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#31
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springs
HI Jeff,
My thoughts are to go maybe 1/2 inch or so down in the front and 1 to 1-1/2 inch down in the back to bring the car slightly lower and level. I've read in the past the leveling the car can improve handling. I am not looking for a radical shift but a subtle shift, partly for appearance. Thanks, Joel I am assuming the shims are in the back too? I've only done work on my front springs. |
#32
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I'm not sure about shims for the back (I haven't done rear suspension work on this car either). But Fastlane does not list shims for the rear. Maybe someone else can answer that question. Or call Phil (the 888# at the top of this site). I've dealt with him, and he is fantastic. He really know his stuff.
But even if there are shims for the back, I doubt there's a 1-1.5 inch range in defference between largest and smallest. After all, the range for the front is only 5/8". Jeff Pierce
__________________
Jeff Pierce Current Vehicles: '92 Mercedes 190E/2.3 (247K miles/my daily driver) '93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon (263K miles/a family truckster with spunk) '99 Kawasaki Concours Gravely 8120 Previous Vehicles: '85 Jeep CJ-7 w/ Fisher plow (226K miles)'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon '53 Willys-Overland Pickup '85 Honda 750F Interceptor '93 Nissan Quest '89 Toyota Camry Wagon '89 Dodge Raider '81 Honda CB 750F Super Sport '88 Toyota Celica '95 Toyota Tacoma '74 Honda CB 550F |
#33
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The spring pads / rubber collars come in four thicknesses for the front and three for the rear. You can identify your car's pad thickness by looking very carefully around the edges. You will see a series of little "bumps". The bumps or numbs correspond to the thickness of the pad.
I my opinion a properly setup car will have a slightly higher rear than front. This is because the front ride height doesn't change but the rear does. You drive the car fully unloaded and all the way to fully loaded: 5 passengers and a trunk full of luggage. I have seen measurements elsewhere on this site using the rubber jack points under the car, right behind the from wheels and just ahead of the rear wheels of abut 7.5". Hope this helps.
__________________
'03 E320 Wagon-Sold '95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex '93 190E 2.6-Wrecked '91 300E-Went to Ex '65 911 Coupe (#302580) |
#34
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compressing springs
Sounds like I'm lucky to be alive. I just r/r the front spring on a '79 300TD. I released the upper ball joint and lowered the bottom arm till it looked like the spring should fall out, I had to poke it out with a tire iron. I rented a $60 tool that fit inside the spring , it had 4 hooks on it. it got "captured" and I later had to disassemble it to remove. I'm guessing it had 500 pounds or so of pressure to get it squeezed 2". It took 9 hours for the whole job. I hate this kind of work, but have been doing it 4 decades, and so feel a little in control. It's scary. Beginners, DONT do it. Lorenzo in Montana.
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#35
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Ride height
I'll measure the ride height and see what I come up with.
Thanks, Joel |
#36
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Ride Height
haasman,
Would you happen to know the ride height for a 190E? (or where I can get the info) Thanks, Jeff Pierce
__________________
Jeff Pierce Current Vehicles: '92 Mercedes 190E/2.3 (247K miles/my daily driver) '93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon (263K miles/a family truckster with spunk) '99 Kawasaki Concours Gravely 8120 Previous Vehicles: '85 Jeep CJ-7 w/ Fisher plow (226K miles)'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon '53 Willys-Overland Pickup '85 Honda 750F Interceptor '93 Nissan Quest '89 Toyota Camry Wagon '89 Dodge Raider '81 Honda CB 750F Super Sport '88 Toyota Celica '95 Toyota Tacoma '74 Honda CB 550F |
#37
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Jeff,
I don't have any ride height info on the 190E. I will look around. If you find it, please forward. Jeff
__________________
'03 E320 Wagon-Sold '95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex '93 190E 2.6-Wrecked '91 300E-Went to Ex '65 911 Coupe (#302580) |
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