16vlv front lower control arm bushings
 

I am building a spare set of lower control arms for my 16-vlv. I have already pressed in new ball joints, but the bushings are giving me a run for my money. I removed the aluminum sleeve insert and I cannot for the life of me figure out how to remove the split bushing set-up......... Any ideas??????:mad: :D

Been there.

I presume you have already tried using a chisel to whack outward on the metal flange that protrudes a bit to no avail.

There are 2 methods that both worked for me:

1)
Drill a hole through the metal face (to one side of the bolt hole) on one bushing so that you can use a big punch to knock the other bushing out from behind. Striking from behind seems to be so much more effective.

2)
Get a bigger chisel and a bigger hammer, and force the (now bent) flange on the bushing toward the center of the bushing until it is cut or bent sufficiently to allow the extra clearance for the bushing to pop out. This method is more violent, and purges excess frustration.

3)
My cousin used a torch, which made a spectacular fireball as the rubber bits burned. This is more entertaining, but I'm not sure it helped that much over the drill method. Once the rubber burned away, he was able to 'strike from behind' with a chisel.

Actually, pressing them back in is the real trick. Pushing on the faces does not work (even with a 50 ton press!) because the 'tubes' on the 2 bushings hit each other before the 'outer rings' are seated in the arms. The rubber compresses before enough force is applied.(hard to describe, sorry, but you will see if you try it.)

I struggled with this problem on the first side, but I can save you the grief!
The perfect tool for driving in the bushings is a Steel Pipe Coupler for a 2 inch pipe with threaded plug in one end (plug is just to strike upon - Home Depot).
This is just a hair too tight, so you need to grind away the first 1/4 inch or so of threads (I used a Dremel tool), then it fits perfectly. If you happen to have a giant socket set, the right socket would probably work too, but this is way cheaper. You can either strike the coupler with a hammer, or press on it with a big vise.

It helps to use some lithium grease. Ordinary grease should not get on the rubber, because it will damage the rubber over time.

One last thing!
Note that the orientation of the bushings matters upon install. The front orientation is different from the back. Do you have a manual that covers this oddity?

PERFECT !!!!!!
 

csnow, Thanks a million. I thought about option one, but didn't know if it would work. I am going to do it that way. The "fireball" option was almost a reality, but I would have had too much fun in doing so. Thanks again. !!
Pat:)

Bushes
 

Recently replaced bushes upper and lower arms. Used this bearing separator to extract one bush from each arm and a bolt&nut together with a rachet socket size 36 to extract the other requiring less effort than the separator. Installation of new ones was not so difficult with a bolt&nut and thick washers having coated the bushes with silicon.

That's a nice separator.
I'm sure that would work for removal.

The 'nut & bolt & washer' install method will not work on your 190 unless you have just the right adaptors that press on the 'outer metal flange' on each bushing, like the special MB tool shown in the manual for this purpose.

Still struggling to explain without drawing a diagram, but the important fact is that pressing on the metal faces alone will not allow the bushings to seat completely.

I should have taken some pictures for community benefit.


Best of luck.

REAR lower C/A bushings
 

Does anyone have experience changing the REAR bushings on the front control arms? Also, where can I get them?
I want to change all the bushings while I'm doing the ball joints. I've ordered "bushing kits" from two places, and I keep getting front bushings only. Does anybody have the part #?

Thanks in advance,

Jeff Pierce