I used to be a battery snob...
 

My C230's battery is getting on in age. I had it recharged, but I know it's life is limited. Five years ain't bad, considering the cold weather torture test I've given it on occasion.

Well, I ALWAYS buy the MB brand battery. Nuthin' but the best, right?

Hey! Interstate sells the same battery (the honkin' big battery) with the same CCA specs and longer warranty for about half the cost.

The recent battery thread got me to thinking about this. While I don't mind paying for quality, I think that the "replacement" battery market is highly competitive and has a lot to offer with regards to performance and value.

Serves me right for not shopping around all these years...

My battery failed me on Chrismass day in 1996. I was 250 miles from home in a small village, north of Quebec City.
The only battery available locally was from a remote service station, was not of the exact size but fitted in the tray.
It was a NAPA battery.
It is still in the car and had not caused me any problem in almost 6 years.
Why pay for a high price MB battery???
jackD

I run Optima gel-cells in my suburban and in my boat but the Interstate is whats in my Benz.

It's all in the amps....
 

Mercedes batteries have amps designed for the mercedes electrical system. Just as the car is not "insinc" if you run green antifreeze, it is not performing correctly without a properly amped battery. Mercedes amps are heavier that regular amps, meaning they have more electrons in the outer shells. Sure, your car may start ok and appear to run fine on any old battery. But the real measure is the quality of electricity you're getting from it. This is most noticeable in the quality of light from the lamps all over the car. Bosch systems are designed to operated on Bosch amps. Not providing that quality of current is robbing your car, and you, of the ultimate driving experience!! And whatever you do, don't use a Japanese battery!! They're not even the same voltage!!!

Quality of electrons? Huh? I'm no PhD of physics (JCE..) but I have a good rudimentary knowledge of electricity.

Amps = Watts/Volts. Suppose you have a circuit that requires 1200 watts. With a 120 volt system, you require a 10 amp circuit.

As long as the battery is the correct voltage, physical size, and capable of "pulling" enough amps, I have no idea of why it wouldn't work, and work well.

When I refer to battery quality, I am thinking of reliability, service life, and cold start ability.

I was not aware that there was special Mercedes-quality electricity...

Yikes!

I just "found" a Yokohama battery in my car and it has 1998 printed on the top...:D

I guess the sublimal message in this thread is "to each, his own"...;)

Right, and sadly this is a little known fact. Back in 1929, at the World Electrical Congress in Geneva, an agreed upon standard was created for electrical measurement. Although Germany signed the agreement, Hitler decided to make German amps more "potent", part of his plan for world domination. This wasn't discovered until after WWII and by that time all German industry was based on the principal that "amps = pressure, or force" and the more, the better. This is one reason for the difference in voltages in Europe. More volts = more pressure, or amps. The Canadian decision to adopt 247 volts was based on this principal. While America was happy with it weaker amps implemented by Jonathan Fender, Germany was cheating with the Humbucker amps. ( The Marshall amp didn't come along untill later, after the occupation of Japan). That, in a nutshell is the story of the Powver Amp, as it is still known today. Think about this, why do American electric products fail so often compared to German products? It's all in the power, or "amps". Hope this helps to clear things up!

I've been running a Chinese battery in my German MB but an hour after starting it's hungry for power.

I should have read the first post closer...

Battery
 

Would two Die-Hard batteries in parallel equal a Mercedes battery? I have one in my W124 and it is doing fine.

I have seen battery's last for

LOL.....good rule of thumb is, ......after 3 or 4 years, if it hick-ups, Get a new one!

Some of my cars have 4 to 6 year old batteries, but I keep them up on trickle chargers, and they seem to perform well.

This is OK when you only drive a car every other month.

If it is your daily driver, just get a fresh new battery every 3 to 4 years, and if you are lucky, you won't get stuck with a dead one!

Check your spare tire, and jack, as well.

Fill the spare tire with 40lbs of air, and check it every time you service the car.

It's so, easy to do at home, but so hard to understand, why you don't have it on the road, when you need it.

Just say, "Happy Holidays, to Me" and buy a new Battery!

It will make you feel all Good Inside!

C'mon Cap'n ... that is some impressive German standard automotive electrical knowledge, but please tell me you're joking.:rolleyes:

I've had a Sears Diehard in mine for I don't know how long (at least 4 years) and it still cranks with the best of them.

My owner's manual says nothing about MB "quality of electrons" and any must-use batteries. :p

blackmercedes said:

Me too

:cool:

Just remember the Cap'n has a hard time with "German food"

Back off!

Marshal Amps
 

Actually, Marshal amps are every bit as powerful as German amps, but the coating is not as smooth. This is caused by using more rebellious electrons, and as a result Marshal amps are a bit fuzzier than other kinds.

Certain circumstances can increase this fuzziness, particularly the proximity of Fenders. This is known as the Hendrix effect and is measured in nano-Jimis.

Have a nice day!