bit, not off ground though, and secure with safety stands.

Take time to check all vacuum lines and connectors.

Take time to check other surrounding components. You may spot some other potential trouble spots.

On the water pump, loosen all bolts except a top one to keep pump from falling off.
You dont need to pull dist out. I did not remove the dist. to remove the pump bolt. I marked the dist hsgs, removed the dist. bolt, carefully removed the plastic clip and spacer, then removed bolt. I put the dist bolt back and tightened, and then repeated when I replaced pump.
I could not reach the lower center bolt on the pump due to the impression on the vibration dampner did not line up. I got the bolt loose, but could not pull out. All bolts are longish. So you have to remove the pulley and dampner. My 1/2 in breaker bar with cheater (3 ft piece of pipe) could not loosen the crank bolt. I borrowed and used a 3/4 in. rachet and 27mm socket with the cheater bar to break the crankbolt loose. Worked great! It took all my 200 pds to undue the approx 300 ft. lbs of bolt torque. Don't forget to match mark the pulley and dampner before you pull off. Once you loosen the dampner bolts, it wil almost fall off. When reinstalling the crank bolt, don't forget the thread lock sealant.
Use appropriate gasket sealer on pump. Once you button that baby back, you don't want to reaccomplish. Dont over torque the bolts, just good and snug!
Replace your thermostat if it has some age on it. As well, do all the hoses and belts.
Flush your radiator real good. Repaint radiator and shroud.

If you need other info, just email.

Hope this is helpful.

Good Luck!

P.S. This was a 4 Miller HighLife job - hot day. I took my time - about 8 hours. Remember, things generally go back on a bit faster than they come off. I found some other minor issues as well.

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