92 300 CE 104 water pump
 

HELP!!!!!!!!!


Where are the back bolts to the water pump? Are there 2? What tools do I need to buy to remove them. Between the A/C and the the intake I can only see what I believe to be one. Can I get to it with a long allen or a hex key socket or do I need to buy some 4-5 " long allen sockets?

I am a decent wrench. ( previously a Sun salesman and instructor) have done 60 K services on both a 300CE and a 500E and have replaced both the fan bearing and the belt tensionor in seperate surguries. I have never needed to get to something hard as this could be. (makes the nut on the back of the tensioner mounts look easy)

Please help as I need to get this thing burning gas soon

Moose :confused:

4 bolts through the housing. Originally 6mm hex heads. I use a 1/4 drive 6mm flex socket from snap-on mated to a 3" 1/4 extension, 1/4 to 3/8 adaptor and a 10" 3/8 extension. I bust sockets every other time I do this so.... I have 2. If the bolts have been swapped (I replace them) I use a snap on 13mm 12 pt flex extended socket, 10". The front 2 (by the belt shock) can be removed with a stubby 1/4 6mm hex. If you have already purchased the new pump you can see the bolt circle on the new one.


Some sadist came up with the bottem rear bolt on this engine.


Joe

I have removed the front two bolts but the back ones are the trouble. They are almost impossible to see.
I assume that this Snap on tool is a 1/4 drive on one end and a 3/8 drive on the other so you stick a 3/8 hex hey socket on the end and break em loose that way? Please expalin further?

This is not looking like fun. It looks like I will have to buy 60-70 dollars in tools for 2 bolts and then I can see it is best to replace 6mm bolts with new ones when doing this job. Is replacing the hex key bolts with 13 MM bolts a good option or just setting up the next guy in there with problems?

Moose

remove the t-stat housing, get a light under the intake pointing to the rear of the pump. the bolts are about 3/8" above the cast block and about 3/8" towards the front from the rear lip of the housing. they can be seen, barely.

I cant really describe the angle other than it's hard on the neck. I normally have the car raised, stand in front,lean over the intake and kinda aim my eyes between the pump body and the the intake. bad spot, if you can get 3 out, take a mallet and knock the pump clockwise, you'll see it then.

the 6mm flex is 1/4 drive, I use a adaptor to get to 3/8's drive.


Joe

Joe,
Thought i would let you know that the package has hit the ground and it a satanic little ( bleep). The trick on this engine ( mine has the cast intake and yours has the black runners. Correct? Mine has a 1 1/2" long bypass hose to the head.) is to simply have a 6mm wobble socket ( wrapped in electical tape for stability) and a 1/4 " drive set. The bottom bolt is done in a flash (make sure it's fully seated or you're toast) but the top bolt has to have a 4" 6mm hex key socket ran through the 1 1/4 " hole, to get to the top one,and then it can be taken out with a 3/8 drive. make sure you have the bolt in the pump when you install it as there is no way to return the bolt to it's place once on the block.

Thanks for your help in this matter as some people suggested buying $50 tools and waiting till next week) that would work on external 6 point bolts and not on the 6mm hex bolts that i am dealing with.

Am I the only one who has this engine?

Joe, Once again, thanks for your help.

Moose (holding water pump in my hands pondering ...)