As I have a v--e--r--y slow 260E, does that mean I can skip registration????
But I'll have to register my Vette
And by the way, I think I'll try some duralube in my Benz and see if it makes it faster than the Vette.
JackD

LOL....LOL...LOL..

Jack, next time you are in So Cal, you better look me up! We think a lot alike.

And for all the Canadians here, a big hello!

My Father was born in a small town about 180 miles north of Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, in 1914 and is alive and well. I was born in Santa Monica, California, "Thank"s Dad".

I have made many trips to Canada, family, friends, work, etc. I love it!

My fear is one day I may not return home.

Jack, what's up with the new cars running the 5-20 oil?

Oh Man, I feel at home here!

__________________
Tim
300CE
280SE 4.5
Sandals (size 11)

Wow this thread sure has evolved!

Let me futher lead us off topic-

I do enjoy the fine weather in LA but we shouldn't feel guilty! What about the traffic? What about the INSANE cost of housing? What about our soft economy (in LA realtively speaking)? What about the Parking NAZIs!?!?

I think it all evens out in the end.

Oh but we do have an exceptional used car market. But it's still not enough to make me feel guilty!

Being a chemical engineer and working for Mobil Oil, it is not possible for PTFE to bond to metal or any moving parts unless the temperature of the metal exceeds 800 degrees. Also, PTFE will not bond in presence of oil, needs to be generally oil free.
Take an example of teflon coated pans for instance, PTFE is bonded to the metal, when the metal is at elevated temperatures. These engines are way below that.
Also, have you tried to use metal spoon on a teflon pan? what do you think happens in an engine?
If your engine gets to that temperature, you engine shot.
So, where does this suspended particles of PTFE go, they are basiclaly fitered out, clogging up your oil filter.
So, folks this PTFE is a gimmick.
If you use conventional oil or synthetic, regular oil changes is all that needs to be done.
This is not my opinion but a fact.

Endeavor: Thanks for your support against additives.
Now if you could only try and convince my friend Moedip on the Duralube subject.
JackD

Duralube, I believe is PTFE particles in suspension. This is the same story as Slick 50. The only one that I know of has some merit is called Prolong. It is an additive that is not suspended and it is not PTFE. It is a homogenous mixture of friction reducing additives that are not micro particles, so the additive has no chance in getting filtered out.
I still recommend that change the oil every 3 months or 3000 miles and your engine wil be in great shape.
See in engine oil what wears out with time is generally the additives that are used.
Synthetic is better yet except for the cost. I would suggest Synthetic only if you change the oil say every 7000 miles.
I simply use 20W-50 weight oil in summer and 10W-40 in winter.
I use it in my Porsche, BMW and Mercedes.
Another better engine oil which is Synthetic is Amsoil which is almost loaded with anti friction additives but the oil is expensive, they were the first who developed synthetic oil. this oil is used generally in race cars or heavy duty daily use where ultimate protection is required.

Prolong, like most other ''miracle additive'' manufacturers have been sues (and lost) by the Federal Trade Commission for false marketing and advertizing statements and unproven claims. Prolog contains the same base additive as Duralube and MotorUp (probably others) which is a chlorinated mixture of kerosene (up to 80% kerosene) and detergents.
Check this link:
http://www.greasedlightning.com.au/information/chlorine.htm
JackD