I am preparing to replace the rear struts on my recently acquired 300TD (self leveling rear suspension) and have a couple questions. In reading the manual it looks like the rear seat (middle row) has to come out to access the fasteners for the top of the struts and the hose connection. Is this correct? Also, once I replace the strut do I just hook the hose from the accumulator up with the strut in the fully compressed position? What do I need to do to get the new hydraulic fluid in it and the air out?
Thanks

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Jim

ttt

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Jim

After an extensive search I found the tops of the rear struts/shocks in the 300TD. Unfortunately the allen head fastener shown in the picture securing the top of the old strut is fixing to get drilled. I guess my allen socket for this size is worn out. All it does lately is tear the allen head fastener up - time to make a trip to Sears for exchange . If anyone has an exploded view of what all is at the top of the strut it would be much appreciated.
My plans are to replace the 1/2 shafts here sometime today after I get going.

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Jim

if you're heading to Sears, check this out:

http://www.sears.com/sr/product/summary/productsummary.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@1534735636.1030896948@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccjgadcgdkkegkjcehgcemgdffmdfin.0&vertical=SEARS&bidsite=&pid=00952154000

if i'm reading correctly, you damaged the allen screw, but this may be able to pull that out...

Just finished with the 1/2 shafts. I am physically beat. Would not have taken so long but about the time I got everything buttoned up I noticed I had forgotten to move the shims from the old shafts to the new ones. Took only about 1 hour to remove/replace the second time.
I'll get back on the rear struts/shocks tomorrow.

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Jim

First of all use a top quality allen. One made in Germany,U.S.,or Japan. Secondly get a micro torch like the one folks out here use to debase their dope. Heat the allen screw enough to melt the micro encapsulating material that keeps them tight. They should come right out. Remember to use blue lock tite for re assembly. Just put em in and hook up the hydraulics. They should self bleed. Why are you replacind the cylinders anyway? Are they leaking externally?

Post Script:The two rubber buffers at the top of the cylinders are two different thicknesses. Don't get em mixed up.


Peter

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Auto Zentral Ltd.

Thanks Peter.
I just purchased the car a couple weeks ago and am going through the suspension. The front struts were leaking. I will have to pick up a little heater to use to heat up the allen screws. I was just planning on going ahead and drilling the one out that is boogered up and pick up a new fastener. But since I have to get something to heat it with anyway I may be able to back it out.

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Jim

I would really suggest some sort of small tip flame. I don't know if I would use anything like a heat gun for fear of heating other components. I still don't understand why you are changing the hydraulic cylinders. The front suspension has plain old shock absorbers, and if they are leaking ,they should be replaced. The things in the rear that look like shocks just extend and retract to whatever length to keep the car level under different loads. The shocks in the rear are actually those nitrogen filled spheres. If the cylinders aren't leaking, and load leveling works, I can't see spending the time or money. ????

Peter

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Auto Zentral Ltd.

They are in . Thanks for the help Autozen. Picked up what I needed for heating from WalMart.
I consider messing with the early 80's MB diesels my "hobby" and just wanted to change all the shocks and struts at the same time. In addition to the suspension I was able to change the timing chain and half shafts. Found the rubber seals for the turbo inlet deteriorated and will have to be replaced. Few other miscellaneous items I want to do (front/rear winshield seals, door seals, etc..) to it and it is coming along good.

Thanks for the heating tip. That is all it took.

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Jim

OK Jim,

Glad I could help. I just wish I had all your spare change.

Good luck,
Peter

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Auto Zentral Ltd.

Engatwork, I have 85 300TD (California with third rear seat) How do you remove cover? Does your wagon have the third seat? I have removed the 3 screws thst hold down long wood piece that coverc one end of panel over struts. and have removed 2 screws that are in the carpet panel itself. Panel will not budge. It seems to want to come out where I removed the 3 screws near the third seat storage well. But it will not come out - it will bend if I force it. Do you know if there are more than these 5 screws? Please help - I need to check struts badly - driver side has small leak - but leak runs down along springs - maybe the chydraulic onnection to the strut is loose? I say this because the leak does not seem to originate from the strut body. Ive already changed acumulators. I hace the lever rod to control valve already adjusted to the shortest length possible/ Springs (I believe) are shot - with no hydraulic pressure - back end is as low as it can go.
THANKS STEVE

engatwork

Having done the rears in our wagon (although a 124) the difference afterwards is great. Be sure to change the fluid as well. Takes a while but gets all the old crap out of the system.

With all of the 123 models I have owned (actually all cars) I replace the front and rear swaybar bushings. Rears are of course a piece of cake, the fronts take some time but are very much worth it. Flatter cornering and the car just feels tighter.

Haasman

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'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)

Hi you all,i have an 83 with a sagging rear,its not sooper low but low indeed,my ride is not bouncy so im suspecting my acumulators still have some life to them,does anyone know if i should change the rear shocks and acumulators or just acumulators??
help anyone??

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W123 1985 300TD naturally aspirated

The rear should not be sagging unless you have weak springs or the system is not working. There is a container under the hood for MB hydraulic fluid, with a dip stick, it also contains a filter to keep the crud out. The fluid travels from an engine mounted pump to a valve mounted on the rear carrier, with an arm attched to the rear toshion bar. If the car sags the fluid is pumped to the spheres (the spheres are containers filled with nitrogen and a rubber diaphram, the pressurized oil is on the other side of the nitrogen). The spheres are attached to the hydraulic struts (shock look alike) so the pressure of the oil and dampening of the accumulator controls the level. The stuts usually dont fail, unless they leak, the accumulators do go, as the diaphram ruptures it will be spongey, when there is no more gas left it becomes very stiff, and then you could cause damage.
When the torshion bar twists it lets in oil, releases oil, or in the netral position bypasses it back to the reservoir. it should be easy to check disconnect the control lever, the car should rise or fall, some control valves have a index for the neutral position.
This applies to 123 T, 126, and others. On 140 body cars the pump is mounted in tandem to the power steering, and on some the pump also provides some anti lock in the differential. On ADS vehicles there is an electric valve to control fluid flow to the struts, and solenoids attached to front shucks to do the same. On some 129s they use struts on all four wheels

Thanks for the valuable info peter,so if im understanding correctly it must be my accumulators right?
do you know if w124 accumulators cost the same as as w123 accumulators anre they same? is it an easier install?? i changed some w124 accumulators and the passanger side one was very hard to install,the thread on the accumulator itself was very hard to scrw back toguether on the center.

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W123 1985 300TD naturally aspirated