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#16
09-06-2002, 11:12 AM
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I think I saved the old blower
regulator from my car. Maybe it can be repaired?? So it would be a good candidate for you. I check it out and advise.
The use of an op-amp or comparator would result in precise switching point. In the graph above, there's a slope to the line. IE it takes about 30 deg change for the transistor to fully switch from ON to OFF (and vice versa). This is because there's not enough gain in the transistor. An op-amp supplies the missing gain (voltae gain = 100,000 typ) at the threshold point. But you still need the transistor to drive the fan and other extra parts (biasing resistors, bypass caps, filter caps, etc..). I think that any blower regulator would work nicely. So if you have one, consider using it. I can help figure out the connections if you need help. 
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#17
09-06-2002, 04:56 PM
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I just checked for the old blower regulator and . . .
it's been thrown away! I normally save 'goodies' like that but not in this case. Sorry.
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#18
09-08-2002, 01:33 PM
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Niel/Jim
This may be a simple way to run a puller fan using only existing components.. As the high speed fan relay circuit is all there , it can be isolated from the front fans by simply taking the fan feed wire from the relay to the low fan resistor off at the resistor common side and use this wire for puller feed . You will no longer have the high aux fan, [ no longer needed]but will still have low fan for /ac pressure operation. This point at the resistor is where the two circuits [high/low] come into common fan feed .[ fan is common to both circuits] So , in reality , you now have the stock sensor [ which can be changed to any temp/spec using Jims chart w/metal-film parellel resistor], and you have the K9 high fan relay/fuse circuit already sitting there behind the the fuse box...wiring and all !! nothing else needed .. What da ya tink ????
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Linear Mode
