rear sway bar links / pull
 

I got new ball joints, tie rods, etc last summer for my w123, I have noticed that it has been pulling to the right more. When i switched to the 17s, I notice it a lot more. I adjusted the Steering box, and it helped a little, but my car has a lot of miles on it, and the steering box does have about 2 inches of play one way, then 2 inches the other tangentally to the steering wheel. I noticed that my rear sway bar links are shot. Could this be causing the problem? Should I upgrade to a bigger sway bar while Im fixing those? The TD has the biggest sway bar right?
Thanks for your help

BUMP...

I pulled an engine and tranny from a 82 300D in 8 hours...woo hoo.

So what do you guys think about my problem?

That much play in a 123 steering box is way too much. Either rebuild it or better find a really good used one (hard to find sometimes, but worth it). Also check your idler arm bearings. Not too hard to do and great results.

Yes definitely replace your bad sway bar links. Big differences here. Also check your sway bar bushings in the rear. Easy to replace and again great results. The fronts are much more of a bear but again great results with low cost. You’ve got to clearly see where and how to get them out. I have done them on three 123 cars. Pain yes, but worth it.

8 hours is very good. Obviously you are taking your time yet moving along.

Thanks for the suggestions. I am just going to get rear sway bar links and put them in for now because I think that Im going to upgrade to a bigger rear sway bar from a wagon.

I will look more into my front suspension later. Since pulling the engine isnt that hard, I might pull the engine and do the sway bars and do the rear oil seal on the oil filter housing and stuff like that. You know freshen up everything. School starts here in two and a half weeks, so I need to get ready for that. it may become a winter project...for now I have to fix the safety related items first. Thanks.

I took apart the rear end. I took the pumpkin and axles out, but now the car sags so low that the wheels are bound in the fenders. Who has an idea for me? I think im going to make a metal plate then attach it to the four bolts in the back, then attach it to the place where the diff bolts to. IS this good?

Front sway bar. If I take the front sway bar out, will the springs explode out. To me it looks like it?

Don't take the front sway bar out to change the bushings. Leave it in and take the bushings out.

Be extremely careful with springs. IF IN DOUBT DON'T. Mercedes springs are made of high-quality metal and have a lot of engergy stored in the.

"I took the pumpkin out" what does this mean? The differential?

No, I took the engine and tranny, drive shaft, and the differential, and axles out of a 82 300D because I bought this parts car, and my dad said hed give me money for the drive train. But when I took the differential out which bolts in 4 places on top, then two on back which go to a bushing, then up to four bolts on top, well when I took that out, now the car sags, so I need a way to make it so that the car doesnt sag, so I was saying to make a plate and bolt it in there because I want the diff out.

The front sway bar, I wanted to take it out of the parts car so that I could make a thicker one for my w123 coupe. I was just wondering if the springs will push the car down you know what I mean.

If I changed the sway bar bushings id do it in the car now that I know where they are and such.

Thanks

Please also keep in mind that the 17" rims as well as the huge 235/45/ZR17 tires that you are using will definetely contribute to warn out suspension components and steering box. These tires present huge loads to the steering and suspension components of your car which have been designed to work with much smaller tires and wheels.