W140 Rear View Mirror Replacement - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

daddiojiggy · #16 03-06-2003, 06:18 PM

i've just sent you an email in your pm file

KenP · #17 03-06-2003, 08:00 PM

KenG-
Delighted to hear you fixed your mirror... although, I think you're being generous thinking that mirror trim cost a whole dollar... :-)
Hard to believe, isn't it? The good (no, make that great) news is that its pretty easy to fix once you take it apart and see what's broken...
Feels great to do a 1000 dollar repair for nothing, doesn't it?
Take some of that savings and buy something cool for yourself (or better yet, your spouse). What better way to convince them that the Benz in the driveway is a good idea and to demonstrate your now obvious mechanical prowness??? We promise not to tell.
Regards, KenP

h_shek · #18 06-11-2003, 11:47 AM

Can I ask?

I have a 92 and with the motor mirror minus the auto diming and the alarm lights.

My mirror dosen't have any problem as yet. motors operate at all directions and the mirror holds. HOWEVER, something is broken inside as I can hear small pieces of things rolling inside as I turn or go over something.

Any idea of what it will be? I think I better wait until it completely breakdown before risking to take it off!

KenP · #19 06-11-2003, 08:20 PM

Sorry, don't know whether your mirror is similar in construction to the one I repaired or not...
But, if it looks anything like the pictures in this series of posts, I don't think you're risking anything by taking it apart. It really is a simple assembly. You could have the broken pin holders, letting the spring clips to float around in there causing the rattle.
Let us know how it works out.
KenP

h_shek · #20 06-11-2003, 10:50 PM

Thanks... i will try and see how difficult it is to attack the thing. Pity that I have to go out of town will let you know incouple of weeks!

thanks again!

Ken Griffith · #21 12-05-2003, 05:48 PM

Sorry, I'm not the one with the pictures. The way I went about it is I removed the trim from the top by the dome lights and removed the screws there and took down the mirror assembly. Once you have the thing where you can work on it it's pretty simple to take the mirror housing apart and see where it all goes and what might be broken. Almost always the trip pieces that hold in the clips.

Good luck.

KG

KenP · #22 12-05-2003, 07:50 PM

Bourman, if you still want the pix, send me a pm with your email and I'll see if I can dig them up and get them to you.
KenP

bourman · #23 12-06-2003, 01:05 PM

Well, when I figure how to take this puppy off, I will add to the picture list. Ken P. has some real good pictures to share, different mirror than mine, but same guts and same problem. Thanks Ken!

More pictures to follow.

In this series, I show how to carefully pop off the light lenses and remove the light and foor control panel. Makes it easier to see the mirror components, but not necessary if you know what you are doing!

Most plastic pieces just pop off, but DO NOT FORCE. I see on mine the tab has been broken off where someone took a BIG screwdriver to it!

The control/light panel has two metal clips, I'm pointing to them.
Gently pry these towards you, and pull down, the part towards the windshield will fall down and you can slide the unit out towards the windscreen. It has plastic "U" like clips on the other end that hook over the headliner, so do not pry on this end!

When Ken P. tells me how to get this baby off the roof, I will add more pics.

BOBB

bourman · #24 12-06-2003, 08:35 PM

I will include a series of pictures, in order, of the repair. Some are not too bright, needed three hands!!

DO NOT USE FORCE on any of these procedures!

