'82 300D timing chain replacement???? HELP! - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

#1 08-26-2002, 10:24 AM

I am replacing the timing chain on my '82 300D. I separated the link and attached the new chain to the old one. I manually turning the engine at the crankshaft and kept tension on the old chain and new chain at the cam sprocket so nothing would slip. Everything went very well until I disconnected the old chain from the new one and noticed there was one tooth gap between the ends of the chain. At first I thought it had slipped while removing the old chain, but it couldn't because I used wire to secure the chain to the sprocket while removing the old chain. So, I decided to move the link to close the gap. Now the chain is too short to put the chain tensioner back in. I can put tension on the chain and spin the engine over by hand and it shows 0deg diff from cam to crank. The tensioner comes about 1/2 in from seating all the way into the block. What kind of problem have I created? I am about to go back and compare the number of links on the old chain vs. the new one. Any ideas???

engatwork · #2 08-26-2002, 11:10 AM

Make sure the tensioner is all the way in the "retracted" position. You may need to manually compress it.

#3 08-26-2002, 11:14 AM

The tensioner is new and the spring has not been installed yet. The plunger is back as far as possible. I'm about to go and compare the number of links between the two chains.

DieselGuy · #4 08-26-2002, 11:14 AM

To retract it, you have to pull it all the way out and push it in again from the back side. The spring inside puts tension on the piston and rachets it forward. That might explain why you are a 1/2 away from the block.

#5 08-26-2002, 11:27 AM

How far should the plunger be sticking out of the housing? There are two levels to the plunger, 1 is the diameter of the barrel, and the other is about 10mm. The 14mm section sticks out about 8mm, meaning the total length is about 13-14mm beyond the end of the tensioner barrel. Is this normal for full retracted position? Or should it be flush with the end of the barrel?

Thanks for all the responses!!!

engatwork · #6 08-26-2002, 11:36 AM

If memory serves me correctly, I don't remember more than less than 1/4" sticking out. You need to get your chain put back together then get the tensioner in. Is the slide arm that the tensioner pshes against all the way back too like it is supposed to be?

#7 08-26-2002, 11:52 AM

The rail goes all the way to where it touches the head. It appears to be free moving. I think the tensioner may not be completely retracted. I'll check it in the next couple of days.

Thanks,