W124 is very side wind sensitive.. - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Freestyler · #1 10-08-2002, 03:12 AM

My '86 300E is kind of 'directional-stability-impaired'.

When going straight out on the freeway the car will more or less shift lanes if hit by a side wind (not hurricane-like side wind. Just normal windy weather.) And if i go over the white lines on the road, the car moves what feels like 1 ft. to the side and back again when not on the white line anymore. -Makes it look like i'm drunk or incapable of controlling my car..

The behaviour is worse with the wide summer tires. But it is still very noticable on norrow winter tires too.

Is this caused by poor alignment? -Worn out swaybar bushings?

Freestyler

Cap'n Carageous · #2 10-08-2002, 08:29 AM

Mine does the same thing. You wouldn't think a car this sleek and a suspension so well designed would have this flaw. My Ford Areostar was as stable as the MB! Maybe this is a result of a 14 year old suspension. I would be interested to know if they were like this when new or if modifications like Sportline correct this condition.

drbrandini · #3 10-08-2002, 08:41 AM

Mine use to do that but after the install of H&R springs and Bilstein sport shocks problems is cured ......yeah I know inexpensive fix right !!Tell me about it

#4 10-08-2002, 09:30 AM

There is something wrong with this car. It could be any number of things including rear suspension bar links, front suspension problems, shocks or tires.

There is no company that puts more importance on aerodynamic crosswind stability than MB. For many years, their wind tunnel crosswind parameter that must be met has been 50 MPH crosswind.

This is the reason for the top being inset downward a fraction of an inch. This breaks up the crosswind air flow that is the biggest cause of crosswind instability.

Good luck finding the problem.

md21722 · #5 10-08-2002, 09:41 AM

I'm working the same issue on a '87 300D. Front control arms and rear links don't help this (I replaced mine for other reasons). So far I've changed struts and shocks and I think it helped a little bit. I'm changing the subframe bushings this week and will do springs if necessary. Want to get everything done at once ot save on alignments... Should know in a few days...

Brian

#6 10-08-2002, 09:54 AM

I've driven my 300E in cross winds so bad you couldn't stand up in it and found that it's one of the best cars I've ever driven in this regard. Only the BMW 7-Series was as good in my experience.

I suspect (also) that the tire pressures are incorrect. Use the maximum pressures shown on the inside fo the gas tank cover.

Other than suspension problems there is also the possibility of incorrect tires or alignment problems.

Be assured, a properly functioning 300E is superb in cross winds.

Gunawan · #7 10-08-2002, 11:15 AM

Bud, I my guess is the linkages at the rear suspension. Those bushings are brittle after 5 years or so. And also the bushing behind the brake assy. ussually got brittle. You might chek for them. Good Luck.

Freestyler · #8 10-08-2002, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Bud
I suspect (also) that the tire pressures are incorrect

Guaranteed not. - 3.0 psi in front and 2.8 psi in back. I have made a habit out of checking my tire pressures every time i'm refuelling. -Ever since "the incident" where my tire decided to abandon me at 110 mph in a curve..!

-Not exactly my finest day..

I know most of my suspension bushings have seen better days. I think that's where i'll start.

The car is also lowered quite a bit. Will that enhance such behaviour? (I would think it made the car more stabil)

Freestyler

csnow · #9 10-09-2002, 05:25 PM

1) Start with the front balljoints. Symptoms match best with this.
2) Next, suspect the idler arm bushings.
3) play in front hubs
4) play in the various balljoints in the steering rack
5) rear links
6) alignment- lowering throws off the camber. Bigger tires throws off the toe.

This is really not a symptom of worn swaybar bushings.
Best of luck.

