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#16
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I presume you have checked the throttle position switch? Check the resistance of it (it's located on the engine near the throttle mechanism).
Or you can check it like this (if you have an auto): Drive along with gearbox in '3' position. When off the throttle, and you change the gears down into '2' (don't do at high speed! <30 mph) it will bang into 2nd gear and the revs come up immediately. When on the throttle (even just a little) and you change down into '2', it will not bang down - you have to increase the revs yourself and then 2nd gear will eventually engage. If you don't get these 2 very different behaviours, your switch isn't working.
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190E's: 2.5-16v 1990 90,000m Astral Silver 2.0E 8v 1986 107,000m Black 2nd owner http://www.maylane.demon.co.uk/190esmall.jpghttp://www.maylane.demon.co.uk/190esmall2.jpg |
#17
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XP, I saw your post on the 190 Rev page.
You need to check the fuel pressure at the distributor. This is very essential, since the Bosch fuel system works with pressure. Once the pressure is checked, if it is not up to spec, you need to look at the fuel accumulator, and fuel pumps(s). If pressure is within spec, you need to properly adjust the EHA. You probably already played with this. This is a no-no. Do a search on EHA to find the proper procedure to adjust this. Then, check the sensors: - coolant sensors ( maybe two or three in the 190..Don't remember) - check the TPS (throttle position sensor) - check for a loose OVP.. if you see lights on the dash light up during acceleration or hesitation - and PLEASE replace the ignition cap, rotor, plugs (use copper plugs ONLY), and ignition wires if needed. - Also, don't forget the fuel filter and some injection cleaner while you are at it. Once this is done, please advise us. This is your mission... SMILES will follow...
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99 C230K Sport 87 300SDL 81 300SD |
#18
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Fixed
Well my car is finally fixed. It turned out to be one of the fuel pumps, and the idle mixture was way off. Simply adjusted it with a long screwdriver type tool until it was right. Took a while as we had to keep pulling over to the side of the road to make adjustments, then drive a little while to see if all hesitations were gone.
Hopefully you can use this imformation to find the cause of your problem, as i think it would be the same. Mike |
#19
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Yes , Mike has a point with ignition parts . They might look fine but aren't able to perform under load . Make certain you have the proper sparkplugs (My jobber tried to sell me the platinum plugs also)and the cap rotor and wires are good . If the car is running right the plugs should have a dark red or tan colour to them , not wet , oily or black . Good luck .
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Democracy dies in darkness, you have to kick at the darkness till it bleeds daylight |
#20
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Thanx a lot for all the help guys.
This upcoming week I will be ordering a new distributor cap, rotor arm and new spark plugs, I do have platinums in right now, but I have heard many different things when it comes to plugs, it's my understanding that platinums have a resistor in them which is not needed, so I will get the right ones this time. I managed to get my car running the same as it was before the new timing chain, but now I have a different problem ontop of the hesitation. When in drive and stopped, my economy needle goes up about 1/5 of the way, it always stayed on the very bottom, it still does when in Park or neutral, but any other gear it will go up 1/5 of the way, higher when car is warming up, can any suggest what this could be and how it can be corrected? I started playing with the adjusting wheel on the idle control valve, before it would control what the idle speed was, but this time it does not do anything, maybe I gotta turn it some more, but my idle is exactly where it's supposed to be except for the economy needle. Thanx again, this is a great forum. XP |
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