Can't Remove Fan Shroud(!?)
 

Car: 1989 260E

I am cleaning my belt and pulleys after they became slippery from power steering fluid leaks. I removed the fan shroud's top clips, but I cannot slide the shroud past the fan's lower blades.

Before I employ brute force and risk damaging something, is there a proper way to finesse this thing out?

I think you may have to remove the radiator or the fan blade before you can ramove the fan shroud.

I always remove the fan.
 

Easy to do, if you have the proper tools.;)

I am about to run a search on removing the fan blade. If you see this reply, however, and want to post instructions here, feel free!

Oddly, I am not finding any details on my search; just "remove fan blade" type of comments with no instructions of how.

I saw one post that said the shroud could be worked artound the blade, but I don't seem to have the clearance, unless I bend it. i am just very concerned about damaging the radiator.

BTW, the belt is mostly off, and the pulleys are slick with PS oil. It is amazing that a seemingly trivial thing like the shroud would get in the way. :confused:

Got it Off!
 

Was able to remove the fan by removing the three allen bolts. No special tools; just an orinary L-shaped hex wrench. (I guess the 260E has only three of these vs four as I read elsewhere.)

I was also able to download a diagram for how to thread the belt over the pulleys, as someone was good enough to post in another forum.

Looks like all the pulleys are pretty tight, though I only have 7, not 8 (no air pump). I was able to remove the belt only after it jumped the alternator pulley when my cleaning rag got caught in it :rolleyes:

I recall yet another thread which said it can be replaced by loosening the alternator; since I have the fan and shroud off already, would that be preferable to loosening the tensioner?

Eric,
A special tool is required to stop the fan clutch from spinning so that you can remove it.
I bought the tool, but someone else may know how to improvise something. Perhaps someone out there has a picture of that little slot the tool sits in?

Even though I have the right tool, I decided to cut the shroud into 2 pieces for easier access. I made cuts at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock.
I then drilled holes in the shroud to receive a wire tie on each side to hold the pieces together. Not 'pretty' but this has worked great for me, and been a big time saver.
If I ever were to decide to 'go back', a new shroud is like $20, so no big deal.

Best of luck,
Corey

Corey,

I considered doing just that -- untill I located the allen bolts. They came out easily, and all I had to do was hold the L-shaped hex wrench with one hand and the blade with another. No special tools needed. (I just hope it goes back in as easily. :confused:

If you loosen the alternator to remove the belt, how do you plan on tightening the belt once you place it back on??

Just do it the right way and loosen the big 17 or 19mm (forgot which size) bolt that goes through the heart of the tensioner about a half turn, then loosen the tensioning rod (13mm) a few turns to lift up the pulley.

Installation is reversal of removal ;) :p

Paul,

What you said is what I ended up doing. The belt had already come off in the rather unconventional manner I mentioned earlier, and I needed to get it back on.

I did not notice much loosening of the tensioner pulley. Perhaps I did not turn the hollow tensioner enough. It did not move much at all, so if it is boken it is broken in the "tight" position rather thn the "loose," which I presume to be the preferable state.

When I reinstalled it I pulled the last loop on over the idler pulley above the alternator with just a bit of difficulty. Then I tightened the tensioner. The tensioner pulley went from somewhat moveable to not at all moveable.

The belt seems tight, by both feel and my ability to, once again, be able to turn the steering wheel lock to lock wiith just one finger while the car is idling, which indicates the belt is gripping the power steering pulley more solidly than it was before. I also heard that high-pitched groan/hiss that is normal on lock-to-lock turns.

My question now is whether the slippage was *more* the result of the loose belt, or the oily belt? There is some residual ATF fluid leaking from the pump, but not nearly as much as before since I replaced it with Valvoline with its special seal-swelling additives. I plan to drain it and use the Valvoline Synthetic PS fluid which I found, and which I understand is really good for seals.

All in all, it is clear now that my loose, slippery belt was responsible for 1) my battery not charging fully (belt not engaging alternator pulley) 2) overheating (belt not engaging water pump pulley) 3) "heavy" steering (belt not engaging PS pulley).

Hope the problem is solved for now..

Hey Eric,
There is a center bolt on the fan clutch which does require special tools to remove. You had a good idea doing it the way you did.
Feel free to e-mail me if you need instructions for work on your 300E. I have the W124 CDs and don't mind sharing info.