My keys stuck in the ignition. I have gotten it in the 1 position and have put 2 alan keys in both holes. I already have a new tumbler so I can see the black thing I'm supposed to push down on w/ the alan key in order to get the tumbler out. I've tried pushing on the black thing and pulling out the tumbler but it won't come out. I've searched the archives but I couldn't find anyone w/ the same problem. Anyone know what could be wrong? Thanks.

__________________
90 560SEL
H&R springs
17" Alba Frontiers
Cross drilled rotors
Magnaflow Cat
European Headlights
WALD front bumper
Keyless Entry
Burlwood shiftknob
Clear corners, taillights
Limo tint
2 JL 12W6's, JBL BP1200.1, Pioneer P8200R

1. A modified coat hanger works well too, sand the ends to about 20 degrees outwards it’s also the same diameter as the Mercedes tool advised to be use.

2 I think the 20 degrees is the main point here because you are not pushing it back you are pushing it in like squeezing/pinching it in to release it.

Thai GI sends…

__________________
GI but not GI Joe
They call me "The Thai GI"
Thai in the US Arsenal

I changed the tumbler on my 1991 300CE, W124 and yours might be similar. I found a post that described making the tool to push into the two holes. Coat hanger wire worked perfectly. Use 300mm length of wire. Make two bends 20mm apart to form a "U". Grind the tips to a 70 degree, inside angle. Like making a large staple. The angle is important as you can see when the tool is applied to your new tumbler. Mine took a hard push on the tool and lots of jiggling. As other posts have warned, keep the key in position "1". Getting it stuck in any other position is not good.


Good Luck,


glenmore

Mike,

If I read your email; correvtly, your key is stuck in the ignition switch and you can't get it out to remove the ignition swtch. Is this correct? If it is, I have a suggestion based a key/ignition switch problem I had with my 123 Diesel.

I had just the opposite probelm, my key would go in but not turn enogh to start the engine. I removed the switch and washed out the tunbler with a degreaser and poof! everything was fine.

Based on my problem, I believe that your switch is just so dirty inside that the key can't be removed. Therefore, I suggest that you give it a good spray with something like WD-40 and work the key a little and then see if it will come out.

You might also find that by washing the tumblers the old lock will work again.

Hope this help!!

Ben

Mike,

If I read your email; correvtly, your key is stuck in the ignition switch and you can't get it out to remove the ignition swtch. Is this correct? If it is, I have a suggestion based a key/ignition switch problem I had with my 123 Diesel.

I had just the opposite probelm, my key would go in but not turn enough to start the engine. I removed the switch and washed out the tumbler with a degreaser and poof! everything was fine.

Based on my problem, I believe that your switch is just so dirty inside that the key can't be removed. Therefore, I suggest that you give it a good spray with something like WD-40 and work the key a little and then see if it will come out.

You might also find that by washing the tumblers the old lock will work again.

Hope this help!!

Ben

Mike, you need to unscrew the the black collar around the tumbler in order to remove it. With the tool correctly installed, it simply unscrews ( although you may need to use pliers to get it loose ). After re-installing the new one, just tighten the collar as far as it will go by hand, remove the tool, and turn the collar counter-clockwise until it locks. Don't waste your time trying to clean anything in an attempt to fix it. Anyone who has ever had to replace a tumbler without being able to insert the key and turning it, would agree that it's not much fun. Good luck

Do not take the key out!!!! Get the tmbler out to inspect first. You must have the key in to get the tumbler out and if it is broken, you may never get it back in!!!! Removing tumbler with key in is about 10 minutes. Dealer quoted me 10 hours labor if the key cannot get in!!!! there is 'space metal' in there.

Here is procedure I copied from my service manual -- take a look at the other posts on the subject. This is for a W124, don't know particular differences about an S class:

If you can get the tumbler to position “1” the procedure to remove is simple, with a Key intact. If you are stuck in “1” DON”T MOVE IT!!! May be tough with a broken key in there (little or nothing to pull on) but can be done. I recently had my tumbler break. Those suckers are tough to drill out in order to keep the crooks out! Drilling is an ordeal. After about half an hour of finessing, I got mine to "1" and removed it quite easily with directions from the service Manual using "Self Made Tool" as follows (and I quote, with annotations.) It came out in 4 pieces. I got a new tumbler, including a key, to match my VIN and the other locks in the car for about $75 from Caliber Motors in CA. Order your new stuff now, whether you are drilling or removing, you'll need it. It takes about three days.

