It's BAAaaack! We had really damp weather set in again, and this problem has come back. Rereading this thread has been worthwhile as a diary of the problem and recommendations.

I am responding to my own thread here to bump it to the top.

It's funny how this toggle switch type throttle condition requires the throttle to be bottomed out, not 1/8" or 1/4" from the floor, but ABSOLUTELY on the floor for it to just slam in the power. It jerks hard when it comes in at full throttle.

I guess I will recheck the thermal sensors and maybe disconnect the EHA as Steve suggested. This one is frustrating.

Thanks for any help you can offer. If I don't get any responses to this thread, I will post a new one to get attention.

Have a great day,

Bumping it to the top to go along with my new thread regarding this recurring problem.

Please see the new thread.

Thanks,

Larry,

If you have time, could you post the steps in replacing the distributor cap and rotor? Is this a simple DIY type thing?

Thanks,

glenmore
1991 300CE 116m

Replacing the dist. cap and rotor is as simple as falling off a log.

Grab the rubber cover on both sides sort of toward the bottom and expand both sides out to release the tabs. Pull up and forward and it's out of the way.

Loosen the three screws holding the cap in place and pull it forward and lift up. If you are only replacing the rotor, you can just fold it out of the way. If you're replacing the cap, pull all six plug wires loose from the plugs and lift the plastic loom from the top of the valve cover, remove the coil wire and take the wires, loom and cap to the bench. Lay the new cap next to it and move the spark plug wires one by one to the new cap. Now it is ready to go back in the reverse order.

Using an Allen loosen the screws holding the rotor in place and pull it forward. Reverse the order to replace the rotor.

Once the rotor is in place, put the cap back on and hook up the plug wires to the plugs and snap the loom back on the valve cover. Hook up the coil wire and screw the three dist cap screws back in place.

This isn't much different than any dist cap and rotor except for its position and lack of a distributor as we used to know it.

Good luck,

I would add that on my 300SEL, the bottom screw for the distributor cap was tricky to get in and out. I ended up using a hex bit socket with a universal joint adapter. It would also help to have small hands and good direct lighting.

Another possibility would be to remove the fan blade for more access room, but I didn't take the time to figure out how that's done.

I seem to remember that the three screws take a 5mm hex bit.

__________________
Mike Heath
1988 560SL Black/Palomino
1988 300SEL Black Pearl/Burgandy
1984 500SEC Anthracite Grey/Palomino