Synthetic for 300E? Please read...used search...need input from the PROFESSIONALS!!NA
 

OK...I searched pretty extensively and came out of it more confused than when I started...'90 300E, 148k miles, very well maintained (with Dino) since birth, no leaks, excellent compression - and as a friend described it - a "new" 12 year old car. As many members here do, I pamper my car and don't even want to consider anything that could possibly shorten it's lifespan. I am considering going to a synthetic oil. I live on the NC coast and temps only occasionally dip into the teens, but overall mild temps. Experience preferred, opinions accepted. Should I change to synthetic? If so, what brand? What weight? Should I stay with Dino? I need some experienced advice and look forward to input from the pros...Thanks in advance, Bill

oil change
 

Call me old fashioned but, if you change the oil every 3000-5000 then I would go with a Castrol 10w40 Dino and a new filter everytime. My folks live in Wilmington and it has worked for them so far.
martin

We use Rottella 15/40 year round. No problems. We use Mobil 1 in the FSS cars.


Joe

Dino oil is fine with frequent changes. Just use 40 or 50 weight multi-viscosity variations and avoid any of the 30 weight stuff.

I've used Mobil 1 in my Mercedes cars for the last 18 years. I've used 15W-50 Mobil 1 in my '91 300E since the first oil change and that's what I'll keep on using. Since I do my own oil changes, cost isn't a factor for me.

BTW, it's my understanding that the 0W-40 oil now used in all Mercedes cars with the FSS system was originally developed for Porsche as the oil used in cars leaving the factory. When they first started using that oil it wasn't available in the US. I asked a Porsche owner what oil Porsche recommended as a replacement and was told it was 15W-50 Mobil 1.

148K miles, high compression and no leaks! Answer is simple. Continue doing what you're doing. Why change?

I'm not a PRO but...I switched to synthetic a while ago. No problems with leaks, etc. I now use Mobil 1. 280,000 Kms and going strong. From everything I have learned about using synthetic in an older car it seems the major factors are (Larry can correct me here if I'm wrong) -

1 - Developing leaks from older seals which may not be able to seal properly with synthetic. Basically a small gamble. I had no problems though.

2 - Synthetic 'cleans' up older, hardened oil deposits which can cause leaks, blockage. I think this one is a bit of a stretch, again I've had no problems here.

3 - Once you switch, stay with synthetic. I've heard this confirmed everywhere.

As some people have already stated, if your car is fine with dino, why not keep it that way? I changed due to the extreme temps we get up here - from +30C to -40C and colder in the winter. The main reason for me was that synthetic retains it viscosity at lower temps while dino oil really gets thick and sluggish in colder temps. I have noticed a big difference in winter cold starts with the synthetic.

Kendall
 

Hi you all

I have a 95-E320 with 167k-km (about 100k miles), new to me. The oil question interests me. I enquired towards synthetic vrs non-synthetic at my most recent trip to the local dealer. His statement, if its been running non-synthetic, stick with it otherwise it will leak. Interesting statement.

Regarding brands, I have a ford F250 diesel that I have been using Kendel 15W-40 because with each engine oil change, they will analysis the oil for next to nothing. Can this be used in the mercedes?

I agree with those that are advising you to stay with Dino.

Just change your oil frequently, and change it hot.

I use a Mercedes technician that has received rave reviews from members on this site. He has worked at Mercedes dealers in Europe, South Africa, South American, and Beverly Hills for almost 35 years, and has owned his own shop for the last 5 years.

He advised me to not use synthetic because in his opinion it wouldn't make a difference. He has rebuilt thousands of engines over his lifetime, and I repeat thousands of engines, and not one engine breakdown was caused by the failure of the oil.

You have been asking for a professional opinion. I don't know if I qualify after having spent only 26 years with a major oil company involved in the lubricating oil business blending/ testing/ comparing/analysing/torturing/nursing/developing oils for different application (including engines) in conjunction with major engine manufacturers.
Stick with a well respected mineral based oil brand. Use the recommended grade for the climate you're in, change you oil at or before the engine manufacturers interval recommendations.
Don't switch to synthetic. You don't need it if you follow the above. Don't spend more or more expensive oils, they are not worth it, don't spend a dime on any miracles in a bottles, called additives. Always fully warm the engine. Short trips are killers for the oil. Keep the oil level at the proper level.......and you'll have an happy life.
JackD

Jackd, I feel like an idiot, but are mineral based oils what we call dino oil?

Suginami: Don't worry, the only real idiots are those who
a) never change their mind
b) never ask questions.
Dino oil = mineral oil
The expression ''Dino oil'' come from the belief that decomposed dinosaurs are the source of crude oil.
In fact, crude oil is the result of decomposition, under extreme pressures and times of any carbon based substances (vegetal & animal). The expression ''mineral oil'' is not more exact or precise. It really should be called ''hydro-carbon'' based oils.
Synthetic oils are made from man-made polymers not found in nature. Although most synthetics oils are good quality products, they do not deliver, in extended/controled tests and in real life situation most of the benefits their followers are claiming.
Why would I pay for a $5,000 Gucci watch when a Timex will keep accurate time just the same. But I agree, a Gucci looks better and feels better.
jackD

I personnally swear by Lubro Moly. Better yet it pays for itself in better fuel economy.

http://www.forparts.com/fluids.htm

I swear an oil thread like this never fails to replicate itself.......
You said it yourself

"OK...I searched pretty extensively and came out of it more confused than when I started...".

This was pretty much my conclusion and the reason I have chosen to go it alone, read my manufacturers manual, do some amateur testing myself and come to my own conclusion on oil. I suggest you do the same because the arguments put forward will just continue to confuse you, there is very little consensus except maybe staying away from 30 weight oils;)

Jackd -

Good post! I have one question for you though...as a fellow Canadian, do you not notice a difference in viscosity at lower temps (e.g. -30C) between "dino" oil and synthetics?

I think I missed something Why do i need to stay away from 30 w oil?Does this apply in synthetic as well.