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Old 09-13-2002, 01:22 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Princeton, NJ
Posts: 44
126/560 SEL ABS light and Idle

Hello again!

My ABS light comes on after about 2 minutes of driving and stays on for the duration unless I happen to turn the car off. I saw a couple of posting about cleaning the ABS sensor and that it was under the hood - I can't find it in the engine bay for the life of me - please help?

I read Tangas' post and fixed a major idle issue by pluggin a small vacum line back in just below the air filter assembly. THANK YOU!

However, there is a occasional shiver the car experiences. It runs very smooth and solid and even when warm, it will shiver on occasion. I have used FI cleaner and have looked around to make sure all vacum lines are intact - they are.

Thoughts, advise please?

I think it isn't the OVP as the light comes on after about 2 minutes - it seems I need to reset the ABS and make sure the sensors are clear - dunno how and where these are though.

Lastly, there is a slow leak in the ac hose that goes into the drier - i have the part, seems easy enough to do, but given that these are pressure lines - is this a DIY? The mechanic wants 250 - replacing this part and recharging with R12. Thoughts?

Thanks much !
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Old 09-13-2002, 01:48 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Surrey, Uk
Posts: 254
Check tyre sizes and inflation pressures. I have heard of different rolling radius on different wheels cause them to turn at different rpm, causing the ABS ECU to think it's getting bad information from the wheel speed sensors.
Mick J
'08 Chrysler 300CRD (MB OM 642 engine)
'95 E220 estate
'89 230TE (R.I.P.)
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Old 09-13-2002, 05:55 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Central Oregon
Posts: 91
Not sure about the ABS cleaning, but I would take a trouble light and look into the wheel wells. If anything is loose/damaged - that is a more likely spot.

Regarding the AC hose and recharge.
R12 is about $100 alone, assuming you have to go to the indy for the stuff. If you put it together and it still leaks, it becomes your problem to fix and you are probably going to pay the mechanic to fix the leak and recharge (again). If he fixes it the first time, it becomes his burden to make sure there are no leaks, and you only pay for the 1-time recharge.

( I just hope this does not start another thread about R12 certification, or the dreaded "bring your own parts to a mechanic" discussion )
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Old 09-14-2002, 01:31 AM
MikeTangas's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: So. Cal
Posts: 4,430

Glad you fixed your vacuum leak through one of my posts. Now to locate your OVP. You'll find it just inboard of the brake master cylinder, mounted on the firewall. The body will be silver with a red top, should also have a clear plastic flip top cover. Under the flip top you should have one, or two fuses depending on whether you have a newer OVP or not (newer has two). The fuse(s) is a 10amp blade type, not the ceramic type. Check the fuse first, replace if blown and see if that shuts down the ABS light.
Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.
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