Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help




Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum > Technical Information and Support > Tech Help

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 07-21-2002, 07:49 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Posts: 18
Driveshaft Flexible Coupling

I am changing the front flexible coupling on the driveshaft of my 1992 300E auto. I have removed the 6 coupling nuts and bolts, the heat shield over the driveshaft, loosened the compression nut on the driveshaft splined joint and disconnected the centre bearing support. The front end of the driveshaft will not slide back to give clearance for the removal of the flexible joint. Am I doing something wrong or does it just need more force?
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 07-22-2002, 12:18 AM
WRM WRM is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: BURBANK CA
Posts: 151
there is a big ( i believe) 32 mm nut between the 2 pieces of drive shaft that needs to be loosened. if you don't have a 32 mm put a pry bar between the driveshaft front flange & flex disc & pry apart. it is easier to pry back with the center support mounted tight.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 07-22-2002, 07:48 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Posts: 18
I had loosened the 32mm nut. However I took up your suggestion and refitted the bearing support. With a bit more "persuasion" the shaft slid back OK. Thanks for the help.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 08-04-2002, 06:23 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Posts: 18
Now that I am happily back on the road I have time to be curious about the splined part of the driveshaft.
Is there a small movement on the splines corresponding with movement of the rear suspension?
Is the spined part only there to take account of manufacturing tolerances in the body and driveshaft components and for ease of fitting and re-placing components of the driveshaft?
Should the 32mm nut be tightened to a precise torque?
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 08-04-2002, 10:42 AM
LarryBible
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
No, the big nut just needs to be tight.

The spline is there so you can collapse the driveshaft for servicing. There is no movement of the differential in an independent rear suspensioned car.

I put a flex coupling in my 300E several months ago and was pretty irritated about having to lower the exhaust, I think you have to lower the exhaust when doing anything on these cars. I'm surprised they didn't put it together so that you had to lower the exhaust to replace the spark plugs.

I'm sure you're as happy as I am to have the job behind me.

Have a great day,
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 08-04-2002, 11:03 AM
pmizell's Avatar
Benz Zealot
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 838
How much play, if any at all, should there be in the front driveshaft? When I grab the driveshaft near the front flex disc I can turn it 10-15 degrees either way.

Is this indicative of a worn out flex disc?

TIA
__________________
-Paul-
'01 E430, Sport 72,000 mi
'98 C280, 126,500 mi
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 08-04-2002, 12:31 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Posts: 18
There should be no play between the output shaft from the gearbox and the drive shaft i.e. over the flexible coupling. I could not detect any play on the coupling even although it was faulty. It showed up as a vibration at high speed and a slight "clonk" sometimes when engaging gear.
I agree with Larry the worst part of the job was having to lower the exhaust. Rather than part the exhaust I lowered the whole system from the manifold back. Oh and I am also lowering my head,obviously I still think in terms of solid rear axle suspension.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 08-05-2002, 01:51 AM
MikeTangas's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: So. Cal
Posts: 4,430
On the 560 I found it was easy to just lower the system from the back - muffler and center resonators. That gave just enough room to slide the tunnel cover off toward the rear, which opens the access to all driveline components.
__________________
Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 08-05-2002, 02:08 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: secret
Posts: 3,044
Lower the exhaust?

When I replaced mine, all I did was put my floor jack under the trans pan (with a small piece of plywood between), remove the rear trans support, which includes the exhaust bracket, remove the flex plate bolts, pry back the driveshaft and reinstall in revese order. I didn't remove any shields or "drop" the exhaust. This is one of the few success stories I've had with this car. Oh yeah, the German printing on the new flexplate means to install toward the rear of the car.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 08-06-2002, 08:07 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Stockholm, Sweden
Posts: 44
I also have a big "clonk" sound when changing gear from R to/from D (automatic) and the car moves slight even with my fot on the brake pedal. Would this indicate a bad flexible coupling?

Then I have this annoying loud sound coming from the rear at ~85km/h and ~145km/h. I can hear the same sound but much much lower all the time but at the given speeds it is really loud. Would this also indicate a bad (or two bad) couplings?
__________________
Patrik Sjoblom....1993 MB 320 CE......Bought Jan 2001. Only 16.8 mpg
Stockholm.........Silvermetallic....DEFA immobilizer/alarm + Original larm
SWEDEN............17x7.5 ET35 wheels with 215/45-17 Kumho 712 ECSTA .

Last edited by patrik_the_swede; 08-06-2002 at 08:12 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 08-06-2002, 12:56 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Posts: 18
The faulty coupling did not make any running noise in my case. More likely to produce a noise would be a faulty centre bearing or the differential. Is the idling speed too high when you are engaging D or R?
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 08-08-2002, 04:09 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Stockholm, Sweden
Posts: 44
The idling is ~750rpm in (N) and moving the stick to (D) or (R) it goes down to ~650rpm. The car jumping/moving is less notice from (N) to (R). Though, I can see a small oil leak from the differential maybe I only need to fill up the oil (and fix the oil leak)?

Or I maybe need to install the vibration damper (#124 350 06 72) 'to the rear axle center piece mount of rear axle carrier' suggested in MB Ref 41/018, date 950401? (The car has only travelled 122.000 km). P.S I have subscribed on http://www.alldatadiy.com/ for 24.95USD/year for my car.
__________________
Patrik Sjoblom....1993 MB 320 CE......Bought Jan 2001. Only 16.8 mpg
Stockholm.........Silvermetallic....DEFA immobilizer/alarm + Original larm
SWEDEN............17x7.5 ET35 wheels with 215/45-17 Kumho 712 ECSTA .

Last edited by patrik_the_swede; 08-09-2002 at 04:53 AM.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:05 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2011 Pelican Parts - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page