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#16
11-18-2002, 04:09 PM
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Well, I've changed the hose, the thermostat and the timing is set and it seems to be keeping cooler for the most part, not perfectly constant at full warm up, but cooler than before.
I have noticed the temperature spike a little now and then, but with no particular pattern (it happens when on the highway, at idle, or driving slowly). Overall, it seems to be running cooler, but I suspect the small warm ups might actually be electrical (i.e. something to do with the sensor or wiring) when the gauge goes back down to just above the second notch, it does so in a "jumpy" manner. I'll give this a look and report back, but overall, I'm a little more at ease with the temperature now. Aaron Rochard 1976 230 W115 
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#17
11-20-2002, 04:35 PM
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I definately am convinced now that it's an electrical problem. I was coming back to work from lunch today and the temperature was reading high and out of frustration I gave the instrument cluster a whack (think old school b&w TV styles) and the temperature went back down to where it should be.
Does anyone know where I can buy the original wiring and plugs for the carburetor/choke/temperature sensor area ? Thanks again, AARON. 1976 230 W115
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#18
11-20-2002, 09:01 PM
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swipe your wifes candy thermometer and read coolant temp when temp gauge reads hot.Oh hell buy a new radiator, every new part that we put into our dear old MB's brings it closer to being a lifetime friend.
William Rogers........
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#19
11-20-2002, 10:11 PM
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i would use this as a toy buying excuse. get one of those raytek, non-contact laser aimed infrared thermometers to take readings of everything in your engine compartment!
__________________
joE 1993 300e-2.8 - gone now <sigh> "Do not adjust your mind, it's reality that's malfunctioning" http://banners.wunderground.com/bann...L/Key_West.gif
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#20
11-20-2002, 10:27 PM
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Well, let me buy that temp gizmo (can you measure temp of a Thanksgiving turkey? this could be selling point for my wife...) right after I put the remote tire pressure gizmo from Tirerack (and a laser cannon from Q..., oh, drat, he's dead!).
But seriously, my gauge was jumpy and I thought it was electric until a dealer told me it's most likely steam buildup behid temp sensor (it was).
__________________
1985 190D 2.2l Sold-to Brother-in-law 1996 Mustang 3.8l -"thinks it's a sports car" 1988 Grand Wagoneer - Sold (good home) 1995 Grand Cherokee Ltd -"What was I thinking??!!"
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#21
11-21-2002, 10:09 AM
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you want the raytek minitemp mt4 - going rate for new ones on ebay is $50 - $60 bucks. there are cheaper ones without the laser pointer but i think you would want that feature...
__________________
joE 1993 300e-2.8 - gone now <sigh> "Do not adjust your mind, it's reality that's malfunctioning" http://banners.wunderground.com/bann...L/Key_West.gif
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#22
11-21-2002, 10:50 AM
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overheating
arochard,
Have you checked the surge tank to see that it isn't cracked? I have diesels so I'm assuming you have a surge tank. Often the diesel ones can be cracked around the filler neck and thus the system isn't pressurized so cooling is compromised. Also check the radiator cap for the same reason. Hope this helps. Ben www.reproduce100s.com
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#23
11-21-2002, 04:18 PM
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Sorry, I'm not sure exactly where the surge tank is, I don't believe I have one, I have a 4 cyl gasoline engine, but I have already replaced the rad cap, and don't seem to be losing any coolant.
Aaron. 1976 230 W115
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#24
11-21-2002, 05:51 PM
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Read the temp readings on a therometer to see if the coolant is really accurate. I would check the temp. sensor. by testing it. Also, check the back of your speedometer and see if all connections are right i.e.-ground, loose connections. If those do not work out. Check your heater hoses and heater core. Do you smell any coolant?
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