Oil in Overflow & No compression in #3
 

I have a 90 190 E 2.6 (167,000) that won't start. I have been reading old post all day and would now like some input as to what you all think it is.

11-01-02
I HAVE FOUND THIS OUT SINCE I POSTED THIS:
OIL OR FUEL IN OVERFLOW (WHITISH/MILKY STUFF FLOATING)
ZERO COMPRESSION IN #3 CYNLINDER- ALL OTHERS 165 TO 180
WHAT IS IT (HEAD GASKET, VALVES, OR PISTION?

I was driving for about 5 minutes this morning. I turned the car off for about 10 minutes, started it again, pulled up to a traffic light and all the sudden heavy stumbling for a few seconds, then it died. It wouldn't restart.

Here's what it does and what I have done.

1. Engine turns over, sometimes has ignition if I hold on the starter. It sometimes will run at 400 rpm for about 4 seconds then dies.

2. Fuel pumps are buzzing away for a second when the key is turned on and sound like they are both running normal.

3. Has spark, and I put new copper core's in 6 months ago.

4. I tried the forum recommendation of tapping on the OVP relay when starting and it didn't change anything.

5. The fuel filter is 1 year old.

6. Took off the distributor cap and cleaned the rotor and contacts.

7. Put in injection cleaner and dry gas today.

Can the OVP relay cause sudden stop like this. The car is cold and it still will not run. I was going to start the parts replacement game in the following order.
OVP
Fuel pumps
Fuel pump relay(only after pumps show no change)

I have heard so much about the dreaded OVP but no one posts if it ever fixes his or her problems.

Any insight would be helpful
Neil

All the parts in question are the same on a 300e. Try swapping parts.

Speaking of swapping, in your suggested replacement order, swap the fuel pumps and the fuel pump relay, the relay is a lot cheeper.

The OVP is the same. Good Deal, I would have never thought of that. Thanks for quick reply.

I wasn't sure the 3.0 engine has the same fuel system as the 2.6.

Swaped the OVP unit out of my 300E and still no change.
Swaped the MAS unit out of my 300E no change. Still won't start. So far thats a $150 saved in needless parts. I'm down to the fuel pumps unless someone can point me somewhere else. I'll try them tomorrow.

Important safety tip
 

Its a clear shot between the top fuel pump and the gas tan, be careful when you disconnect it (no smoking!)

Again, try the fuel pump relay first.

Also check for spark, and all associated connections.

I'm confused isn't the fuel pump relay inside the MAS unit. I can't find where you can separate the two. I did swap those units thinking the pump relay was in there.

Check your distributor rotor with a meter. These things go bad in between the two ends. I had this problem already. Felt very dumb after I swapped it out and car has been running well.

Jay when you say rotor ends do you mean rotor cap contacts to plug end. What did you replace to solve your problem just cap and rotor.? Was your spark yellow or blue? My is leaning toward yellow.

Correct. . where the rotor meets the cap and the other end goes to the spark plug wire electrode..

I don;t remember the color of the spark, but it was weak. Between the two ends of the rotor is a silicon like substance. The rotor usually burns up under the silicon and is undetected by the visual eye. In my case, I replaced it and the car started right up.
My cap was very good. Did not replace it..Only the rotor.
Felt very dumb afterwards when it worked..

I put new cap and rotor on today. No change,

I did open the Over flow tank and have whitish stuff floating around the top (thinking its oil). So I did a compression test and I have 0 compression on cylinder 3. All the others were 165 to 180. Where is this leading me. Is this a valve seals, pistion rings or head gasket? Techs I reall need your help on this one, I got two MB's down now.

Could be all that you posted and then some. You'll never know until the head is removed.
Sorry for the bad news...