1. Pop off the plastic cover at the base of the mirror. Gently pry and it will pop off.
2. I removed the light and control panel, but this is not necessary. See thread above for process.
3. Remove one Philips screw.
4. You will see two layers of POP-Aluminum, one lighter than the other (in my case). Pry between them with a screwdriver. It may take a good tweak, but the mirror is snapped into place with a spring loaded ball like connector. Good thing I waited to undo the wiring harness! It stopped the mirror assembly from hitting the console!
5. Disconnect the wiring connector(s) and feed the harness through the opening in the mounting.
6. Bench time.
7. Gently pop apart the mirror clam shell. I did not use any tools, just my finger nails. The bottom seems to pop open the easiest.
8. Several parts start to fall out, the broken plastic clips (you will see them in one pic), the flat spring tabs and the remote control.
9. Gently remove the ball joint from the mirror backing. It slides right out with the black plastic mounting board.
10. Unplug the auto dimming wiring plug and set aside the mounting and garage opener.
11. Gently remove the mirror glass from back plastic clam shell and set aside.
12. Locate the two broken tabs (or where they were). Ken has a good picture of this.
13. Option One: Drill two small holes, one on either side of the reinforcing plastic ribs where the tabs once were.
14. Thread either a small wire or tie-wrap thru the holes from the inside –out and back in. I may re-do this option, but then again...
15. Loop the wire or tie-wrap on the inside. Do not tighten all the way.
16. Option two: Drill one small hole in the middle of the two reinforcing ribs and screw in a small (I mean small) sheet metal screw.
17. Replace the mirror glass in front clam shell.
18. Replace the mirror mounting bracket.
19. Place the two spring tabs (flat thingies) in your loops first and tighten wire or tie-wrap so the top of the spring tab is just below the outer edge of the clam shell. Look at other end and match height. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. You want the spring tab to have some movement so it doesn’t slip out of the other end.
20. Gently push the spring tab under the non-broken plastic tab on the shell. You can gently spread the shell to accomplish this. The spring tab will snap in place. Make sure it is evenly centered in the plastic tab.
21. Now, if the ball joint feels too tight, move it around, clean off the ball and wipe (use a Q-Tip) sparingly with Silicone, do not spray! Wipe clean again, all over the ball. You want some resistance.
22. Replace the wiring connector(s).
23. On the rear clam shell, replace the rubber door opener buttons and the little clear led lens. Note there is a flat side (see pic).
24. Replace garage opener in outer shell and route wire appropriately.
25. Gently snap the two halves together, top first, then bottom. It should snap together easily. Do not force.
26.Place mounting spring (with the two little balls on either side) into the rectangle slot in the stationary mounting bracket mounted to the roof. Place one ball into the slot and use your thumbs to snap in the other side – POP, it snaps in.
27. Replace Philips screw.
28. Connect connector(s).
29. Replace plastic cover.
30. BINGO, you just saved $1K!

The first set of pictures will be in this note, and the remainding in the next reply.

Thanks to Ken and all those who made this possible!

Just for kicks, I think I will go see if MBZ parts counter can order the front 1/2 of the shell! LOL!

BOBB

bourman · #25 12-06-2003, 08:36 PM

Here are the remainding pictures.

BOBB

myarmar · #26 12-06-2003, 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bourman

13. Option One: Drill two small holes, one on either side of the reinforcing plastic ribs where the tabs once were.

I was able to make holes trough these reinforcing ribs with the hot paper clip. Then put copper wire throgh, shape it as close as possible to copy the shape of the missing tabs and soldered in loop. This way you can't see anything from outside.
Mike

KenP · #27 12-07-2003, 07:33 AM

BOBB-
Congrats! Sounds like a good news story all around.
On my repair, I put some RTV sealant/adhesive on the backside of the mirror face where it fits the ball mounting just for a little added strength.
There are a number of ways to fix this once you get the mirror out... as you found out, that's the tough part.
The really nice thing is that you can do this repair on a counter/bench top with a cold beverage at hand.. and not have dirt/oil dripping on your face while on your back under the car!
Glad information/pix helped... that's what this Forum is all about.
KenP

bourman · #28 01-23-2004, 12:54 PM

See post dated 12-06-2003 from Bourman
All details and pictures included. Easy to fix yourself.

bourman · #29 01-23-2004, 12:57 PM

See post dated 12-06-2003 from Bourman
All details and pictures included. Easy to fix yourself.

JimF · #30 02-28-2004, 12:23 PM

Got a chance to use the procedure to fix my wobbling mirror: somebody 'tweaked' it probably while cleaning and broke the internal plastic cliips.

Tnx to the procedure it was fixed in 30 mins; the length of time it took for the JB weld -kwik- to set. Good as new, actually probably better!