#10 10-09-2002, 07:13 PM

I did not remember who a W124 would drive so nicely and true until I had a major faclift to my suspension/steering system.
At 235K, I replaced the 4 shock absorber and almost all rubber bushings in the suspension/steering system, along with 2 ball joints.
The road behaviour of the car deteriorates the first day it goes out of the factory. But it does it so slowly no one can see/feel the deterioration. After the job was done, I could not believe or remember my Benz being so stable in all conditions. A real bullet train. No outside force can move this car from the intended track.
Your problem (like mine) is most probably due to a combination of factors (age and mileage related). Tire, steering components, suspension, etc. Identifying THE cause might be difficult
JackD

mcdill · #11 10-09-2002, 07:33 PM

jack,

How much did you spend on your suspension overhaul?

-Matt

TomO · #12 10-09-2002, 08:02 PM

Our 124 wagon handles wonderfully on a track. Nevertheless, right after we took delivery of it last October, on the drive back to Wyoming, I noticed it seemed to pull to the right--usually. Was it the wind or the crown of the road? In November, on a trip to the midwest, we had it aligned at the same dealer we bought it from. Two hours after they started they were still horsing around--said they just installed new alignment software and were having trouble getting it to work right. Great. $80 later it felt the same, and the before and after spec sheets were also nearly identical. So I had my wife drive it along a concrete expansion joint in a parking lot and it was obvious that the front tracks 1/2 inch left of the rear. I seriously wondered if it had been in a wreck (clean carfax). At 100+ k miles I expect some wear, but I am surprised at how greatly that wear must affect the 124. After working under the car for a couple hours last week I was impressed with how complex (and adjustable) the suspension is. My conclusion is that either 1) somewhere along the line someone got the adjustments way out of whack and the dealer's mechanics couldn't get it back, or 2) it was in a wreck. For some entertainment, look on the CD ROM at the section on checking for whether a car has been bent (they take about a jillion measurements).

My ancient 1980 528i with 250k miles has the original suspension (except shocks). I had it aligned once when I bought it at 80k. It has driven miles and miles of wretched Wyoming washboard and is very loose, but tracks straight. I'm told it also has essentially the same simple suspension as the 2002. Who knows?

#13 10-09-2002, 10:49 PM

Total cost of the suspension job: $1300., including 4 OE shocks.
worth every penny
JackD

anthonyb · #14 10-09-2002, 11:03 PM

If it has not been replaced ever, try checking the steering stabilizer. It's a shock absorber bolted to the center link and idler arm underneath the car. It absorbs unwanted movement in the steering linkages (esp. going over bumps, but may be helpful in crosswinds as well). If there is no resistance (should be pretty firm), then it is bad.

My 300E used to be very unstable in crosswinds, but then I had the rear suspension links and the steering stabilizer replaced. Which of the two had the most effect, I'm not sure (was not able to find the opportunity to compare before and after between the two jobs), but the car is pretty resilient to wind now.

-anthony

csnow · #15 10-10-2002, 11:34 AM

One more thing for instability in 'crosswinds' or roads with 'tire troughs'.

I have noticed on several higher mileage 124s that some benefit from a steering box adjustment to take up excess play in the box itself (before the steering linkages are manipulated at all).
Mine was particularly bad, needing several turns, but a friend's improved noticibly with about one turn on the adjuster.

Have an assistant manipulate the steering wheel within the play range, and see how much movement there is before the steering arm moves. This adjustment will also improve 'center' feel, but don't overdo it, or there will be binding coming off of center [no need to ask how I know this].

I have heard that the rubber 'steering coupling' is also a wear item, though I have not yet personally seen a car with visible play there.
At $50, I could not justify a pre-emptive replacement.

My understanding is that the steering dampener is really only useful for compensating for other worn steering components, and does not actually cure anything. May prevent some 'bump steer' feedback under different conditions. Shocks and springs are also not leading culprits for this flavor of instability.

As others have mentioned, the 124 is indeed rock-solid in the crosswinds when everything is in order. I would rate it well above average in this regard. It certainly took a lot of weekends under the car (and some dollars) to get there, however.

Best of luck.