1) Remove cover (black plastic one around key area, lift carefully from Steering column side)
2) Turn Key to “1”
3) Introduce releasing wire [Note:] through bores (two little holes in the silver part of the assembly) in the locking cylinder. Then push down on releasing wire and unlock the locking detents by overcoming the resilient resistance. (Push on that wire, hard, you may or may not feel a ‘pop’ and then pull in the cylinder at the same time!)
4) Remove Locking Cylinder including covering cap from steering lock by means of ignition key (or a hook you might have to make to get a purchase on the thing. Since you don’t have a full key in there, you may be able to get the cap off first, and then get a tool, like a needle nose vice grip, on the tumbler.)
5) Remove releasing wire from locking cylinder. Turn ignition key to “0” and pull off.
6) Remove cylinder from Covering (black) cap. (Keep this cap, order a new one if it is damaged)
Note: the releasing wire of 2 mm steel wire is self made according to the specified dimensions. Straight length of wire = 300 mm. (Make two bends 20 mm apart to form a ‘U’. Grind the tips to a 70 degree angle, inside angle (the tips of the angle grinds are on the outside of the ‘U’)(Stiff, but not too fat coat hanger wire might just work. If not, get some good stiff wire.)(Start car carefully with a screwdriver while the thing is off. DO NOT break anyting in there as you will have more to fix)

Installation (Here I am not direct quoting)
1) Insert Cylinder, make sure the elevated ridge lines up with the housing (about 10 o’clock)(it’s a good idea to lube all the parts on the car and cylinder while you have it open.)
2)Place black covering cap on and line up the little notch to the left (about 9:30)
3) Turn locking cylinder to “1”, then force cap and cylinder into steering lock while making sure that both parts are engaging. (Might have to wiggle the whole thing a bit while you push)(The key should point to the “1” notch on the black cap to indicate you are in alignment)
4) Make sure it all works
5) Install plastic cover

__________________
David
1986 300E Anthracite + ECodes + MB Mileage Award

Thanks for the reply's. I've tried everything and it still won't come out. I towed it to the dealer and he said it was frozen and in order to drill it out they would break some electrical parts bringing the total to $465! Should I tow it back and try it myself?

__________________
90 560SEL
H&R springs
17" Alba Frontiers
Cross drilled rotors
Magnaflow Cat
European Headlights
WALD front bumper
Keyless Entry
Burlwood shiftknob
Clear corners, taillights
Limo tint
2 JL 12W6's, JBL BP1200.1, Pioneer P8200R

If you cannot get it out and the dealer cannot either, I think you are sunk and have to go the drill/dismantle rout. Check other postings on this subject, it's not easy to get out.

__________________
David
1986 300E Anthracite + ECodes + MB Mileage Award

If the holes line up so you can get the coat hanger tool in, it will come out. It does take some wiggling and jiggling, and vibrating. Flushing it with lots of WD-40 helps a lot.

So, after 3 hrs, how is the black plastic cover around key area removed on an 86 300SDL? I tried prying on right side by vent and lifted tabs and it just bends. I know it will break in half if I just keep lifting. Three days is too long.

__________________
'96 C220 138,000mi, '95 E300D 239,000 mi., '87 300TD 214,000mi '88 6.2 Turbo Diesel Chevy Conversion Van 253,000 mi.

Try this link.


Ignition Cylinder Tumbler replacement + Key issues; mixed diesel/gas
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/142232-ignition-cylinder-tumbler-replacement%3B-mixed-diesel-gas.html#post1065596





.

__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
asemastermechanic@juno.com

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

https://www.boldegoist.com/

I ended up having to drill the tumbler out of my 89 300SE. If you end up going that route, it is a pain but you can do it. If you need detailed instructions, let me know and I'll send them to you. Also, whether you end up drilling it out or you get it to come out, order your new parts today so you'll have them to install. Good luck,
JD

Please post detailed instructions here.