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  #1  
Old 09-04-1999, 09:35 PM
benzjunkie
 
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Calgary, Ab, Canada
Posts: 34
On my 1990 300TE 4Matic I have been trying to remove the rotor arm drive sleeve so I can replace the timing cover seal. The drive sleeve is now half removed. The remaining cylindrical part is seized in the end of the camshaft. It is rusty all around it. Does this sleeve after removing the securing bolt supposed to just pull out or twist out? It looks like someone tried to remove it prior to my ownership and it was 90% broken (cracked). Will I have to remove the cam to remove this remaining piece or should I try to drill it out? Is this a common problem?

Thanks,

Ian
  #2  
Old 09-05-1999, 12:34 AM
MB Medic
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
The sleave must come straight out, as it is aligned to the camshaft with a keyway. I have seen the rotor drive piece brake during use, it's not common but it does happen.
I would suggest a good penetrating lube to be applied, and some gentle "tapping" to the piece from different angles. A very good product for rusted parts is Howes' Mirical Lubricator, I swear by it, but it may be hard to find. Drilling is not an option as you will damage the keyway. Be patient, some minor heat from a propane torch might help also, when the upper cover is off of course.
Hope this helps.

------------------
MB Medic
14 year MB tech
7 year shop foreman @ independent MB/Volvo shop
  #3  
Old 09-06-1999, 02:26 AM
benzjunkie
 
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Calgary, Ab, Canada
Posts: 34
Thanks MB Medic. I tried some rust dissolver and a propane torch today but it won't budge. I don't have any edge to grab either. I guess the years of corrosion have really seized it. I may have to remove the camshaft. Can this be done without removing the timing chain completely? I would rather not get myself into deeper trouble. Anyone else got any ideas?

TIA


------------------
Ian Read
90 300TE4MATIC (124)
79 300SD (116)

  #4  
Old 09-06-1999, 01:43 PM
metricman
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
after soaking with a good penetrating lube, a gentle prying from behind with a screwdriver on each still does not pop the sleeve out, try to gently tap the sleeve in a clockwise/counterclockwise direction. A very light tap once in each direction. Just a little tap becasue there is a pin that keeps it from spinning. They do not get crossthreaded, just gummed up. Be patient, it will come out....

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  #5  
Old 09-06-1999, 11:19 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Suwanee, GA, USA
Posts: 4,712
I have had this before. Do not worry about hurting the rotor stand . Grab it with locking pliers and turn left to right while pulling out. It will eventually come out. Once out, use some scotch brite in the hole to take out the rust.



------------------
Benzmac:
ASE CERTIFIED MASTER AUTO TECHNICIAN
SERVICE MANAGER FOR 14 BAY FACILITY
MERCEDES SPECIALIST 8 YRS
PARTNER IN MERCEDESSHOP.COM


  #6  
Old 09-07-1999, 12:03 AM
benzjunkie
 
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Calgary, Ab, Canada
Posts: 34
Success!! I went out and bought some penetrating fluid called "Moovit" which is available in Canada. I couldn't find the Howes Miracle Lub except at www.gethowes.com. About 10 minutes later I tried tapping the stubborn sleeve again and voila, I saw movement! It wasn't easy getting it out since I didn't have any flange to grip so I inserted an hex key into the hole where the screw goes and pulled while forcing the key sideways. It came out. I have now got every thing back together except I'll need a new part before the distributor goes back on.

My last question. Should I put some copper type antiseize compound in the cam before I finish the job?
Your comments instilled patience into me when I need it the most.
Thanks to you all for your help.
Now to the next job: Replace the diaphragm and valves in the vacuum pump in my '79 300SD 116. Be prepared I may need help again.


------------------
Ian Read
90 300TE4MATIC (124)
79 300SD (116)

  #7  
Old 09-07-1999, 10:23 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Suwanee, GA, USA
Posts: 4,712
A littttttle bit will be OK. Remember that the copper is a conductor of elec. and if it enters the dist. cap it will cause running problems.

------------------
Benzmac:
ASE CERTIFIED MASTER AUTO TECHNICIAN
SERVICE MANAGER FOR 14 BAY FACILITY
MERCEDES SPECIALIST 8 YRS
PARTNER IN MERCEDESSHOP.COM


  #8  
Old 09-09-1999, 12:30 PM
benzjunkie
 
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Calgary, Ab, Canada
Posts: 34
Your copper comment noted. I still haven't finished the job. The new sleeve was machined wrong. The key notch was 90 degrees out of place, the car wouldn't start. And to make the job even more expensive I found that my distributor cap was cracked all around the centre pole. I have no idea what caused that. I had the water pump and fan spindle bearing bracket replaced in January by an "experienced" local Mercedes repair shop. When it rains it pours around me. I guess that is expected here on the wet Westcoast of BC. Today I hope to receive the second sleeve, shipped from Toronto. I'll let you all know if all goes well.

------------------
Ian Read
90 300TE4MATIC (124)
79 300SD (116)


  #9  
Old 09-12-1999, 05:03 AM
benzjunkie
 
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Calgary, Ab, Canada
Posts: 34
The car is finally running again. Case closed.

------------------
Ian Read
90 300TE4MATIC (124)
79 300SD (116)


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