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  #1  
Old 09-29-2002, 06:33 PM
rhinobenz
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88 300E will not start...It appears to have Bronchitis

OK. Little background. Please bare with me Car started displaying signs of OVP trouble within last 2 months. Intermittent activation of ABS light followed by rough idle and engine hesitation. This began getting worse of late...frequently when i started the car the probelm would exist right at start up and would persist longer then usual. The OVP relay is the older (faulty) unit. 10 amp Fuse is intact. Now on to my real problem. Yesterday i drove the car for about an hour without any problems. After shutting it down for about 30 minutes, when i ateempt to start it there was a bit of a "sneeze" or back fire, then it just cranked but refused to start. Yes, It has gas in it. Evetnually had to have it flatbeded home. Pulled the coil wire and checked the spark and got a nice strong spark. So I concluded it wasnt getting gas, maybe a bad fuel pump or plugged filter. I proceeded to remove the air cleaner and i broke down teh fuel line taht feeds the rear of the throttle body (not sure but there is 2 lines coming from rear of car?) fuel line, when the key was turned on gas flowed freely. Now Im not so sure its fuel related. Then it dawned on me that the "butterfly" (for lack of a better name) on the throttle body was not opening, so i thought maybe im not gettting any air in the mix. I had a friend crank it over while i opened the throttle body just a pinch and she fired right up (though continued to run rough and only at above 1000 RPM. If he came off the throttle it would stall. So now im wondering what controls the opening and closing of the throttle body, or more dirrectly the air/fuel mix. Is this an electrical or vaccume issue? Could this be relate to the OVP? Please help!

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  #2  
Old 09-29-2002, 11:46 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 577
I keyed in "throttle body" in the search field and came up with quite a few hits. You might try reading thru all of this. Might help.

You mentioned ABS light being on back when this first started? It may seem like a long shot, but have you looked at the brushes in your voltage regulator? Sometimes ABS/SRS lights are an indication of worn brushes.
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  #3  
Old 09-30-2002, 06:50 PM
rhinobenz
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Im aware of the search engine, thanks for the tip. Regardless Im thinking I may have an electrical problem perhaps related to the air flow sensor/Electrohydraulic pressure actuator/differential pressure regulator or something Down these lines. If any one with knowledge of the fuel injection system has any reccomendations it would be greatly appreciated.
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  #4  
Old 10-03-2002, 11:57 AM
rhinobenz
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Does my car have a Mass Air Flow sensor or is it called an Air Plate position sensor?
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  #5  
Old 10-03-2002, 02:17 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Surrey, Uk
Posts: 254
Check for broken vacuum lines, especially if you are getting rough/delayed upshifts.
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'08 Chrysler 300CRD (MB OM 642 engine)
'95 E220 estate
'89 230TE (R.I.P.)
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  #6  
Old 10-04-2002, 01:39 PM
rhinobenz
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The vaccume lines are mostly white, right? Whats the best technique for checking for a vaccume leak on a car that will not start? Just crank it over and spray wd40 like mad?
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  #7  
Old 10-04-2002, 03:25 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 577
Shot in the dark below - The hose Benzmac mentioned, I'm pretty sure, is also on your vehicle and in the same general area.

Where to look for a vacuum leak?

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