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  #16  
Old 11-13-2002, 01:47 PM
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The weight that is used in oils is heavily dependent on your local temperature and engine in the vehicle. If you are in a very cold environment or if your car is parked outside, you want a oil that is very flowwable at low temperatures. So you pour in 0W. But, then the higher rating depends on the engine itself. If the engine is high mielage, high stress, and runs hot you may want a 40 or 50 weight. Also, if the engine is a iron block then you might want a heavier oil and if the engine is an Al block then you can use less viscosity because Al dissipates heat more. FSS cars require 0W-40 but according to my service advisor, Mobil 1 10W30 in So Cal can be used in these FSS cars but not for extended drain.

So as a fellow 300E brethren, I'll give you my advice. The 300E likes its 20W50 and 15W50. So, to syn or not to syn, is basically a cost factor. If you are burning oil then you don't want to be burning $5 a quart oil so I would use a dino oil such as Castrol 20W50 or Chevron 20W50. But, because you live in the east coast, you definitely need a 0w or 10w. The 20W does not like flowing in the cold and won't protect your engine as well in the cold. If you want to syn, living in the east coast, use Mobil 1's 0w-40 Euro Formula.

Alright, no more oil discussions. Maybe MercedesShop can make an encyclopedia on motor oil and sell it to the public as the definitive guide.


Last edited by royaiii; 11-13-2002 at 01:52 PM.
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  #17  
Old 11-13-2002, 03:05 PM
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I'm using 5w30 is that fine on 40-50 deg local temp?
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  #18  
Old 11-13-2002, 03:08 PM
Jackd
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Renok7: We have tested some of the Lubro Moly in the past. They are basicaly motor oil additives which are normally in sufficient quantity/proportion in a good motor oil. Some of those additives could very well have negative effects if mixed with newer oil. There are some incompatibilities between different suppliers. Too much of one thing is worst, somtime, than not enough of an other thing. They also use ''solid lubricants'' which, in some engine, can clog some small oil passages over time.
You can not compensate for new oil with ''a miracle in a plastic bottle'' nor band-aid a problem with any additive.
Zeus: yes, synthetic flows better at low temperature. But really, how many -30deg do you have in a year? 3?? 5??.
It always make me laugh (silently) when I read/hear someone saying he has out-smarted the engine manufacturer/engineers, car companies and major oil companies when they say they have found or are using a new product/grade/make which is better than what has been prescribed. Instead of saying ''I have been using product XXX for years with no problem and I have increased MPG by x%), you should say:'' I've been had by a very good marketing campain''.
Remember this guy who sold 6 ''ocean beach front properties in Nevada''
JackD
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  #19  
Old 11-13-2002, 03:19 PM
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Jackd,

What is your opinion on mineral vs synthetic in a TURBO engine? I'm told that the synthetic holds up better to the exreme heat at the turbo. Have you ever come across any evidence to support this notion? Your input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Jeff Pierce
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  #20  
Old 11-14-2002, 08:09 AM
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Most x-w30 oils in the U.S. are too thin! Do NOT use them! There are a few x-w30 oils that MIGHT be OKay, but most are in Europe! The "30" is actually a range, and the gasser oils are on the thin side for fuel economy. This applies to mineral and synthetic oil.
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  #21  
Old 11-18-2002, 09:51 PM
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Hey guys...thanks for your responses...What I've gleaned from your replys is simply that Syns aren't all that they're cracked up to be...I guess that my next oil change will be to Castrol 10W-40 Dino, which ironically is what I had been using since I purchased the car a couple of years ago...sometimes I guess we (I?) over-analyze some things to the point of mass confusion...as always, the KISS principle works after all...thanks, Bill
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  #22  
Old 11-18-2002, 10:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jackd
Zeus: yes, synthetic flows better at low temperature. But really, how many -30deg do you have in a year? 3?? 5??.
In Edmonton, we have many many days of -20 and colder, and quite a few nights where -30 is broken. The only thing the Mobil 1 in my crankcase is hurting is my wallet.

I do agree that synthetic oil is a wast of money, especially among us that change our oil frequently. I got into the sythn habit with racing motorcycles (350F oil temps and higher...) and just can't shake the addiction....
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  #23  
Old 11-24-2002, 06:47 PM
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which oil?

The best treatment is to change it and filter every 3000 miles. Use a premium 10W30 winter in North Carolina, 20W50 summer.

Buying synthetic and then running it 10,000 miles to 'save money' is not a good idea. The Flexible Service Systems (FSS) are there because the car manufacturer gets 'dinged' by the EPA and tree huggers for the 'waste generated' by the car from oil changes hence the push for very long intervals--and remember they want you to have to buy a new car sooner-and your used one to be junked and not go to me in great condition. So long as it makes the warranty period, and the lease ending resale is not reduced, they are happy
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  #24  
Old 11-24-2002, 07:05 PM
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Keybowers...10W-30? not 10W-40?...again, winters are pretty mild here...rarely in the teens...why??? I change the oil every 3-3500 miles...am I ok w/40? thanks, Bill
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  #25  
Old 11-24-2002, 09:12 PM
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10W30 & 20W50 are very stable oil viscosities. 5W30 and 10W40 are less stable, because of the wider viscosity range. (20W50 has a wide range, too, but starts out thicker and its Okay). Oil shears down as it ages, and this is mostly what your oiil filter filters out.

Check out the Chevron Delo 15W40 or Mobil Delvac 1300S 15W40 "universal grades". They are certified for use in big rig trucks and cars and are relatively stable oils with excellent additive packages. If I didn't use synthetic , I'd use one of those oils. Wal Mart sells it for $5.88/gal all day every day.

-brian

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