plastic part on Booster Vacuum Hose
 

1. Anyone know a way to getting the Booster Vacuum Hose fix instead of getting a whole new one ($30) this is the hose that connect the break booster to the intake manifold.

2. Yes the little plastic that joins the hose broke on mine too, can I get this part separate rather then getting the whole hose?


Thai GI sends…

I was able to glue mine back on about 20K miles ago still going fine since. But moraine is right for $30, even $50 for mine, it still is a great deal. special since you are dealing with the brakes here.

Good Luck

Cost of Booster Vacuum Hose
 

I just ordered one from MBZ.org for $22.94 It was listed in the brake section parts.

Update on booster vacuum hose.

I finally got the hose in the mail....Put it on and it immediately crimped (restricting the maximum vacuum no doubt). It is obviously not as rigid as the factory original.

Money talks.

Brake booster hose: to tranny also?
 

Hi,

You probably noticed the two little outlets leading off of this booster hose, one of which leads to the 3/2 valve on top of the valve cover. This helps control shifting.

I assume that with the little nipple broken/cracked on your old booster hose, you had rough shifts? Just curious, as I'm trying to find out why mine (300CD) is shifting very hard all of a sudden.

I have the same problem with my booster cable (broken plastic nipple on the first vaccum outlet). Car still stops fine, though.

Did your shifts improve upon replacing the entire hose (assuming you worked out that crimping problem)?

Gil

My shifting hasn't changed. I haven't had the pleasure of driving another car to compare, but I don't have hard shifts. On the contrary, it shifts too early and too smooth.

When I got the booster vacuum all hooked up, I discovered that my car will now not shut off instantaneously like it should. It has a leak somewhere, I suspect in one of the doors. And now that I have the correct, restricted vacuum instead of full vacuum coming out of my lines that I rigged up before, there's not enough vacuum to make everything work right. The leak is allowing just enough vacuum to escape to mess everything up just a little.

Evertime I fix one thing, another problem pops up. One good thing though I did the rear brake pads tonight and they were a breeze.

Found where I have a fuel leak while I was under there. Now I'm thinking of yanking the heater motor, trying to fix the shakes the car has developed, changing the AT fluid and filter, and on and on and on.

Starter switch
 

Thanks for the info, Dodge,

You may want to test/replace the starter witch (vacuum part) to correct that run on problem. I had the same situation with mine, and it stopped upon replacing that part.

Good luck

Gil