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Power Door Lock Problem
I tried looking at the archives and didn't find an answer... so here I am posting my problem and hopefully would find a resolution to it.
my power door locks are not functioning like they should be. I am trying to get this fixed as its annoying to have to manually open all the door locks when having passengers in the car. When I open the driver's door.. I would expect that all 4 door locks would unlock. Besides the driver's door.. none of the other 3 unlock. When I lock my driver's door.. only the front passenger door locks and the rear doors need to be manually locked. When open the trunk... none of the door locks open ( actually, now I can't remember if the driver's door opens or not). However, when I lock the trunk.. the front passenger door locks as well. Basically... Driver door: unlocks when I unlock with key.. locks when I lock with key Front Passenger: does NOT unlock when I unlock driver's door.. LOCKS when I lock driver's door. Rear left: does NOT unlock or lock when I unlock or lock driver's door. Rear right: does NOT unlock or lock when I unlock or lock driver's door. Trunk: Locks front passenger door when locking trunk. All others don't lock. Unlocking trunk does not unlock any of the 4 doors. Since the front passenger door actually does lock.. I don't think its the pump thats bad.. but a vacuum line from what I hear on this board. I have no idea how the lines look like and/or access them. I know there is the pump thats located in the trunk enclosed in a rubber protector... thats about it. Any valuable input is much appreciated. thanks. Sharif |
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The vac pump for the locking system is in the trunk, spare tire well, I think. Has a single hose, provides vac to lock the doors and pressure to unlock.
You can test the locking system with a mitivac hand pump -- vacuum should lock all doors, gas filler, and trunk. Pressure should unlock everything. The pump must run and provide vac when the driver's door, passenger front door, or trunk is locked, and also provide pressure when any of those three are unlocked. Check the electrical connection -- it can get corroded and no provide enough juice to the pump. Also check the condition of the rubber connector for the vac/pressure line -- if it is in poor condition, insufficient vac or pressure will be delivered to the system. If the pump is OK, then you will need to find the leak -- either you have a bad rubber hose connector or a bad actuator. The door actuators are in the bottom of the doors, the trunk one is on the right side of the lock, under a cover panel, and the filler door one is on the upper right side of the trunk, behind a panel. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
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Quote:
1) what is a mitivac and where would I find one? 2) where would I check the electric connection for the pump? My gut feeling is that the pump is fine.. but the rubber connectors(I have no idea how they look like) are the ones to blame. Is it a tough task to replace these rubber connectors? Also.. does every door have an actuator or is it one that powers all the doors? I am curious cuz I would like to narrow down the possibilities before attempting to fix this problem. thanks once again |
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1) This is a Mityvac. http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/MIT-4000.html
2) Pump and connection is in a rubber "triangle" next to the spare tire. Most common cause is loose rubber connection on a hose or a bad actuator. There is one actuator per door (this includes the trunk lid and fuel door). There are two nice write ups in the archives (probably more, but I remember two) that go pretty much step by step on tracing down the leaking offender. Wild guess.... fuel door actuator. What did I win? FWIW
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The Golden Rule 1984 300SD (bought new, sold it in 1988, bought it back 13 yrs. later) |
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