I have a 450Sl engine that I removed from my 79SLC. It is a rebuild (to the best of my knowledge) with approximatly 48,000 miles. It developed a lower engine knock (not severe) but the indications are a loose rod cap on #1 cylinder. Some questions,
Note, this is a complete engine, sans alternator, smog pump(never had one), and A/C. It would have an SEL oil pan on it.
The engine # is 116-984-12-002334
1. what might I be getting into to repair this, I'm not much of a mechanic myself but would have good help.
2. this engine ran very well I've had it to over 120MPH and it "hummed", no overrev or anything like that. Much later I began to notice a feint knock which got more pronounced over a short period, I swapped engines because I was able to locate a replacemant at a ridiculously low price from a wrecked SEL.
3. would I be better off to part this out, sell it as is (what might be a resonable price, and would this be a good forum to sell in?), or repair it then sell.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks to all that have responded to me on other questions to this forum and any I hope to get from this inquiry.

The engine is worth about 10% of what you paid for the other engine.

Because the real cost to fix it is probably two to three times the price of a used 450 motor and because the motors never go bad, the chances of a sale are remote.

__________________
Steve Brotherton
Continental Imports
Gainesville FL
Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1
33 years MB technician

Steve: Thanks for your prompt reply. You certainly don't mince words. I also have never heard of a Mercedes engine going bad and I've had two and my brother two and I've known a lot of owners. Believe me no one was more surprised than I when this engine developed this knock. There was no mistaking it as other than a lower engine knock. As I said in my inquirey I knew the engine was a rebuild and if the engine#002xxx is correct it is an older engine as well. I can only wonder if the problem was one of sloppy rebuild or something else. I can guess that a less than accurate torqueing of the rod cap bolts could result in what appears to be the problem. The work was done in Texas (Austin area I believe) and there doesnt seem to be any way of finding out who did it, I wish I could just to see what their response would be. Thanks again, I guess I can chalk this one up to experience.

The heads and cams might be worth some money. If you want to put something into it to recover, take the heads off and clean them up some.

Part of the problem with your motor IS the fact that it failed after a rebuild. The short term failure makes the rest of the unit suspect.

__________________
Steve Brotherton
Continental Imports
Gainesville FL
Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1
33 years MB technician

Steve: I totally agree, given the short term failure the complete rebuild is suspect. Once I get the other engine running well I'll mull over the fate of this one. By the way, just replaced the rear crank seal on the other and it was shot, had turned/spun and of course was the source of the oil leak. Next item is the accumulator (hot start problems), no question. Thanks again. Lee

Q. does the 450SL engine have a harmonic balencer and if so is it in/part of the main pully at the front bottom of the engine.
The reason for this question. I have been told that if this is faulty it can produce a knock in the engine. As mentioned I had a knock in the 450SL engine that appeared to be due to a loose rod cap on #1. When I switched engines, putting in the 450SEL engine, guess what, THE SAME KNOCK IS PRESENT. I used the alternator, power pump, and A/C from the old engine. I had to take the pully off the 450SL engine to get the belts to line up. IS IT POSSIBLE THAT THE KNOCK PROBLEM COULD BE IN THAT PULLY. It is, other than the parts mentioned and the exhaust manifolds, and oil pan, the only other part switched. If this could be the problem how would I check to find out if this pully/harmonic balencer is the knock problem?
Thanks again for your preious responses. Lee